Reply With QuoteIf the grommet doesnt have slits in I would cut and splice the cable. I try to avoid having any plug and socket assemblies in the tube between the boat and the engine. They are a bit prone to water damage.
I just purchased a complete nmea2000 kit. Etec interface, starter kit and memory module. Yousers, was that expensive !!
now for my next hurdle. How do i pass the interface cable through the rubber grommet on the outboard body? I have only ever seen one posting and the solution was a notch in the grommet. Anyone else care to suggest a a way?
Do i have to disassemble the plastic body casing to free the grommet and route the cable to the connector?
If the grommet doesnt have slits in I would cut and splice the cable. I try to avoid having any plug and socket assemblies in the tube between the boat and the engine. They are a bit prone to water damage.
In my opinion, this is a failing of the OEM to even ask what options on the motor i may want. Its so flaming easy to fit when rigging everything else. It looks like a major job now.
i know what the response will be if pressed, " its a standard package". Same as i wasnt asked what guages Would want. You know TELWATER and JV, i may have been prepared to pay more !
Roll on drive by wire i say, the etec G2 is how all outboard rigging should be done. Fuel line, powercables and control cable, nothing else REQUIRED
In the year 2525, if i am still alive, i may find.............
I may need to buy some heatshrink and borrow a soldering iron, and its only 4 wires.
thanks for that idea, it seems the only viable one at the moment.
Finally found the rigging PDF and it says to remove the bottom engine covers and air filter cover. I guess thats for the cable routing.
so off to my second home to buy more tools. ( Bunnings, and isnt that where all men are happy?)
If your buying heatshrink buy Dual Wall, it has a glue on the inner wall which works much better. Most heat shrinks aren't waterproof. I usually will use some normal heatshrink first followed by the dual wall, only because if you ever have to get back into your joints you'll find it easier to get to.
Otherwise known as The Big green Mens' ShedOriginally Posted by Andy56
Well i didnt need to splice the cable after all. It was tight fit but in the end , not difficult. I went to total tools and bought a long 8mm/1/4" socket and an extension to remove the body screws. I also needed an 8mm ring spanner because there is also one on the inside with very little room to work.
Replaced the bilge pump cover and now i just need to go out and test it all.
I am not super confident to go out alone just yet and its been blowing a gale.
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