https://www.totaltools.com.au/100385...press-zqj4132k
scottar im thinking of getting this as sick and tired of drilling things using multigrips or standing on it with my thongs lol
always drilling out bushings in car parts and other randoms stuff
Yeah just a few more parts than piece it all together Cat than hope it passes a good weight with the blue slip inspector, i will be happy once im on the water wish there were an easier way than removing all that fairing on the boat that is going to kill me
Lol i really dislike drilling steel Scott i dont have the patients i use to rev the crap out of the drill thinking the fast it spun the quicker it drilled a hole lol i bought a couple drill bits that are 180mm long 5mm or six mm and a 12mm cost a lot of money on ebay but even more so if i bought them from bunnings like $40 each bought this length so i can clamp down the tow hitch and just drill right thru the tow hitch than thru top and bottom drawbar thickness in one go so no ...... it up with crooked holes top and bottom
i have found the bigger the drill bit the slower u go but also the more bite those big drill bits take out each turn it almost just peels away at the steel where as a little drill bit will produce tiny sand size like shavings
i'll enjoy drilling the m24 hole should be piss easy but these 12mm holes are going to do my head in
https://www.totaltools.com.au/100385...press-zqj4132k
scottar im thinking of getting this as sick and tired of drilling things using multigrips or standing on it with my thongs lol
always drilling out bushings in car parts and other randoms stuff
Steve i have a old crappy ryobi drill press works a dream 50 seconds to drill a 12mm hole thru 10mm steel but u cant always use one when u need to drill a hole
In my case if i pulled my top and bottom plate off and drilled them and my drawbar seperatly if im off 1-2mm it may not all line up and i've just screwed up $100 worth of steel and few hours work
If i clamp all my trailer together and drill right thru in one go thru all the layers than shes done
Sent from my SM-G900I using Ausfish mobile app
Decent press makes a big difference. Radial drill is better still but a bit of overkill for a home workshop.Originally Posted by stevej
They start around 500 and go up from there the 899-999 seems to be a good midway point
Everything seems beefier
Special hubs are here chinese bearings tho, these are the special velox beehive disc the part around the bolts is 140mm all other disc are 150mm
Attachment 120730Attachment 120731
Sent from my SM-G900I using Ausfish mobile app
i donno if im missing anything just went thru a ton of receipts as i keep receipts for almost everything and i went thru my emails of purchased items on ebay for the trailer and came out with this spread sheet
4 springs $157
2 axles $153.35
front axle brake mounts $27
2x trailer chains $43
100mm u bolt $15.95
rear axle lazy hubs $99.95
aluminium $948.70
cross member u bolts $38.89
bolts from a old mate $20
original drawbar $82
new drawbar $85
trailer hitch kit $
velox hubs $248.30
mudguards $140
steel $119.70
axle u bolts 39mm $30
old spring hanger steel $88
trailer has come in at $2296.84 thought i had spent a lot more than that
still need to galvanize the steel
buy winch post and winch
buy lights and side markers
buy various bolts
buy treated pine sleepers for bunks
buy brakes
it should come in at under $3000 for the full trailer build and possibly registration included, it has taking around the 12 months to build
I started off with a cheap drill press under $100 I gave it a hard time and went alright. One day I saw a fairly large 13 speed with a Morse taper on market place for $120 and will chew through anything just keep a look out or maybe a wanted add.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Drill bits came yesterday from c-tool i will start installing the new drawbar soon as weather cools down
Also yesterday picked up 1 meter of 40x10mm for the spring hanger u bolt bracket just need to find and order a 16-17mm drill bit for the u bolt holes thru the flat bar
These drill bits are 6mm pilot hole 12mm main bolt hole for the trailer
Do u guys think for the Y neck of the drawbar meating my ipper and lower plate i could use 2 or 3 12mm bolts or should i really step that up to 2x m24 high tensile bolts? Will need to buy a 25-26mm drill bit if i go that optionAttachment 120743
Sent from my SM-G900I using Ausfish mobile app
I'm no engineer Gazza but I've never seen a M24 bolt on a boat trailer. Not even ones that carry a whole heap more weight than yours will.
Yeah I'm not sure what size to make the bolt its pretty much 2 bolts that will be pulling the whole trailer and boat these bolts go thru the top Y plate and bottom plate with the drawbar in between the plates so the only thing taking all that load will be those two bolts, i need to buy a 17mm drill bit for the u bolts on spring hanger i may reuse that drill bit and make those two bolts 16mm
The pin that holds the towbar in is only about 13mm or so, lots of old tilt trailers only had a couple of 1/2" bolts in the tilt hinge, never saw one broken in decades of use, even the bolts that hold the coupling on are 12mm at best.
Yeah true but your talking 4x 12mm or 1/2" bolts holding the coupling on i donno what the breaking strain of those 4 would be converted into 2 bolts
Sent from my SM-G900I using Ausfish mobile app
So there are no bolts going from one beam - through the drawbar and into the other beam?
EZ Loader.jpg
I'll get some pics this afternoon when i start working on the trailer, i can drill bolts thry the sides but it willl be a prick of a job as i drill the left side i beam than when the drill hits the drawbar the i beam hole is likely to oval shape or the drill wonder due to the soft aluminium
Sent from my SM-G900I using Ausfish mobile app
Posting Permissions