Vintage Inboard Cruisers to Centre Console Conversion

[gazza2006au]

Steve do u have any experience with cloths and epoxy?

Your stiffness comes from the fibreglass if i took a strip 10mm thick of woven roving/epoxy and tried to bend and touch the ends it would snap

If i took a strip of double bias/epoxy 10mm thick i could touch both ends i couldtwist it turn it all day long and it wont break

[stevej]

Your response to me is to question my experience yet you ignore everyone else telling you not to do it the way you have

Yes I’ve rebuilt two boats motorcycle fairings and race car body panels and I know you patch both sides and tbh it isn’t patching you take it right back and patch 3-4 times the size of the hole trying to make the as strong as possible with no defined edge
Doing it from one side gives very thin bond

Thinking water pressure will strengthen the repair is just absurd

You can see flexing in the hull if you ever put the boat on the lawn you can see flexing in any hull

As I said why keep justifying not fixing it properly with arguments with others
Just drop the topic and continue on with how you plan to do it

[shortthenlong]

Guysnah i really dont want to cut up my floor those hatcheswill look really out of place and bodged

The way im seeing it the sea wster can only push against the patch meaning push the patch against the hull so long as i prep it good and roll out the air really there shouldnt be anyway water could forcefully peel it off as its all force just pushing the laminate on harder

You aren't thinking about it enough so I drew some pictures. If you were just floating the boat on a still pool of water then the forces may only be acting directly against the patch.

Gaz at rest.jpg

However once you start driving the boat, and add in the effects of waves, launching and retrieving as well as trailering your patch is now being acted on by forces from all angles. I drew another picture of it moving
moving.jpg

As stated above you are taking a big punt on something you saw on Youtube. How will your plastic bag trick work when you are dealing with gravity before the patch cures.

Cheers Matt

[Noelm]

It can be "patched" from the outside, a full permanent "repair" requires both sides to be done, if done properly it will be OK, but it's hard to get enough thickness to get a good finish. I reckon I would block the hole up with a "plug" of chopped strand as best I could, leaving some space for the next layer to adhere to it, but then, I am just a home handyman too.

[baitable]

Applying carpentry principles you could do the following. Drill a larger hole using a hole saw ie 54mm. Then epoxy glue a bracing strut to the upper floor or surrounding stringers along with a perimeter back block set maybe 4-5mm inwards around the hole, leave the strut long protruding out of the hole. Now use the same hole saw to cut a "filler piece" out of new fibreglass. Whatever this filler piece thickness, cut the strut back shy. Now glue the new filler piece into the back block and apply epoxy glue liberally to the strut which will act as a support for you filler piece. You can now fibreglass the area and blend in from the positive side. You should end up with very strong patch provided your back blocks and supporting strut are done right.

There you have it, a structural repair without ripping up the floor to glass from both sides.

[Noelm]

How about this, make a slightly tapered wooden "plug" cut to length so when hammered into the hole it finishes just lower than the surrounding surface, cover the plug in epoxy, bang it in tight, then repair it from the outside with cloth?

[disorderly]

Here's a tip that may save your life when your patchs fall off the HMAS Gazza.

Your welcome..

leaky boat.jpg

[billfisher]

Guysnah i really dont want to cut up my floor those hatcheswill look really out of place and bodged

The way im seeing it the sea wster can only push against the patch meaning push the patch against the hull so long as i prep it good and roll out the air really there shouldnt be anyway water could forcefully peel it off as its all force just pushing the laminate on harder

Just cut a section out then glass it back in again. You can screw wood around the edges for the cut section to sit on. It's only an hour or two more work compared to putting a port in. I don't think a port hole would be large enough to work on the inside of the hull. I wouldn't trust an outside patch. You were even worried about it sinking a few posts ago - repairing from the outside would be a good way to achieve that. .

[CT]

Just cut a section out then glass it back in again. You can screw wood around the edges for the cut section to sit on. It's only an hour or two more work compared to putting a port in. I don't think a port hole would be large enough to work on the inside of the hull. I wouldn't trust an outside patch. You were even worried about it sinking a few posts ago - repairing from the outside would be a good way to achieve that. .

I can't believe it's even up for debate. The floor comes up and you fix it properly.

Either than or HMAS cluster####

[bluefin59]

Wow it’s certainly enlightening why I would NEVER buy a fibreglass hull without knowing it’s pedigree,personally unqualified people could cost some poor innocent prick his life with this sort of crap . Matt

[Mopheus]

If this seems like a pile-on Gazza, it's because there's only one right way to fix this - from the inside. Wear the pain now rather than never being able to trust the hull at sea.

[gazza2006au]

How about this, make a slightly tapered wooden "plug" cut to length so when hammered into the hole it finishes just lower than the surrounding surface, cover the plug in epoxy, bang it in tight, then repair it from the outside with cloth?

I'll run with that idea Noel sounds perfect, i'll need to pick up a small piece of hardwood to carry out the repair

I owned a Stegcraft 20 years ago i put it on the trailer skewed and punched a 10cent hole in the hull almost in the same location as this hull i had no fibreglass experience i bought a fibreglass kit for $25 from the hardware house and applied 1 layer of chopped mat over the hole straight over the gelcoat and all and that heldup for many many trips after the repair even a3 day stint than a offshore run the last morning

I really think thisholes repair is simple it just needs good preperation

[Noelm]

Making the plug just right might take a bit of fiddling around, but it's about the only way I can see a long term patch working, make sure it's a tight fit.

[catshark]

Sadly today marks 2 years since i have had a fish, heres the port kembla snappers we caught i previously had the video set to private but i just made it public

From vauge memory 2 came on board 37cm and 42cm the one in the video was 37cm i caught absolute fa had to rerig 7 times

https://m.facebook.com/story.php?sto...1&id=765484190

well your getting closer to get back into it, but now you will have the opportunity to go past snapper grounds and jig for kings /albacore/ dollys , blue water stuff, when your finished and youre heading out , why not treat yourself to a nice new reel say something like a penn fathom 25 , jigging away quietly there reflecting on the grind of the build, then the silence is broken of a screaming reel of line peeling out at a great rate of knots , oh yeah

[gazza2006au]

Yeah Noel i will likely cut out a 30mm hole and use the grinder to bevel the edge i'll than knock it into the hole tightly with glue let it cure than sand down the face enought to get atlease 10 layers of 400g double bias over the top

I am considering a Stella Cat u live once, but to pay off a Stella i would need some bills cleared for the 2 months foward as the afterpay will cost a few hundred bux