E-Tec, Optimax, 4 Stroke? Looking at 115hp range

[blacklab]

I have no need to block you
If I block you, I can't call you out for what you are and what your doin.
Just grow up and let the bloke do what he's doing.
If you don't like "insults" then don't throw them out there.

I'm not interested in reading your personal messages either Pal, play it out on here if you want too.
FFS, just stay off Gazza's thread if you have that much hate towards the fella, your making an absolute dick of your self.
Let Gazza learn from his mistakes, be it successful or not, He ain't perfect, by a long stretch, but neither are any of us. The bloke gives it a red hot go, whether it's the right way of doing things, or not, that's not for us to sit behind a computer and take cheap shots at.
My grandfather told me once, Everyone's sh@te stinks, but there's some out there that believe there's doesn't !!!.

Just sayin Bud.

Col

[Gon Fishun]

Hey guys taking a bit longer than expected to swap over the powerhead the other day i grabbed the air hose out of the shed leading to the air compressor and the PVC hose snapped in 3 locations and was to short to bodge to reach the outboard than i had a major crap fight with the hose fitting it was just a frustrating time compressor was playing up i only today got the compressor and hose sorted so now i can vacuum blast out the broken engine pieces from the sump, my cousin has been a little busy too he was planning on coming over sat than sun but no availability understandable when u have 8 kids

i did have a chance to use the compressor before the hose snapped i picked up a Ryobi pneumatic air die grinder and had a whizz at the starter worked great but not the prettiest thing because i welded from the outside to the inside it looks like shit i can do a final weld and touch it up but i think it will do as is its only for a compression test and possible initial starting of the engine

still need to weld the other side and die grind it back too so more pics... will try get everything organised to do the powerhead as soon as i can i know it is dragging out but nothing is panning out

strangely enough there wasanother guy online seeing my starter motor rebuild and said he may have a starter to fit but needed both my leg and powerhead serial number why on earth are they following me around the internet? every tom, dick and harry wants my serial numbers its really pissing me off

Old trick with the serial numbers Gaz. That block will never be seen again or the serial number. Perfect numbers for stolen engines. I've heard of a lot of people, when I was in Victoria, and mostly 351 fords. They would have an old engine block, steal a car and change the engine number. Job done.

[gazza2006au]

Steve i donno why but i always give u a 2nd 3rd 4th chance and unblock you than u just say the same shit again to go back on block

Chris and Gon i am thinking along the lines someone out there may think my engine is stolen maybe because of the price i paid for it? maybe they have had one nicked like it? I'm not to sure... these engines are not always available i have only found a few for sale over the 10 months i've had it, the price i paid for the engine was ridiculously cheap i think it was like $1000 but i only paid $1500 for the Etec from a Evinrude Dealer too, would just like the people to go away and nag someone else

my cousin said he will come over this afternoon to help put the powerhead on so thats a positive for today

[gazza2006au]

Finally finished the starter motor when welding what i didnt focus on was the 2mm and 4mm walls i just ran all the welds on 2mm i didn't think to up the settings for the side walls so its a little cold on those welds anyhow its back together i put pliers on the toothed sprocket and it turns a little tight but i have never worked on a planatary gearbox starter motor so i would assume it would not spin like a basic starter motor

[blacklab]

Gazza, It's not something I would have attempted, way out of my skill sets, but admire your efforts all the same.
Only way of telling if it's a successful fix, will be when it's bolted on and you try to fire up the motor.
Now on with the next task......

Col

[gazza2006au]

Hey Col it should work because it spins just a little tight light the tightness of opening a coke bottle that's been in the freezer to long, I'll hook it up soon to the car and test it if it spins slow i will just need to disassemble and put some grease in the gearbox

[gazza2006au]

I just tested it with jumper leads she fired up and spun really easily i would say the stiffness is due to the gear ratio in the gearbox

[gazza2006au]

Powerhead is all ready to go on today family will be here 4:30 i'll bolt her down tomorrow in daylight and hopefully do a compression test, what just came to me was the crate was marked 2009 yet the bloke said in the ebay add the powerhead had been sitting for 2 years in storage? so it's likely i have a worn out shitter but will see

i just tried vacuuming out the debris but the pieces were stuck with the oil so I'm just hopping the oil pan pick up mesh filter grabs it or it will end up in the oil filter which i don't want any of it making it that far

[gazza2006au]

Dang not looking good bottom spark plug shows signs of rust just tried cranking it over to do the compression test but either the battery is dead or my starter repair didn't work, cranks over no spark plugs put plugs in she stops just before TDC on cylinder 1 so its likely my battery I'll grab the battery out of the small boat put it on charge and check compression tomorrow

the tiny bit of rust on bottom cylinder looks like leaking head gasket just from observation so far

all shit is hitting the fan over that Etec EMM that frenchie royally .... me a beauty

EDIT: grabbed battery from small boat and done a compression test battery was reading 12.2v so pretty much flat i checked cylinder 1 came out 125psi, bottom cylinder came out at 48psi (rusty spark plug)

[gazza2006au]

Results are in looks like i was conned by ebay seller since that one cylinder is 60psi and all other cylinders are 125psi i believe the compression rings are rusted inside the piston grooves sad thing is i have no cash for the repair but the good thing is i just need to save a few hundred its quiet a cheapish engine to repair head gasket is $110, piston rings $50, piston $110, main and rod bearings $20 each

i should have really done a compression test a long time ago may have gotten some coin back from the seller but i am still ok with what i have i know i can repair it my self as long as its not valve seats but would have loved some honesty from the seller i still would have bought it with one down cylinder considering the position i was in

i guess there is only one more test for me to carry out and that will be a leak down test to see if its the valves leaking and i will check the clearance on that particular cylinder before it goes on the to do list

[catshark]

sounds like a minor setback however you sound confident you can fix this......if the valves arent seating properly could this contribute to the lower psi reading in last cylinder

[gazza2006au]

Cat yeah its a very easy to work on engine i pulled the cam cover off took a look every engine i have worked on have had the cam lobes at 10 o'clock and 2 o'clock these mercury cams are set up differently they face 2 o'clock and 10 o'cloke pointing towards each other i thought someone may have the cams 90 degrees out deliberatly but i checked the manual and its correct, its a very minor set back about 5 hours work just takes cash to buy the parts

I am hoppibg its just rusted piston rings in the piston groves if it is valve seats i am shit out of luck as i dont have any valve seat cutters they are a very expensive tool to buy like $700 a small 5 piece set

I plan on tearing down the old engine soon hopping to salvage the remaining 3 conrods along with pistons i may use one of those if they are the correct size in diameter but i suspect the cylinder head will be damaged on that engine

Strange thing with this particular engine there are no cylinder head bolts the main crank bolts go right thru the whole crankcase righ up into the cylinder head holding the whole engine together i may need a second set of hand to lift the cylinder head when bolting it back on

[gazza2006au]

i tore down the 90hp powerhead today as it was still sitting on the grass i thought the whole powerhead was no good boy was i wrong i left it neglected sitting on the dirt with a tarp over it in all this Sydney rain because i thought it was a complete loss, today i removed the cylinder head and lower crankcase, i undone the conrod caps and it appears my crankshaft is in really good nick i have not put a micrometer on it yet but its looking like it can be project salvage from here on, the cylinder head looks good i did screw up the valve buckets i tilted the engine and got them mixed up any how all valves are closed and there is no cylinder head damage that i can physically see but i will need to remove the valves and check if they are strait

the conrod and main journals look almost brand new! but a couple of the bearings were worn and damaged, seems this engine suffered the same fate as the 115hp powerhead and they have both taking water in thru the head gasket

i have had to leave the upper crankcase and crankshaft on the grass just because its to heavy to lift and i cannot remove the crankshaft without taking the flywheel off my flywheel tool was to small to fit so i am going to have to fabricate one out of 10mm steel plate

[gazza2006au]

Will edit in a sec

[gazza2006au]

i have been really laggin on the engine tear down that flywheel put a stop to anymore work as it was interlocked with the crankcase so noway of just lifting the crank out with the flywheel attached,it has been 3 weeks i took the cover off tonight and was a little worried when i seen the crank this will be my main good crank, the rust just wipes off the journals but the webs are rusted no real big deal it will blast off with soda i really should have sprayed it with wd40 when i tore it apart anyhow tonight i got out the drill and 10mm plate drilled a few holes corresponding those on the flywheel the plate will be my flywheel puller i just need to drill one more hole in the centre and she should be good to use i will use the new air compressor and the rattle gun to pop the flywheel off tomorrow and will order a few kilos of baking soda from woolworths or coles cheapest place to get it

i suspect the supposedly good powerhead looks like this internally too on the bottom cylinder, welcome to salt water engines

anyone know the rules for using a cordless drill at 10pm on a tuesday night? my neighbours were video filming me i was using it at a slow speed and what i consider quiet, didnt see them untill i heard them talking