Scottar i was given half a tank of oil do u know the colour of the xd100 oil? I will go check the oil out in the car the oil tank is still in the car boot im not checking the car engine oil lol
One other option I haven't considered until now Gazza - the wrong oil. If it was set to run BRP's fully synthetic XD100 and someone filled the tank with a TCW3 product, it would have been under oiling even if the oil injection system was perfect.
Scottar i was given half a tank of oil do u know the colour of the xd100 oil? I will go check the oil out in the car the oil tank is still in the car boot im not checking the car engine oil lol
I googled it xd100 is honey colour and smells like cats piss, xd50 is suppose to be blue green but unsure of smell
My oil is strait up blue and reeks like cats piss
All my oil lines are the same dark blue
LOL. To be honest Gazza, I'm not too sure what "cat's piss" smells like but that oil is definitely not XD100. It's either XD50 (I've never used it - mine is only fed XD100), a TCW3 rated oil or something else. If the EMM is set to XD100, that could potentially be the problem. When the EMM gets read you will know for sure what it is set to.
Oil colour.jpg
For reference Gazza
Yeah it could be the TC3W, Anyone know where to download the E-Tec software? i can make up a cable tomorrow but need the program
Scottar it smells like really strong piss lol
Check this out.
IMG_2181.jpg
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Yeah it could be XD50 in my container, going to buy one of those ebay diagnostic deals but one that they email me the download so ican hopefully run it today or tomorrow
yammalube is also blue
Working on that one bolt this afternoon got the old trusty Repco tig welder out i have heated the bolt once now letting it cool to crack the corrosion
Went to RS Online and picked up a female triangle plug to suit the E-Tec's diagnostics plug i also bought the program from Ebay from somewhere Slovakia somewhere like that cost AUD$80
once i get this bolt undone i will take the block into a shop i'll take along with it the piston, rods and bearings to see what a experienced expert has to say
i also called the shop i bought the engine from he said he didn't have the print outs of the details but did say i should be able to run the diagnostics with everything off the engine
Got that seized bolt undone i soaked it for a few minutes at 30amps just enough to heat the bolt without melting it i than stopped but decided to give it some more heat so lit it back up and sat on it for another 4mins let it cool and she came undone not without resisting whole bolts thread was caked with calcium without the tig welder i had not a chance of getting it undone
i used the engine crane to lift the powerhead off because at this point i didn't know how heavy it was i sat it back down than some heave ho carried it into the shed the powerhead would weight around 45-50kg
i got it on the bench and undone the crankcase bolts, removed the crank and inspected it crank looks all ok no damage only one journal is slightly burnt, notice all the oil that came out of the block? everything was lubed well and truely
the main bearings 2 split type were in excellent condition the 3rd is a press fit that too is in excellent condition, basically i have one rooted block, half a piston and the coloured crank plus the conrod that started it all
pictures turned to crap the camera fogged while in my pocket had to have felt 34c in the shed
There was this half external pin in the crankcase i have NFC why it was there i have never seen it before on any engines i have rebuilt i had the feeling it may have been put in place by the last rebuilder as in a way of tamper proofing the engine it was an absolute pain in the ass to remove the crankcase due to this one pin i had to heat the crankcase 3 times with the propane torch and wiggle it loose
Is that roller marks on the crank? what do you mean by an external pin on the crankcase?
Your manual would have told you to use a taper pin removal tool & give you the dimensions to make one.
Taper pins are used to accurately locate the crankcase to the block.
A manual will save you a lot of headaches Gazza.
Nah there are no marks Noel even the main bearings were ok for the cylinder that let go i donno how it never damaged the crank, iwill get better pics when i take it to the shop this afternoon, ahh i see what u mean now Noel nah those bearings split in half with a si clip to hold them together the actual main crank journal is inside of it
Fed this isnt a crankcase locating pin i went thru the manual last night and there were no mention of it i think it was added by someone who done the last rebuild for warranty and temper proofing, this pin is located in the top left of the casing right out on the side no where near a locating pin would normally be located