Minn Kota instead of anchor?

[jclay1773]

Boat weighs in around 1600 full of fuel and part loaded but not including people. With 2-3 guys and water and extra gear I estimate boat comes in about 1800-1900kg. That's not including trailer.

BMT around 2200kg full of fuel. Trailer is 600kg.

I was a bit sceptical at first but it works well. Can drive it with MK against tide in fast flowing channel mid tide and it does it. Haven't been in a situation yet where it can't spot lock and hold within about 5 metres of mark but I haven't used it over about 20/25km winds yet.

Hope that helps. Bear in mind the MK and batteries add weight too. I think overall the setup adds about 120-130kg or thereabouts. My trailer is electric over hydraulic as it was tipping over the 2T. The overall BMT weight can be an issue if trying to keep under 2T

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thanks mate. My 6.2 will be around 2.5t on alloy trailer. Think I will need the 36v unit.

[Ashtom]

thanks mate. My 6.2 will be around 2.5t on alloy trailer. Think I will need the 36v unit.

The 36v would well and truly work great. I forgot to add my boat has about 320L water ballast. I guess it is pulling that around as well.

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[hweebe]

How much does it roughly cost to fit and install? I’m looking to retrospectively add to one to a bar rusher 575c

[chocolatemoose]

How much does it roughly cost to fit and install? I’m looking to retrospectively add to one to a bar rusher 575c

a few factors in mind.. batteries etc.. but change out of 5k..... depending on batteries etc.

Moose

[Monza]

Ok. Great feedback everyone. I have a 685 CC so I’d definitely need the biggest model. And mounting will be interesting - any examples of this?
I haven’t considered the Motirguide so I’ll have check this out.

[NAGG]

Just an observation & something that a lot of people don't realise when it comes to deep cycle batteries. DOD (depth of discharge) Most deep cycle batteries really should only be taken down to 50% of their charge (50amps on a 100 amp battery) - there are some exceptions with the most notable being "Lithium" LiFePO4 which can be pulled down to as low as 10% .

While a deep cycle battery can be drawn down lower - it's not only not recommended ….. It's actually destroying the battery . Eg a battery that is drawn down to 50% only - will have a life of around 1000 cycles. On the other hand if you draw it down to 25% that same battery will have a life of around 300 cycles .

Where I'm coming from is that - offshore spot locking usually consumes a lot of charge during a days fishing ( I've pulled out 50% from a 200amp battery) . So unless you want to be buying new batteries every few years ( or less) - either go bigger batteries (120 / 150amp) or spend the money & go with Lithiums (LiFePO4).

Offshore spot locking is still a relatively new trend - so we haven't really heard too much on this issue as yet …… but you will & so it's worth noting if you plan to get into it .

Chris

[Lovey80]

That’s a very good point Nagg. Considering @50% DoD is really bringing a battery down to 12.30-12.35volts before you start killing it, you would want a very strict charging regime to ensure that your house battery is absolutely maxed out before using it for spot lock duties. I would be definitely going LiFePo4 or even better LTO lithium batteries before using spot lock for offshore fishing.

[jclay1773]

That’s a very good point Nagg. Considering @50% DoD is really bringing a battery down to 12.30-12.35volts before you start killing it, you would want a very strict charging regime to ensure that your house battery is absolutely maxed out before using it for spot lock duties. I would be definitely going LiFePo4 or even better LTO lithium batteries before using spot lock for offshore fishing.

You would never use a house battery for spot lock duties. You want 3 dedicated batteries if going a 36v system. This means that I will be running 5 batteries.

[NAGG]

That’s a very good point Nagg. Considering @50% DoD is really bringing a battery down to 12.30-12.35volts before you start killing it, you would want a very strict charging regime to ensure that your house battery is absolutely maxed out before using it for spot lock duties. I would be definitely going LiFePo4 or even better LTO lithium batteries before using spot lock for offshore fishing.

Most people have stand alone batteries for their electric motors which are not part the boats electrical system - But that said some do use DC/DC chargers as part of a battery management system & their electric motor batteries are part of that . I looked into that option but I couldn't find a system that could cater for LiFePO4 batteries .
Honestly sometimes keeping it simple is the way to go ….

In the end - people just need to be aware of how much power can be drawn when spot locking …… unfortunately I have heard too many times people say "I went a full day spotlocking without flattening the battery" - yeh ok , but how much charge was left ? …… most wouldn't know .



Chris

[Dignity]

Most people have stand alone batteries for their electric motors which are not part the boats electrical system - But that said some do use DC/DC chargers as part of a battery management system & their electric motor batteries are part of that . I looked into that option but I couldn't find a system that could cater for LiFePO4 batteries .
Honestly sometimes keeping it simple is the way to go ….

In the end - people just need to be aware of how much power can be drawn when spot locking …… unfortunately I have heard too many times people say "I went a full day spotlocking without flattening the battery" - yeh ok , but how much charge was left ? …… most wouldn't know .



Chris

One of these helps, tells you what's happening all the time and so long as you don't disconnect it at the end of the day will tell you exactly how much you've used in volts, amps, watts also tells you the peak loads.

https://www.ebay.com.au/p/12v-150a-D...37b755fffa4971

[hweebe]

Requested a quote from my local boat dealer SCM to fit and install a suitable Minn Kota / Battery etc on a Bar Crusher 575c (which they are a distributor of both Minn Kota and Bar Crusher) and get this response.....
"You would need to have a plate fabricated and installed pryor to us being able to quote this properly for cable length etc."

I know its not a common thing to get on a Bar Crusher but this was not really the customer service i was looking for.
Does anyone one know a fabricator in Brisbane who could assist.

[stevej]

regarding the draw down issue
i just used cheap lead acid the century n70t 105 amp models and treated them like shit knowing it was only $209 to $250 each to replace them
if they last 2-3 seasons then that was good enough for me compared to buying more expensive units.

just factored it in as the cost of using the boat

[The Mad Cat]

Most people have stand alone batteries for their electric motors which are not part the boats electrical system - But that said some do use DC/DC chargers as part of a battery management system & their electric motor batteries are part of that . I looked into that option but I couldn't find a system that could cater for LiFePO4 batteries .


Chris

http://www.gsl.com.au/voltage-double...e-circuit.html

Hey Nagg,
I'm looking at these at the moment for a DC-DC charging system. Just need to talk to my battery guy and see what he thinks.

TMC

[myusernam]

A pro boat i know that has one just runs a gennie. It would be heaps cheaper.

[Greg P]

When the lithium batteries are a little more affordable I will definitely swap out my agm’s but can’t justify the $$ atm. Would really like the weight loss for the front of the boat but.

Just get yourself a Trollbridge installed for charging the batteries by the outboard when underway and an on board charger (I’m running a Promariner 20 on my Galeforce) for battery charging/conditioning. Don’t waste time with a 24v charger through the Anderson plug 🤐🤐

You can also get battery combiner set up to utilise your trolling motor batteries to start the outboard in an emergency.