Need to do a bit of a process, tonight i will put the paint stripper on the transom to hopefully strip the boat cote 2 pack paint than i'll fair the trasom and use a long board with spray paint as a guide
Once thats done i'll paint the transom and mount the pod than the engine
Im hopping it only takes the next week by than i'll have more resin and hardener to continue the inside
Just hope there is enough structure on the transom to support the engine and pod 203kg
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This will give u guys a fair idea on how much i faired the transom with the talc and epoxy mix ot was a shit job, i applied the citrus jel an hiur ago than scrubbed it off all it done to the aquacote 2 pack paint was clean it so im going to have to sand it in the morning before refairing it with q-celAttachment 121722Attachment 121723
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Gazza, not pulling your leg, I’m genuinely interested in learning something here.Originally Posted by gazza2006au
You said - ‘use a long board with spray paint as a guide’ as I don’t know what you mean here, can you or someone else explain. Thanks
Shakey - If only I lived near the coast
If Gazza was going to do what I think he was going to do, is that he was going to spray with a contrasting colour, then use a long board with sandpaper on it to sand it down, if you still have some paint patches left on the surface then that area is a low spot so either keep sanding till it is all gone provided you aren't removing too much material, or more likely to mark the outline of the patches with a marker, remove the patch of paint within the outline, build up the low spot, and repeat till once you can remove all the paint in one go, your surface is then flat.
At least that is what I think he was implying.
Gazza just a couple of things you have stated in your posts with regards to gelcoat being cheaper than 2 pack. A couple of things to take note of. You will use much more gelcoat vs 2 pack. Does not matter if you are spraying, roller or brush you will find that you are sanding most of it back off. This also depends on the finish you are after of course.
Myself I prefer gelcoat even tho it is much more work and time then throwing a primer down and a couple of hi-builds and then the top coat in 2-pack. I have painted many boats in 2 pack but they were all aluminum and really all you can paint with in a marine application. Since playing with fiberglass I have kept to gelcoat as for me it makes more sense to stick with the original coating. In saying that if I was doing a complete boat I would certainly be going with the 2-pack as the sanding would be to much. The other problem is the use of gelcoat over epoxy which is (unless you have found something new) is not recommended. If you have got something please let me know what it is.
With the paint stripper on fiberglass just be careful as when I was trying to find something to remove the anti fouling off my boat I tried a couple of recommended products and some removed the actual anti foul but not the primer. What I found it removed the primer also attacked the gelcoat and fiberglass which had me doing some repair work. Lucky I just did smal test areas to see what worked and ended up just doing it the hard way by sanding it all off.
While I have been playing with the fiberglass I did a few test pieces for my own enjoyment. The first test was checking the difference in the water absorption between polyester, vinyl ester and epoxy. So that was marine ply with 2 coats of 450gr csm on each test and then let cure for 2 weeks and I then dropped them in a bin of water weighted down. I did weigh each test piece before throwing them in the water so I had a benchmark and they have now been in the water for just over 12 months and every month I fish them out and weigh them and record the weight and so far I am getting a very small change in the polyester and no change in the other two. I am surprised the polyester has not taken more water in and I am going to give it another six months and cut them open and use a moisture meter to get a reading. I have also done the same test with two coats of gelcoat on each and so far I have no difference in the readings between the three.
I am no scientist and it's not done under controlled conditions by any means. I was just curious just what the difference between the three is as some of the information on the net has polyester and gelcoat sucking in water like a sponge. I was also interested just how gelcoat takes to epoxy.
I wouldn't worry to much about the outboard falling off the transom you have built. The trailer would break well before that transom.
Keep at it. My project is on hold at present due to house renovations so you should be finished well before me.
Thanks EdBerg. Now I understand and will put this in the memory banks for future use
Shakey - If only I lived near the coast
Not sure if im back yet or not will see if the wise asses want to keep on keeping on..
Ground down my transom in preperation to install the pod and wngine and found plywood seperation the fibreglass skin was peeling off the outer layer of plywood from my core so i over lapped the glass
Seems strong now will see transom looks like shit as i never really faired it to a good finish
Attachment 121756Attachment 121757Attachment 121758
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Are you saying the outer skin has not stuck to the ply?
Hey Noel the laminated glass i put on was pulling the first vernier off the plywood sheet unsure why it started to do it on the inside and outside
Only found this when i samded back the fairing to refair the transomAttachment 121762Attachment 121763Attachment 121764
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I donno it could just be voids in the plywoodAttachment 121765
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I'll wait and see what u say Noel as your the book of knowledge on here, the cracks are right across the transom outboard cut out
If u say to rip it out i will rip it out
If i have to redo it i will go thermolite or even a white pointer style all solid glass transom
Its a screw around because the transom was my first job on this boat i bought furniture grade plywood as it had a decent weight, no knots and was cheap
I have about 28 litres of epoxy..
Also by the end of the month my finances will be a fat zero so no need to make the home made seats and seat boxes i will be able to get some upper class gear like the relax seats and dolphin t top canopy
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A bit unfair based on a few photo's to put it all onto Noel isnt it..?
You do sound understandably concerned ....
Do you think you would be better off paying a professional boatbuilder/fibreglasser to assess it before going any further...?
Your whole project hinges on the integrity of the transom......
I was asking for Noels experience rather than holding him to liability im the rebuilding so ultimatly it falls back on me
I can almost push the whole trailer without the transom moving not even 5mm its very solid
But i have never heard of anyone elses plywood cracking like this i have no way of getting her to a boat rebuilder to ask they probably wouldnt even want to help if i were to pay because im not getting them to carry out any work
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i wouldnt worry too much , its just a tiny bit of seperation , think like a cable full of wire strands , even though strands can break , the tensile strength is still there as a whole . when you drill your holes for the pod and as your pulling out the drill , it could leave a miniscuile amount of seperation too , the strength is there , now to focus on a sealer product.
Yeah Cat u make it sound good, the strength feels there in the transom just pulling and pushing on it with my body weight but just a bit concerned doing figure 8's will the transom handle it
I counted 5 of those little hair line cracks over 1-1.2m and only one going up the vertical side of the transom, none across the top of the transom sides
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