May be worth a look or phone call
https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/sing...rts/1189737806
http://www.southcentraloutboards.com...0Powerheads%22
Sent from my iPhone using Ausfish forums
I need to keep the rebuild cost in check because a whole powerhead out of the US cost USD$3100 plus shipping https://www.ebay.com/itm/Remanufactu...oAAOSwpRRWn7Wg
May be worth a look or phone call
https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/sing...rts/1189737806
http://www.southcentraloutboards.com...0Powerheads%22
Sent from my iPhone using Ausfish forums
Yep, I reckon I would chase that up, you just never know, it would sure save a heap of time and money, wonder what happened to it?
Thats a great find Shakey but i cam really iffy about stuff out of WA if u scroll thru the Gumtree adds you'll be amazed, WA has 10% of our population but Gumtree is absolutely flooded with shady adds from WA alot of it is con's and i think this add could possibly be too as that powerhead is worth easy $2500 here in Australia
If u look at that guys heads my heads are running way more leaner do u think my problem was oil injection related?
You can only guess with the evidence you have, but, seeing as the bearings went first, breaking the rod, my "guess" would be (as I think I said before) perhaps low oil, not no oil, remember the oil does not mix with the fuel (kind of) like the old VRO models do, the fuel (with no oil) is direct injected into the combustion chamber, and the oil is "injected" into the crankcase, I do believe that a small amount of oil is also supplied to the combustion chamber? and the air transferred to the combustion chamber picks up a small amount of oil too, the e-tec is quite "high tech" compared to old carb 2 strokes, that's how they achieve their clean air rating. I would still contact that guy on gumtree, just to sus it out.
Yeah the way the E-Tec oil system works is the oil is delivered thru the front of the cowling to the oil pump the oil pump than delivers oil to the crankcases at the bottom end than there is one hose that travels to the back of the powerhead and attaches to a delivery dividing device where the oil is than split 4 ways and the oil is sent to each cylinder, possibly one of these oil injection hoses or fittings were blocked on that one or more cylinders
Interesting just got off the phone to a outboard mechanic he asked which cylinder went i said No:1 he said the furtherest away from the gearbox is overheat issue and if it were oil injection all the cylinders would have went at the same time
so after fixing the power head
how do you know it wont happen again as you dont know what component failed in the first place
and things in WA are cheaper purely cause of the distances involved for freight and the smaller population to sell too, not speculated scam rumors
it may as well be another country over there.
Steve its a water pump impeller fail but not confirmed yet, while i was unbolting the powerhead i went to unbolt the gear shift linkage and it were already unbolted so i can guarantee the shop i bought the engine from looked at the impeller already as a possible cause of failure
what the mechanic said makes sense as the highest cylinder will be the last to receive water and also the hottest cylinder of the 4 and this is the one that failed
the engine was probably going at a decent speed i also remember reading about the impellers and it was mentioned to always use OEM impellers in E-Tec's due to the 3 year no service and if someone ran a aftermarket impeller it was at there own risk, i reckon the one in this engine was aftermarket but just guessing
i am stuck as for removing the powerhead one seized bolt stuck holding it down at the rear center its a tight fit but i may have to get out the tig welder and heat up the bolt, i still have the magneto attached so this has to come off before i weld or i'll fry it
Only fly in the ointment with the overheat theory is the engines own protection circuitry. Not sure how many temp sensors are in the V4's but I know my V6 has 3 and if any of them break over about 90 degrees celcius the alarms start singing. There are plenty of reports online of punters with overheat issues where an impeller change has sorted it out I still wouldn't rule out a low oil delivery issue to the cylinder that failed as per Noel's suggestion or possibly an injector delivering too much fuel and washing out the lubrication on that cylinder a bit. Hard to tell. Certainly don't want to rule out anything as far as bolting it back together and finding one of the parts still in service caused the failure the hard way. The shop probably dropped the leg - pretty standard fault diagnosis starting point to try and isolate an issue to powerhead or lower unit. Just because they have pulled it doesn't mean they suspected impeller. Did they give you a EMM report. If they didn't it might be worth seeing if Huett's can give you one - may give some more pointers as to the cause.
Yeah I'm only speculating at the moment if oil pumps were cheaper i would replace the whole thing with a brand new one or is there some type of place that can test these things? I'm a bit iffy about reusing the oil pump and i most defiantly want all 4 injectors checked and cleaned before i start her up
actually your on to something i remember that top bearing being coated in oil but the lower bearings were drenched in oil to the point they stuck to the crank, now thinking about it that cylinder that let go rod bearings were drier than the others but i dismissed it because the cylinder was open for 6 months and may have dried out a little
can the EMM be tested off the engine harness? if so i will see if the boat code guy will come out and read it for me, i really don't want to drop the EMM off to a shop and they lose it these computers are rare to find in working order and bloody expensive
Best option would be to give Huey a call and ask him. Can't imagine he would lose one - too good a rep for that sort of thing. Provided you have a harness to power the EMM, it should be able to be read. I don't think you could do a full test as it needs the stator to be putting in voltage to check charging and the injectors hooked up to make sure it is triggering them but it would be a start. The oil pump itself is also monitored by the EMM. If it doesn't see an oil pulse on the sensor it will go straight into protection mode - had mine do this due to an air bubble just recently but with the computer in the boat just did an oil system prime and all was good. If there was an oil pulse issue it will be in the computer report - assuming it is serviceable.
Overheat typically causes piston/bore damage before bearings, and to overheat enough to cause that damage will probably have paint cooked on the head and block too.
Scottar i might buy the software and check it out my self and thanks for the info on the computer self priming i wasnt actually dure how that was done as i am no where near that stage yet
Noel check out this bearing from one of the good cylinders it started changing colour meaning either lack of oil or over heating temp
The bearing on the right is from one of the good cylinders this bearing is also the bearing showing colour
The bearing on the right is the bearing from the snapped conrod