Oh dear
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I would have stayed with layers of ply, a fraction of the price, just as good and can be picked up at a hardware store.
Oh dear
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One piece would be better for strength. 4 is going into unknown territory. If you must do it in pieces make the joins overlapping. Also thermolite is not as strong as plywood. Haines Signature only gives a 5 year warranty for thermolite made boats compared to 10 years for plywood (from memory).
Just thinking way outside the box here, is it possible to get a piece of form ply, or melamine and lay some gelcoat on it, then some glass and a layer of ply (kind of making a flat mould) that way, the outside would be flat and smooth? Then just continue to laminate the transom, except the outside layer is "finished"
Just to add (and I have absolutely no idea) but making the transom in "pieces" does not sound easy or advisable, but I could be wrong, not being negative, just throwing things out there.
it cant be stronger, cancel the order and buy 12mm ply as advised by guys who know how to fiberglass
i used 2 12mm sheets for my transom with 2 layers of glass in between for a 40mm thickness
There is nothing wrong with piecing the transom core together from what i can see it has been done for a while there are olenty of examples over the internet
The dry plywood on my transom was bloody strong trying to rip it out but apparently thermolite is a lot stronger
I will put 6 or 8 laters of glass over it on the outside it should be ok
My core will be 50mm thick plus the skins = strong
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Thanks for everyones advice i appreciate it just i put so much time and effort into that plywood transom u even done the 10mm skin at .45mm each layer it was so time consuming i just dont want a repeat again
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After seeing my transom some may recall back to january/febuary this year the boat got flooded and there was around 500L in between my stringers one stringer was glassed and i drilled a hole in the stringer to drain the water i have been shiiting my self after seeing the transom thinking my one glassed stringer may be the same
I just drilled a 12mm hole in the stringer 100-150mm forward of that drain hole i drilled back in the flood and very happy to say the wood that came out of the stringer was crispy so thats a relief!!!
As for the transom being 4 pieces i will need to over lap my joints or try my best to but even with 4 cuts and a 10mm skin of 600 gram woven roving will be f..... strong just think back to that 20mm solid woven roving laminate i done that my 20 ton hydraulic press couldnt snap!!!! 10mm skin will be plenty strong
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Gazza, I would have just gone ply, you would have been better at it the second time.
BUT, did you ask that bloke that you got the Thermolite off about joining it in pieces ???
He would be the bloke to ask, maybe do that to confirm before you start yeah...
I like most here I suspect, have had jack all to do with thermolite, so before we give rash uneducated advice, let the expert instruct.
I've seen this blokes work and a few videos he's produced with the actual manufacturer, He's the agent I believe for it..
So, give Adam a call or a message Gazza ( I think that's his name) and run this by him, that's imperative !!!!!!
Col
Hey Col i spoke with a distributer last night on FB he said u could piece coosa board but not thermolite to me its the same stuff
But just to check i'll call CCA now
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CCA not answering so i called Trojan Fibreglass the guys who sell the thermolite he said its perfectly fine to piece together the transom
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I think it was more of a instock and what they mostly sold kinda thing Noel, thermolite is what the bloke had but i asked about pvc corelite and was told i would need to consult a shipwrite
The actual stuff i bought is called Kaycel from Trojan Fibreglass and thats who i called to confirm i could piece together the core
So should be all good
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This is the kaycel stuff i bought its thermolite but that shop owns the brand name kaycel and has renamed it
https://trojanfibreglass.com.au/product/kay-cel-core/
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