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Thread: It Begins..... Seafarer Ventura Stringers and floor.

  1. #31

    Re: It Begins..... Seafarer Ventura Stringers and floor.

    Haha funny u say that Noel when i started i had glue in my hair all over my clothes that stuff was everywhere, glad it washed out of my hair tho after 2 days i was going to go bold again

  2. #32

    Re: It Begins..... Seafarer Ventura Stringers and floor.

    Well, not a heap done in the last couple days, had some shit to do yesterday so didnt get into it.
    Had kids sports etc all morning, so did a couple hours this arvo.
    Was gonna put the stringer in, got some conduit, but found my 32mm holesaw was ####ed and didnt want to go back to bunnings for a new one.
    I got the useless seatboxes and cut a hole in them. Yep, forgot them before pic. Just picture it as you see it, but no big rectangle hole......
    Anyway, hatch fits.
    Ground and sanded them back as they were pretty dinged up, then tried my hand glassing one. Turns out, I'm not much of a fibreglassser, but I guess I'll see how it turned out tomorrow.
    I cut a couple seat bases to go into the bottom. Just 2x18mm laminated then going to plane down to size to give a good solid anchor point.
    Pics attached.


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    Attached Images Attached Images

  3. #33

    Re: It Begins..... Seafarer Ventura Stringers and floor.

    Now this bit I am happy with.
    Got my stringer in this morning, well 4/5th of it anyway.
    I'm really happy how it looks, managed to get fillets done too.
    Was gonna put the top end in too, but figured I'd get this bit in then have a solid anchor point to join it to.
    The finishcoat drum was s perfect fit to hold it in place with a screwdriver to level it out.
    20180812_110111.jpg20180812_110102.jpg20180812_110055.jpg

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  4. #34

    Re: It Begins..... Seafarer Ventura Stringers and floor.

    Think your meant to fillet and glass while the fillet is still wet this is what i have been told and read heaps about it because the wet glass over the wet fillet gets a secondary bonding but i have seen guys fillet and let cure like u have

  5. #35

    Re: It Begins..... Seafarer Ventura Stringers and floor.

    Oh. Ah well, its getting glassed tomorrow.
    Got a bit more done.
    Stringer is finished. Got the rest cut and in. Also got seat bases on.
    Didn't think I'd get a heap done today, but pretty happy so far.20180812_150213.jpg20180812_144520.jpg

    Tuesday I'm busy elsewhere so if I glass that stringer on Monday, it'll have 2 days to cure, then demolition recommenses.....

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  6. #36

    Re: It Begins..... Seafarer Ventura Stringers and floor.

    Forgot to add u need to stagger your stringer joints as not to create one huge weak spot where they all join across a center line from side of boat to the other side, looks like a good job so far your work is tidy, will u be installing any bulkheads?

    i start glassing around 2pm and found it takes 2 days or my laminate to fully cure and go rock hard so your timing sounds good

    are u using talc? or something else, Im watching with interest as i will be doing my stringers soon

  7. #37

    Re: It Begins..... Seafarer Ventura Stringers and floor.

    Yeah was gonna stagger them. Not sure about bulkheads. Theres none in it now, I plan on a couple when I put the fuel tank under the floor, but otherwise I dont think so.
    I havent been using talc. I have some, but have been using fumed silica so far. Mostly because I've been using it as glue, and couldn't be assed mixing a batch of talc as well. Fumed silica is stronger and lighter anyway, and pricewise in the grand scheme of things not really an issue.
    It's pretty user friendly.
    I have some Q cells, havent use them yet either, apparently good for forming, and easy to sand. I'll give them a try when I find a spot. All trial and error at this point

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  8. #38

    Re: It Begins..... Seafarer Ventura Stringers and floor.

    Bonding with Epoxy Fillets

    A fillet (fil’it) is a cove-shaped application of thickened epoxy that bridges an inside corner joint. It is excellent for bonding parts because it increases the surface area of the bond and serves as a structural brace. All joints that will be covered with fiberglass cloth will require a fillet to support the cloth at the inside corner of the joint.

    Joint strength is the ability of a joint to adequately transfer a load from one part to another, and depend on the combined effects of three factors:

    Glue Strength—Careful metering and thorough mixing will ensure the epoxy mixture cures to full strength.Adhesion—For the best adhesion and load transfer, the epoxy joint’s bonding surfaces must be#properly prepared.Joint Area—The epoxy bonding area of the joint must be adequate for the load on the joint and materials being joined. Increased overlap, scarf joints, filets and reinforcing fibers can be used to increase joint bonding area.

    The procedure for bonding with epoxy fillets is the same as normal bonding except that instead of removing the squeezed-out thickened epoxy after the components are clamped in position, you shape it into a fillet. For larger epoxy fillets, add thickened mixture to the joint as soon as the bonding operation is complete, before the epoxy bonding mixture is fully cured, or any time after the final cure and sanding of exposed epoxy in the fillet area.

    The procedure for bonding with epoxy fillets is the same as normal bonding except that instead of removing the squeezed-out thickened epoxy after the components are clamped in position, you shape it into a fillet. For larger fillets, add thickened mixture to the joint as soon as the bonding operation is complete, before the bonding mixture is fully cured, or any time after the final cure and sanding of exposed epoxy in the fillet area.

    Bond parts as described in#Bonding.Shape and smooth the squeezed-out thick epoxy into a fillet by drawing a rounded filleting tool (mixing stick) along the joint, dragging excess material ahead of the tool and leaving a smooth cove-shaped fillet bordered on each side by a clean margin. Some excess filleting material will remain outside of the margin. Use the excess material to re-fill any voids. Smooth the fillet until you are satisfied with its appearance. A mixing stick will leave a fillet with about a 3/8″ radius. For larger fillets, an#808 Plastic Squeegee, cut to shape or bent to the desired radius, works well. Apply additional thickened epoxy to fill voids or make larger fillets. Apply the mixture along the joint line with the rounded mixing stick, using enough epoxy mixture to create the desired size of fillet. For longer or multiple fillets, empty caulking gun cartridges or disposable cake decorating bags can be used. Cut the plastic tip to lay a bead of thickened epoxy large enough for the desired fillet size. Heavy duty, sealable food storage bags with one corner cut off may also be used.Clean up#the remaining excess material outside of the margin by using a sharpened mixing stick or a putty knife. Fiberglass cloth or tape may be applied over the fillet area before the fillet has cured (or after the fillet is cured and sanded).Sand smooth with 80-grit sandpaper after the epoxy #fillet has fully cured. Wipe the surface clean of any dust and apply several coats of resin/hardener over the entire fillet area before final finishing.

    I just read the above on the West System Epoxy Resin website u can lay the fillets down and either glass whike wet or let it fully cure sand than glass, i was only taught the first way of installing the stringers but as u have done is the correct way also glad i read that as i was going to try glue,fillet and glass my stringers all within a few hours before the resin starts to cure but much relief now that the second way is much user friendly

  9. #39

    Re: It Begins..... Seafarer Ventura Stringers and floor.

    So. Got the stringer glassed in. Pretty happy with it. Feels solid as a rock, even before the glass. Got at least 3 layers of 400gsm, 4 or 5 in some places.
    That'll get 48hrs to cure.
    In hindsight, I should've rounded off the corners on top and I could've completely finished it off with some top glass.
    I was going to do it before putting this glass on, but the fillers were still a little tacky in places, didnt want crap sticking all over it.
    I did go over the very end of the stringer as I did round that bit off in anticipation, figured I could complete it.
    20180813_110745.jpg20180813_110749.jpg20180813_110753.jpg

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  10. #40

    Re: It Begins..... Seafarer Ventura Stringers and floor.

    Was going to mess around with flowcoat this arvo.
    Thought I'd put a coat on one of my seat based to try it out.....
    Quick question, how much filling does the flowcoat do? Meaning does it need to be super smooth as if I was going to paint it? Or can it have some texture like from raw fiberglass?

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  11. #41

    Re: It Begins..... Seafarer Ventura Stringers and floor.

    Quote Originally Posted by gford001 View Post
    Was going to mess around with flowcoat this arvo.
    Thought I'd put a coat on one of my seat based to try it out.....
    Quick question, how much filling does the flowcoat do? Meaning does it need to be super smooth as if I was going to paint it? Or can it have some texture like from raw fiberglass?

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    What type of finish are you after?

  12. #42

    Re: It Begins..... Seafarer Ventura Stringers and floor.

    Glossy. Smooth.
    I decided to mess around with q cells and try making it smooth. Kind of worked. I'll see how it looks when cured.

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  13. #43

    Re: It Begins..... Seafarer Ventura Stringers and floor.

    Near impossible to get a good finish, either sprayed, brushed or rolled without lots of hard work sanding and polishing, unless of course you are using it first in a mould.

  14. #44

    Re: It Begins..... Seafarer Ventura Stringers and floor.

    From what i gained on the BM forum is when fairing u only want to fill the weave in the cloth u don't want to be sanding all that excess filler for no reason also the more resin u have to q-cells the more fun your going to have sanding as the resin is harder to sand than the q-cells

    i have never used or sanded q-cells i have used the West System's fairing powder tho

    also don't get your glue mixed up with your fairing powder unless u use the talc

  15. #45

    Re: It Begins..... Seafarer Ventura Stringers and floor.

    Quote Originally Posted by gford001 View Post
    Glossy. Smooth.
    I decided to mess around with q cells and try making it smooth. Kind of worked. I'll see how it looks when cured.

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    Ok if you are wanting that type of finish you will be doing a large amount of sanding/polishing. Try and get the surface as perfect as you can will help. How big a surface are you covering ?. If I am doing smallish areas I use a plastic film over the top once I lay the gelcoat down and then smooth it off with the edge of a dowel or ruler. Let it cure and peel the plastic off and you have a nice flat surface and just requires a light wet/dry and polish. The plastic film I use is much the same as the old overhead projectors used in schools.

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