Don't buy empty containers. Eat the ice cream!
Bulla was the go but its got too much sugar since they changed the recipe. Aldi is probably the go now as they seem to have less sugar and a better price anyway.
The really thin diameter roller I find great to get into tight spots or to roll into corners.
I find you don't need much acetone to clean up if you run maybe three lots i with the last lot the cleanest. I just use three saleable bottles and just use new acetone for the last bottle
What could go wrong.......................
I was going to buy the bunnings 10L buckets to pour the resin in to, i only have 20min pot life so i will need a few buckets
I still have to clean the transom all the plywood in the joints that i never cleaned than give it a vacuum and wipe
The transom might be a small job but sheesh there is a lot of farting around getting everything ready for it
I doubt I would ever mix 10 lt of resin in one lot.
Even when I had a crew of 4 or 5 working we measured and cut our layers of glass to be layed up but we still weighed and mixed 2 and 4 kg lots of resin.
We added mekp as we needed the next lot of resin so each batch of resin had max life so it could be worked in a timely fashion.
I suspect that if you are on your own you will struggle to keep up with things even with small lots of resin if you don't have you glass measured cut labelled and layed out or re rolled ready to be used on the job. It can get stressful enough even if you are well prepared in a shed but outside in the open with sun on the job things go off quicker.
We were outside for some of the big jobs ie 4 m wide by 6 m with 3 or 4 layers of glass layed up at a session with a mould we rolled over as we worked to end up with a sort of "U' shape with a flat bottom. Maybe an "H" shape with the sides cut at the cross piece better describes it.
We also included stringer like pieces as we went. Great potential for a heart attack without really good planning!
Noelm's cover / porta shed is a good one you should consider IMHO
Take picture (with a throwaway camera) as you proceed. Ask me how I know about cameras and resin!!!
What could go wrong.......................
When I did my boat, and I am by no means an expert, but, you learn damn quick! I got a few containers of resin ready (no hardener) and had them right at hand, and the hardener measured in small cups ready to go, old containers were just put aside to be "cracked" clean the next day, as I finished one batch, the next one took only a minute to mix, because it was ready to go, having a helper to mix up just as you are using the last bit is a great help. As mentioned, have all mat cut and marked ready to go, it won't matter how careful you are, you are going to get resin all over the place, including the dogs, working in the open does complicate things.
Thanks for the tips, the 10L bucket is just a cheap alternative to the ice cream containers as the buckets are 95c each i wont be mixing 10 litres of resin rather around 200-250mls per batch if the buckets melt i can just throw them away at the end of the day
hopefully going to pick up a trailer mover to move the whole boat its currently sitting on a down hill slightly off the driveway should give me a better position to access the transom once i move the boat onto the driveway
Don't take pictures make a movie then play it back at twice the speed to the Benny Hill theme.
The money you make from youtube might buy you a new boat.
Good luck with it Gazza.
Fed yeah that was a plan for once its finished i will do a slow slide picture from the beginning maybe playing some Midnight Oil also hopping to get a mate or family member to sit on the bank for its first dip and test run to get it on video for the end of my youtube video
i have nearly 280,000 views on my youtube channel with over i think 150 subscribers so should be an audience
Bought a second hand clamp on type ratchet jockey wheel and used a 1/2" 2 foot long breaker bar the trailer just would not budge the rim on the wheel actually spun but the rubber stayed put i think my wheels are seized and the brakes are not even hooked up, Bugger
Hi Gazza,
I'm actually doing a similar project although mine is an old cruise craft hull, 550 Rambler. I'm taking a similar sort of approach, although I am doing the transom from the inside first, then I will cut out and do the stringers, install the floor and then cut off the cabin structure. I didn't want to remove too much structural integrity all in one go and have the hull want to sag all over the place. I'm at the stage of gluing in the new transom after laminating 2 pieces of 18mm play together.
I'm also using epoxy for strength but also the much better adhesion to plywood.
A few things from your above posts you might want to check:
1. chop strand is not generally used with epoxy. Chop strand has a binder with it to make all of the strands stick together in different directions, when you add polyester resin it breaks down the binder and the CSM will lay flat really well and take sharper curves etc. Epoxy doesn't break down the binder so you will not get the same result, I imagine it will still work but will not take the curves like with poly. It also will use a lot of resin and when using epoxy I don't think there is a lot of value in using the CSM, I am just going to use layers of the double bias. You can get binderless CSM but not in all places
2. For gluing you might want to consider fumed silica (often call Cabosil) it is much stringer than talc, but stronger means harder so difficult to sand. So I am to use cabosil additive for gluing and fillets but a sanding filler for fairing.
Good project though mate, lots to think about and plan, like you I hope all my plans come together
Hey Crooked Good to see someone else having a crack, do u have any pictures of your project?
There wasn't much structure in my cabin that's why when i seen this boat i just had to have it the cabin was held on by about 6 bolts 6mm and the one bulk head the main upper structure to her is the gunnels these are thick with plywood cores so far she hasn't flopped in the center
the videos i am watching are using a combo of CSM and double bias stitched together but we don't sell that 1708 in Australia yet its a pitty we are10-20 years behind the USA inmost things, when i bought the CSM i asked for it and i said i was using with epoxy the sales guy said it will work but i am not confident in his advice so i am only going to use the DB cloth
i picked up a box of cabosil i donno if the box was empty or bloody extremely light as a feather, this talc weighs a ton i was told the talc glue might sag so its a bit of a concern i wanted a lot of filler for not a lot of money that's why i went with talc
if the plywood shop is open over the weekend i might get the transom done pics to come soon
one thing i wanted to ask is should i grind back to bare hulli know it's probably meant to be done this way but whats left of tabbing is very thick like 6mm and 10mm in parts i think its impossible to grind all that away back to bare hull will it be ok to tab on top of this?
I have some photos and I'll try and get these up for you.
I guess you can always do some test pieces with the CSM see how it wets out. The cabosil is light but makes the epoxy an extremely strong glue, I haven't used talc so this might also be OK, again maybe a bit of testing to see if it does what you want.
In regard to grinding back to bare hull, I guess as long as the fibreglass you are tabbing to is solid ie. almost appears part of the hull anyway I guess there is no reason you can't tab to this. Ideally you want to get back to a base that is solid and usually this would mean removing any old tabbing etc, I have done this. Whatever the case fibreglass cloth will not want to conform to any sharp edges or lumps so whatever you have needs to be smooth and with gradual curves. I ground mine back with a 40 grit flapper disk and it will remove old fibrefglass really quickly, lots of dust though so cover up or be itchy for a while.
There are some key principles to follow but there are lots of different ways to go about it, heaps of opinions out there like mine but keep in mind they are opinions and not expert advice. There is no absolute correct way.
Just remember if you use really thick glue/bog (talc and resin) it's not very strong, it's quite brittle and will break.
on a project this big that your going to spend 20-30k on why cut corners from the beginning
Thanks Crooked and Noel, learning as i go, the biggest problem i see is the large bilge someone has put layer on top of layer really bloody thick throughout the bilge and its hard to access to grind it all out its about 8-10mm thick thats without the hull
Steve its a under $10,000 boat build mate
I am hopping my CC is finished or close to it either this coming summer or the next summer so i can sell my current boat for 3-4k hopefully snag a nice 90hp or 115hp evinrude etec or a mercury optimax
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