Reply With QuoteKill the bait revive the bait, kill the bait revive the bait, kill the bait revive the bait, why?
I'm about to change some wiring to the bait pump to include a timer but I'm concious of the fact that the timer could fail or I just want to override it altogether so I'm wondering if I wired it up to a 2 way rocker switch is there any problems associated with the way I'm proposing to do it. The other thing that I've always struggled with is joining two wires to one, I do have some XT60 plugs that I'll be using as pumps/deckwash occasionally fail and it will be easier to replace however applying dual wall heatshrink where 2 wires enter one connection point still leaves me wondering how waterproof this is.
Kill the bait revive the bait, kill the bait revive the bait, kill the bait revive the bait, why?
5 mins off won't kill the bait, I need it as places we anchor up st night has heaps of bait but they all disappear in the morning, don't want a pump running all night.Originally Posted by Fed
That should work, you just need an on/off/on style switch, pick your position as appropriate.
I have a waterproof rocker switch which has an off and 2 on positions.
Make them sick, revive them..... why?
You could just reduce the water flow by turning the tap down or use a smaller pump.
Fed, smallest pump still 300 gals an hour and most pumps are not the the most efficent power wise, also not sure about the effect of restricting flow for 7 hours has on a pump. I've run a pump manually at around 5 min intervals and it doesn't appear to affect them, been on a boat where a timer is used, not an issue, suggest you try it first. As mentioned one location we get bait is only in the evening, through the night I've had bait swimming for hours before refreshing once the water has been cleared a couple of times, they just rest through the night.
I've had a timer with override switch on my bait tank for years. Livies will last forever in there. It runs a small bilge pump for a few minutes at a time.
Ordered a couple and got them today, expecting them next week. Awesome timing as currently rewiring the deckwash and bait tank to a new spot.
Ok, first problem, the wiring diagram shows that the negative is being switched which is not what I expected (the 110 - 220V diagram shows the same). This is unusual, to me at least but if so it complicates matters as it means to sets of connectors to the bait pump, not what I wanted. I do have a spare as the units were only $6 each and so was going to experiment tomorrow on maybe using the Active In/Out of S1/S0 if it is soley a switching mechanism. Anyone forsee any problems.
Realised before playing that there must be internal circuitry that's doing the switching and I'll probably fry those circuits. I just need to work around it somehow I just didn't want to put in an extra switch, I could utilise the existing switches and wire up the negatives but then I'll lose the illumination of the switches.
OK, after checking with my BIL he checked out the spare one I bought and said S1 S0 is purely a relay operated switch and I could run the active through it. Happier now, installed and working well, ended up with this model. Sits nicely surface mounted in a waterproof box.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/12V-Timi...item2136d0e962
Think you have already sorted it Sam. Negative switching is actually becoming more and more common with electronic control. Some autopilots I worked with have been using it for over 15 years now. It is also becoming more common in cars. If you are worried about feeding 12 volts into the output, using diodes is a good simple option for low current devices.
Posting Permissions