Vintage Inboard Cruisers to Centre Console Conversion

[gazza2006au]

Steve it has been playing on my mind if my transom can hold a pod greatly so i opted out of the deal and told the seller to sell it to the other guy that was in Perth who also wanted it

i guess i will just cut my transom down, i really do want a pod i just don't know the strength of my fiberglassing i should know once this build is done tho weather that 130hp stays on the back

[gazza2006au]

A bit more work done this isn't an easy task rebuilding a boat and finding the time to work on it its actually a massive job on a boat of this size, roughly 4 months in and i am still working on the transom, today i made the cut and cut it out to suit the extra long shaft E-Tec 130hp next step is to round off the corners and cap the cut out of the transom than paint it

i took a few pictures just before it pissed down raining i was lucky to get all the tools in the shed before the storm hit as i was planning on putting down a thin layer of resin over the cut but that isn't happening today

in the pic's u can see how jolly i was with the laminating it was so thick it took me an hour to cut out the outboard section i burnt 2 blades on the jig saw it was a mission

contemplating gluing blocks on the back of the transom on both sides for transducers and bait pumps etc.. while i still can what's your thoughts? i really only want to drill the main holes for the engine mounting nothing else thru the transom

cost of this project to date is around $3750 including the E-Tec i bought

[catshark]

id say 4 months in and doing a sterling job, looking very solid and l wouldnt be doing the glue on block thing, it will stand out like dogs biscuits when your finished, youll just want to rip it back off, drill drill drill and keep it simple, it will look a treat with a lick of paint.

[blacklab]

gazza, Looking great !
I'm in the same boat as you, I didn't do my own transom, but, once they are all done like that and un drilled, it's hard to put a drill near it !
I see now, for sale are these block systems, which are glued on to the transom, which you then attach your transducer or the likes to them.
I've seen guys do it them selves before with success out of that white bait board stuff, just urathaned on, but I have seen the end result when they come flying off as well. Blue Bottle have them, they come in different sized blocks and they are designed to be epoxy stuck, which comes in the packet. I googled this product up and they have been using it in the U.S for 10 odd years successfully, it shows how to install them.
I think it's just that pd white board stuff, then its an epoxy fit. I like the idea of such a system, no holes and seems easy enough to fit up.
I understand that if done properly, drilling is fine, but I'll probably go with the mentioned system, seems like the go to me.
Mine has been a complete nightmare of a job, was stitched up by the first fibre glass bloke and the second took over 12 months and changed everything around to what I asked for. His quality of work in finishing was shocking. I picked it up while it was fair pouring down, when home and safely inside in the dry, found his paint work of the engine well area had lemon peeled finish, didn't fill all the old holes just painted. Transom finish was ok, but as rough as guts,,, really disapointing, he wont take any of my calls, so I've cut my losses and now set on repairing his shite work myself.. Would of, or should of had a go myself like your doing, but doubted my skills, especially structural with the transom and stringers.
Enjoyed your thread any way gazza, keep up the good work mate........

Col

[brett62]

gazza with my stern I will be making blocks up and glassing them on the stern. I will be shaping them with curves and gelcoating so they will be part of the stern. If you are going to do the same you are at the perfect time to do it before you paint/gelcoat. I should have thought about the transducers before and it's going to be a little more work now, so if you are doing it,do it now.

[scottar]

If you really want absolutely no screws into the transom then yes - but make the blocks full height up the transom or at least to the point above water line where you will go through the transom with the cable so you can screw in some sort of cable securing devices. Personal thing but IMO a cable that isn't straight up the transom or just floats around in the breeze basically stuffs a neat install. Also consider blocks for trim tabs if they are on your agenda and also external tank scoops if not going with through hull fittings.

[gazza2006au]

id say 4 months in and doing a sterling job, looking very solid and l wouldnt be doing the glue on block thing, it will stand out like dogs biscuits when your finished, youll just want to rip it back off, drill drill drill and keep it simple, it will look a treat with a lick of paint.

Thanks Cat its not easy work mate doing it by your self its a huge job especially trying to lift that 3 layer of transom of furniture grade plywood in by your self it was very hard than all those layers of glass its tiring but i am getting somewhere for now

gazza, Looking great !
I'm in the same boat as you, I didn't do my own transom, but, once they are all done like that and un drilled, it's hard to put a drill near it !
I see now, for sale are these block systems, which are glued on to the transom, which you then attach your transducer or the likes to them.
I've seen guys do it them selves before with success out of that white bait board stuff, just urathaned on, but I have seen the end result when they come flying off as well. Blue Bottle have them, they come in different sized blocks and they are designed to be epoxy stuck, which comes in the packet. I googled this product up and they have been using it in the U.S for 10 odd years successfully, it shows how to install them.
I think it's just that pd white board stuff, then its an epoxy fit. I like the idea of such a system, no holes and seems easy enough to fit up.
I understand that if done properly, drilling is fine, but I'll probably go with the mentioned system, seems like the go to me.
Mine has been a complete nightmare of a job, was stitched up by the first fibre glass bloke and the second took over 12 months and changed everything around to what I asked for. His quality of work in finishing was shocking. I picked it up while it was fair pouring down, when home and safely inside in the dry, found his paint work of the engine well area had lemon peeled finish, didn't fill all the old holes just painted. Transom finish was ok, but as rough as guts,,, really disapointing, he wont take any of my calls, so I've cut my losses and now set on repairing his shite work myself.. Would of, or should of had a go myself like your doing, but doubted my skills, especially structural with the transom and stringers.
Enjoyed your thread any way gazza, keep up the good work mate........

Col

Bugger Col, I looked around for a company to do my boat i think i sent of pictures to 2 people, 1 was a shop who never got back to me and the 2nd was a guy that wanted to come out to my house to do the work he wanted from memory to do the whole boat for $2000 including everything needed all the plywood and resin i was really sus on the quality of work a guy would do for $2000 as it cost me $1000 in materials just to do my transom

its a shame in this day and age we have shaddy people in all kinds of businesses it to them is just a get rich fast scam and guys like you and i get let in the dark its a greedy world mate everything is about money

gazza with my stern I will be making blocks up and glassing them on the stern. I will be shaping them with curves and gelcoating so they will be part of the stern. If you are going to do the same you are at the perfect time to do it before you paint/gelcoat. I should have thought about the transducers before and it's going to be a little more work now, so if you are doing it,do it now.

Hey Brett i am contemplating it once the pumps, pickups and transducers are bolted on i think it would be alright i just don't want it to look dicky

[gazza2006au]

I just scrolled back i have been working on the boat for 5 and a half months, i was just talking with a mate one i go fishing with and he reckons i should give up the project and keep my little boat, i said the big boat only needs the stringers put in, floor put down than a console built plus i need to glass in the splashwell and shes done

I am still keen as mustard to power on, i have no boat building experience so it is taking a lot of time researching on ways to do things, what products to use and how to use them i have screwed up here and there but over come the hurdles and boundaries

sure a transom could take a bloke 2 weeks to install but when i only have 2-3 hours a afternoon to work on the boat it doesn't give me much time to knock it over

i took on this project knowing it was going to be a total overhaul as i didn't have $5000 cash to lay out on a boat with solid transom, floor and stringers or i may have had the boat on the water but by doing my complete overhaul i know what i have in the end and know it won't be rotted and rooted in 12 months after initial maiden voyage

donno what my mate is thinking if he could knock this over in 6 months a full rebuild only utilizing 2-3 hours a day minus all those days its raining and u cannot fibreglass

anyone thinking the same as me?

also on the stringers my original's were 25mm does anyone see a problem using 42mm my keel is around 285mm at its deepest section the kiln dried timber comes in 290x42mm i am thinking of going with timber over plywood as its a little cheaper, there are no seems and its what was originally in the boat

[Cox76y]

Gazza,
I used 50mm laminated beams for my stringers. You can buy them in long lengths so no joining is required and they are much stronger than plywood. For the top of your transom I would recommend rounding your edges and glassing up the transom over the top and down the other side with an overlap of around 30mm over your existing glass. By putting resin only on top as you suggested it will be subject to cracking and water again will get into your transom. Glass by itself is subject to cracking. I note you have already faired the transom so obviously grinding back where this new glass will lay will mean less fairing again when the glass is put down.. Just my thoughts..
regards
Josh

[catshark]

i used to worry when building my house, when will i get this done or when will that be finished. in the end it gets done. ive learnt that things will get done eventually.. if you have the desire to finish the goal you started. As for your mates talking you out of the project , well thats for you to decide and often listening to the naysayers can impact your thinking. you have multiple projects on the go so time is spread thin across your builds. soon it will be daylight savings anyhow. i wonder if bruce harris mates told him to give up his first prototype woodmade sharkcat.

[catshark]

would stringers made of fibreglass or other lighter material be used. like some sought of composite .i suppose timber would be cheaper though.

[gazza2006au]

Gazza,
I used 50mm laminated beams for my stringers. You can buy them in long lengths so no joining is required and they are much stronger than plywood. For the top of your transom I would recommend rounding your edges and glassing up the transom over the top and down the other side with an overlap of around 30mm over your existing glass. By putting resin only on top as you suggested it will be subject to cracking and water again will get into your transom. Glass by itself is subject to cracking. I note you have already faired the transom so obviously grinding back where this new glass will lay will mean less fairing again when the glass is put down.. Just my thoughts..
regards
Josh

Awesome mate i have found some hard timber but its a little expensive also soft timber in 42mm i will go with that i need 5 meter lengths my longest keel stringer is 4.8 meters, yeah i was going to remove the talc/glue/bog/fairing mix around the cut out and i am going to glass it in i just wanted the first layer to be resin on its own so it soaks into the plywood transom than i was going to lightly sand than glass over with cloth the resin on its own was just a little extra added security

i used to worry when building my house, when will i get this done or when will that be finished. in the end it gets done. ive learnt that things will get done eventually.. if you have the desire to finish the goal you started. As for your mates talking you out of the project , well thats for you to decide and often listening to the naysayers can impact your thinking. you have multiple projects on the go so time is spread thin across your builds. soon it will be daylight savings anyhow. i wonder if bruce harris mates told him to give up his first prototype woodmade sharkcat.

Yeah i could really do without hearing it the negativity i don't need ay i am really enjoying the build this is like me building my dream boat will will have fora long time and its a one off chance i have to make it happen so i really want to continue with the project i was surprised to hear it from my mate actually

would stringers made of fibreglass or other lighter material be used. like some sought of composite .i suppose timber would be cheaper though.

I could go that option i looked at getting pre made stringers from the USA near the start of this build but i have no clue as to how to use or install them or even where to put them there were just to many questions so i,have planned on going with timber, i thought about the all glass stringers but it wouldmean a lot more effort and supplies going into it and a lot more money i think the timber is quick and easy

[gazza2006au]

I have a question about my keel stringer i need to work out if my hull is sagging, pic one shows how my keel stringer thins out towards the back of the hull this is how my boat is sitting now on the trailer, pic two is this how my keel stringer should be one height all the way along?

i am planning on getting it ready to do the stringers but i want to know if i have a hooked hull or if my hull is sagging on the keel rollers

[stevej]

dont give up other wise we have another gazza dead thread with 100 pages

ignore all the distractions like the etec etc and just focus on getting the hull done
then the trailer
then worry about a engine but just pick a shaft length and find a engine later

tbh you should have just kept that bowden ply boat you were making

[Fed]

I'd run a string line along the hull to confirm there's no hook or rocker then install the new bits the same height as the original ones were installed.
That's assuming I understand your question.