I was thinking of asking the welder to weld flat bar to both sides of the butt weld
I think leaving the back of the trailer as is and extending or making a whole new draw bar is the best option, unless you are going to sand blast and regalvanise, any welding on the back will see rust set in very fast, even if you cold gal and paint, it will rust.
I was looking to replace the draw bar because it is tiny but do u think it would look odd with a long draw bar? i was going to get it dipped in acid than re-galvanized
I'm about to go repair the transom plywood now i will hold off on the pics untill its all properly glued into the boat
If there is any rust at all on the trailer, it will need to be blasted, they acid dip anyway before galvanising, but it will not clean off rust, well, not proper rust anyway.
That looks like a lot of trailer for a 5M boat Gazza, have you run a tape measure over it & compared it to your Baron?
Ah bugger this is why the guy in Newcastle said he couldn't do it because he cannot blast inside the steel tubing, the other companies i called said they will dip it in acid to clean off the old gal than re-gal itOriginally Posted by Noelm
I was kind of thinking the same thing, but thought maybe it was just how the photos made it look.
Hey Fed yeah i measured from the V block to the rear cross member it measures 4.5m than the roller arm brings it out to around 4.75-4.8m so it should fit a 5m boat, my boat as it sits is 5.5m but with a pod will likely be 6-6.1m
I think this is how i messed up on the first transom install i have never seen anyone round the edges on there new plywood before installing it tho (pic drawn is looking from up above the boat down on top of the boat)
Found this info on re-gal a boat trailer
What do I need to know if I want to refurbish my boat trailer?We get a lot of enquiries about refurbishing boat trailers. There are three main considerations for you:
1. Cost: Redoing old trailers is usually cheaper than a new one, but some things to save you money: a). If you mix galvanized and painted materials, there will be a surcharge on each of these adding to the cost – keep all the steel coatings the same to save money. b). Inside hollow sections there is often a lot of rust that reacts adversely with the zinc and you end up with heaps of zinc stuck inside that adds to the weight and so costs you more – banging the frame about a bit to dislodge this will help. c). Blasted trailers will cost less. d) Hartway is able to give you a rate per meter of trailer if you do not know what the weight is.
2. The final product: The quality of the coating will be heaps better than your old one, but will never rival a brand new trailer – we are galvanizers and not genies! Getting rid of the internal rust, replacing old pitted surfaces and putting the required drain holes in will give you a good protective coating.
3. Preparing your trailer: a). Take off all tyres, winches, axles, springs, nuts, bolts, brackets, tow hitches, wiring and any aluminium tags – if you leave them on they will either get frozen in zinc or melt off into the bath. Speak to us if you need to drag the trailer to us and then use the space in our yard to work on it. b). Clean as much of the surface contaminants off it before it gets to the galvanizer – flakey rust, old paint jobs – note: don’t remove stickers – leave them on so we can grind them off(the invisible glue underneath them is our worst enemy and the sticker shows us where to grind).
yes, blasting will be OK, but inside will just become a mess of slag and gal, just had a close look at the trailer, it will need blasting if you are going to regalvanise it, you could probably do a cheap job and grind the bad rust off and cold gal, paint and fish oil, but, it will come back.
The place I have got galvanising done in Port Kembla has a blasting place next door which is very handy, my last trailer I just towed in in there with nothing like rollers and stuff on it, pulled it to bits in their yard, and they fork lifted it away, blasted it and took it next door to the galvanising place for me, I dropped off all the bits and pieces myself after it was done.
You definitely want a nice fit with no gaps.
Thanks Noel, I might use a wire brush on the rust than paint it and sell the trailer than try make an alloy one i have a 50 ton press frame i was turning into a hydraulic press using a truck jack but i would need to fab some dies, i have contacted a alloy welder i was quoted $450 to weld the baisc A frame and use bolt on cross members and the aluminium cost were going to be around $1000 than i have either trailer to strip for drive train
Yeah the transom was a screw up i should have test fitted it half a dozen times before trying to glue it in just it weighs something like 50kg and i can't lift that to head height by my self i also don't have any stringers to push with car jacks against the transom either so its a difficult one
Everything is ready to dry fit the transom again but no one to help i have been sending msg's to my cousin but no replies so i think i'm on my own for this one, i may have to use the engine crane to lift the transom into the boat
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