Can someone recommend the paints i need from this shop they are a local ebay shop to me https://www.ebay.com.au/sch/m.html?_...paint&_sacat=0
I reckon i nailed it first fairing bog job transom looks and feels flat the bottom right will need more attention and the entire transom will need one more thin layer of fairing than a really good sand with the inline file sander
spent a couple hours this afternoon sanding with the orbital sander i may look into getting a small bag of West System's fairing powder just to make it easier to sand the talc is easy to sand but if there is something easier WS sells i will give it a try, with this layer of talc and resin should only make the transom stronger
transom as it sits is rock solid
once transom fairing is done i will paint it just to keep the UV rays from breaking down the epoxy once the whole boat is finished i will consider repainting the transom along with the entire boat
undecided if i am going to build the pod next or do my stringers, Gford has me keen as to wanting to do my stringers after seeing his
Can someone recommend the paints i need from this shop they are a local ebay shop to me https://www.ebay.com.au/sch/m.html?_...paint&_sacat=0
how many layers of chop strand did you have to do to get thickness, been watching some video on glassing over wood , certainly a lot of prep and mixing. im toying up the idea of making a wave breaker, but i think i should watch more videos first. i still dont know what talc is ? ha ha isnt it like baby powder.
Hey cat i went in total 10 layers of fiberglass what made up those layers were 8 layers of 400 gram cloth, 2 layers of 900 gram cloth i used double bias cloth which has just over double the tensile strength of chopped mat
Yeah talc is talcum powder same as baby powder but industrial strength its used anywhere from powdering under sweaty arm pits to making chocolate not stick to machinery to a filler in resin to make glue and fairing mixes its widely used product
I have gone thru around 30 mixing cups mostly mixing in the talc is punishing because u need it really thick so it wont sag its wearing on the wrist especially fairing the transom
I'm not sure if i am approaching this the right way but i am using a piece o strait angle aluminium to measure how much more fairing i need basing it from the outer perimeter from the existing hull so i know how much more fairing i need over the transom, i have around 2mm on it at the moment and it needs only another 1-2mm i have never put fairing on a boat before so all this is new to me if anyone has advice please don't be shy!
going to try source some cheap fairing mix now that is easy to sand
EDIT: just called a fibreglass shop and were recommended West System 411 filler i mentioned i had fared the hull with epoxy and talc the guy said i need to seal the talc with at lease one coat of epoxy resin when finished before painting the same goes with the West System 411 filler, kind of lucky i was just going to paint it
Last layer of titanium glue i mean fairing to go on this shit is hard as sanding steel with 3000 grit i tried to whip some 40 grit disc on the orbital but they keep falling off i guess my limit is around 80 grit on the Bosche PEX orbital 60 grit is so tiring, its a massive job sanding talc but talc with epoxy resin is a mammoth job the epoxy is so strong its incredible to sand
i have decided I'm not going to use a torture board i reckon i would make next to no progress using it against my fairing mix talc/epoxy i would spend the next few weeks just sanding
I'm going to orbital it than under coat and see what it looks like paint will be something with high gloss to hide the imperfections from the orbital sander, i really want to move onto setting up the trailer with a couple long bunks than do the stringers i am over the transomso much work so little progress i am just whinging lol, now i know why shops charge 2-4k to do a transom
when i use the 80 and 60 grit stick on disc i see no dust coming off but today using the 40 grit i seen heaps of dust just ripping off the job but does anyone know any tricks as to keeping the velcro disc attached to the sander? mine fall off within 3-4 mins of sanding and are no longer sticking to the pad
2 afternoon's of sanding she was ready for a coat of resin today, one more coat probably on monday than i will be painting fingers crossed it turns out ok
not sure if to go gloss white or gloss off white also still trying to find out if i need the high build primer and normal primer with the top coat?
won lotto twice in 6 weeks using the same numbers here's hopping the big one gets called out soon
I will be using these paints for the whole boat painting, thee paints are Australia's first 2k paint's that are water based
Gazza, you need to work out how far forward your motor will tilt inboard when at full tilt to ensure that your pod has enough depth in it to ensure the motor does not hit the transom at full tilt. i think i made mine around 600 deep. i followed the existing contour of my hull with the pod shape which will give me full bouyancy. When you decide to do your stringers you will be able to extend them through your transom by cutting a hole in your transom and joining them to the back of your pod, giving it maximum strength..i think you will find the fairing compound that you can get from trojan easier to sand than what you have mixed youself..
Hey Cox some really good pointers than i appreciate u posting, i never actually thought about the outboard tilting up and the cowling hitting the transom thanks for bringing this to my attention I'm unsure how long my pod is but i was going to modify the design i think because i am going to bolt my pod on i want a wider pod from side to side, at this stage i really don't want to cut into my transom but extending the stringers the full length would make sense structurally but it just seems if i go that route i will be putting my self further back in build timeOriginally Posted by Cox76y
what's everyone's opinions on the pod? i really want to try one but i really can't afford to lose a 5k-6k engine in the drink, i thought about buying a aluminium pod from ebay but that will eat 1k into my outboard budget but i know it will be structurally sound
I have not done anymore to the boat i am doing a big umming and arring about the pod the biggest shit thing is all that hard work on my transom than come along the Etec and i contemplate chopping the transom down to a 25" transom i don't know if i really want to cut it down after all that bloody hard work and countless amount of hours to get where i am
Does anyone want to offer advice on something like this tube pod but make it from steel as i am capable of tig welding steel than getting it double dipped in galvanize? i chose steel as its relatively cheap, i can tig weld it piece of piss, it can be galvanized for salt water use, weight is not a problem something like this may weigh 10-12kg
a steel tube pod would be super strong reason not using stainless is its expensive and i don't know my welding ability i have never tig welded stainless before i also read welding SS is a cancer hazard
the one pictured is SS and is rated to 250hp or 300hp from memory but it cost like 2000 euros
With the steel tube pod, i wonder what kind of vibration would transfer to the transom? having impact on the small surface area where the bolts are mated to the transom. Also ive seen only one style of this pod before, it was on a nice runabout and the bloke has had it for sale for ages and ages, when you see something like this , you just walk away..... id play safe and throw you cash into the etec and bolt straight onto transom or settle for the pod on ebay.
Yeah i may strip the Etec over the weekend i need another set of hands or i need to fab a lift ring, unsure what thread Evinrude use for the lift ring but its a male thread previous one i used on the Evinrude 225 2 stroke was a female
Anyone know of a cheap shipping company to get this pod sent over from Perth to Sydney, one company wanted like $350 because its unboxed, E-Go said $86 if its in a box
you wont find anyone cheaper then E Go
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