Thanks Dig i thought gelcoat stays a gel for more coats but mine is rock hard with a gloss over the coating
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Yeah Digs it was meant to be gelcoat thats why i bought finishcoat later on i double checked the tin last night and it is gelcoat im using unsure why the gelcoat on the pod went rock hard and not tacky
I will give it a sand with #400 soon and see how it sands
Love the milk container resin and gelcoat idea i have used the same container 3 times over i was using painters cups before throwing awa $0.80c each mix, the fairing mix and gelcoat popped right out of the milk container
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Wet sanding done took about 30mins knocked most of the paint lumps down with a wooden block and #320 wet and dry, the wet paper with a drop of dish soap worked great
Forecast is rain today so i'll let the pod dry off today
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Found most of my hull rebuild receipts im in it for glassing supplies $1600 + hull $1000 + plywood $500 + one receipt im missing $420 resin
a lot of ####ing money bad move buying this hull im paying for it now but im committed
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On the other hand. When it’s finished and in perfect condition you can keep it for the next twenty years. Makes it a pretty good deal.
Sounds good like that Gunna but if i die a day after i test her i'll be rolling in my grave lol
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2 quarter days sanding and painting with gelcoat and she looks like this Attachment 121479Attachment 121480Attachment 121481Attachment 121482
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A few people were laughing at my first and second attempt at making a pod mould even saying wtf is that on the back of the boat but now its made they are not to be seen, the pod is not exillerating fantastic its just an average job nothing spectacular but i gave it a go and won this time..
If i am to ever make another pod i would raise the rear bottom and extend the back top up above the top section and make a 2 piece mould would look really snazzy
Now i know i can mould and have something come.out of a mould that looks ok it gives me confidence to put more time and effort in making a mould rather than 2 hours
If it can be done i'll try it
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Started painting inside today one more layer of finishcoat and shes done than time to finish off the water tankAttachment 121486Attachment 121487Attachment 121488
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Anyone got an idea on how to pressure test the water tank? I thought of welding on a little nipple and threading it for a push bike hand pump but the pump may lose air within its self
Worried if i use the air compressor i can lower the psi but i cant hold the pressure back at 4psi continously as there will be no valves to shut it off, if you have ever used a air compressor and a leak down tester you'll know what i mean
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Im thinking of placing the water tank where it was positioned for a fuel tank i'll have a bulkhead in front of the water tank than a 1600mm fuel tank area
I was just going to weld on one small bit of pipe and run a hose up to the new splashwell and have a plug or lid something like that
Im unsure how deck wash pumps work if they self siphon or need to be submerged in the tank i will have to look that up
Had a massive screw up this afternoon didnt mix enough mekp into the finishcoat im hopping with the shed closed it warms up enough tomorrow to cure the finishcoat or i donno how to fix it, i applied it 6 hours ago and its still wet
I actually hope there is not different mekp hardeners as i used the mekp that came with the gelcoat and not the one that cane with the finishcoat
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Weld a threaded bung fitting onto the tank for the filler. Then drill a hole in the cap and fit a valve stem to it. Inflate using a bike pump or very gently with a compressor for 4 psi. If it tests ok, buy a second cap, swap them over and done.
Most deckwash pumps are self priming.
Worst case with a dud mix is scrape it off and go again. Nothing structural at this stage so not much lost. Just more time on the sandpaper.
Thanks CT i'll do that ebay sells 1" 25mm weld on necks with caps
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