Supermarket plastic cups are cheap, but, try one first, some just vanish when mixed resin goes near them.
My new scales from bunnings $21 i spend $20 on 10 mixing cups so hopping this lowers the build cost
These scales stay turned on continously unlike the other chinese marketted scales that turn off after 15 seconds
Plastic cups from woolies should be cheapAttachment 122324
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Supermarket plastic cups are cheap, but, try one first, some just vanish when mixed resin goes near them.
Thanks Noel im using epoxy so im hopping they will be ok only thing i can think of will be the thickness of the cups
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Just ordered my stainless bolts from a shop in QLD what i found strange some shops stated 1.75 pitch others said course thread and my stainless nuts from bunnings dont say the pitch or if they are course so fiik hope this all works out its costing a lot of money
I bought a 12.5mm drill bit from Sydney tools i wanted 13mm but none in stock at reasonable prices
Just need to order the transom plates and get some sika flex for the outboard mounting holes and bung hole
About the bung hole im going to cut the hole out a little larger than the bungs recessed diameter than completely fill the hole with glue than drill to size, my outside skin is 7mm the bung recesses about 10-12mm so im thinking if i dont fill the hole with glue it may be a bodgy fit up
Hopping my supplies come tomorrow so i can vacuum out the hull and start glassing under the floor
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Gazza. I hope you are not charging at this like a bull at a gate.
Take time think things over. Tube spacers for bolts Y/N, maybe I’ll call the board manufacturers and speak with them. Should I drill big holes for bungs and fill with glue - let me think about this. Mmmm
Think it all through while your glassing the last stringers under floor.
All I’m suggesting Gazza, is give it all some good thought before jumping in.
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Hey Shakey my transom skin is about 7mm thick the little recessed bit on the bung goes about 10mm deep the bung will just be glued to the foam if i dont fill the hole
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I just called the fibreglass shop the guy said the thermolite like material has really good compression strength he said plates on top and bottom would be sufficent and crush tubes would only be needed if the old plywood transom had crush tubes
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Hey guys just trying to start the mercury its only spinning slowly the battery reads 12.4v sitting, 12.2v with the fuel pump on, 8.4v while cranking
Did i screw up and buy a too small battery?
Do u think my starter motor repair is at fault
Or a faulty battery?
Just to refresh memories engine is a mercury 90hp efi 4 cylinder 4 stroke 2009
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Could be any of those things, bad cables will cause a voltage drop, a bad starter will do the same, does the motor turn OK by hand?
Yeah the engine turns good by hand, i read the battery shouldnt drop below 9.4v while cranking but im starting to believe my power to the engine is at fault i have always used jumper leads from the battery to engine the jumper leads are about 6 years old a bit shagged i tried to clean up the aligator clamps with a wire brush
The battery has been sitting about 1 hour its reading 12.5v
If its the battery which only cost $40 new, do u think i should double it up buy another battery to run in parallel for 720cca 80ah current battery is 360cca 40ah
Cant afford a good $200 crank battery atm
I will recheck the starter motor to make sure its spinning freely
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The new battery should be fine, using jumper cables might be your issue, can you take the battery out of the car for testing? or get some proper cables?
Jumper leads for fuxache!, have a look at the surface area of contact on jumper lead clips, take that 2nd hand battery back and get a refund. You've dropped 50.00 on that and done 40.00 on another, your halfway there on a real battery, go at least 600 cca, don't be the last to know for once.
Yeah i can use my car battery b7t i think the problem was the jumper leads at this point i havent laid out my electrical wiring and no cash to buy all the cables and connecters, my + jumper lead was smoking a little and the + cable got warm so i went to bunnings and bought a new set of jumper leads only $15 i could afford that
Gee its been 8-9 months since i started the engine if i can remember to back than i was having electrical problems but i put that down to my poor starter motor repair it may have been the jumper leads back than too
Will see tomorrow abit late to go out there now with the key on buzzer going off
Tried looking for 700amp battery wire but the wire cost a fortune
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Bob if i had $200 to begin with i wouldnt have a problem buying a 700cca battery
I wish i was in a position to buy a big 700-1000cca battery i wouldnt have cut the corner but i want the engine started now
I could use my car battery and i likely will tomorrow but if i kill that too than i donno i have two legs to walk
A battery was not really needed right now im a bit filled up with finances atm all my money gets channelled into the hull that is taking priority starting the engine i want done now as its been laying down but im not really ready or in a position to buy all the expensive electronics
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I think I've still got a new battery that I kept out of my old car that you might be able to have but you'd have to pay freight.