Only until your fork runs flat - then the shoe will be on the other footOriginally Posted by Crunchy
. I've tried pushing them - they're bloody heavy.
I have recently bought one of these and paired it as a mobile battery for the car or boat with redarc dc to dc charger.
After a bit of reading, it seems redarc initially did not recommend their charge algorithms for these, but then after testing, ultimately now endorse the standard agm setting as suitable.
So if redarc are recommending their agm setting, I would say that's close to right. I can't recall the voltage, but it is on their website.
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What's the idea behind that Darren?I have recently bought one of these and paired it as a mobile battery for the car or boat with redarc dc to dc charger.
Aux batt for fridge etc?
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Off topic a bit.But if your charger won't start the charge cycle due to it being to flat simply hook another battery in sequence (that has charge) and disconnect after a minute or so.
Sorry - just saw the query.
It is for a typical auxiliary battery that you would normally set up.
Fridge/freezer in the car when needed (removable slide etc so it does not live there 100% of the time).
The same fridge goes to the boat also occasionally, so I can take the battery with it and connect to an Andersen plug there if I don't want to rely on the start batteries (which there are 2 anyway). Thus giving a third auxiliary battery on the boat when I choose to take it.
Boat has two motors with separate batteries, however one runs the house electronics. Technically I can rely on the second in emergencies, but for longer trips it would be nice to keep the fridge off the main start battery circuits all together. I was tossing up an option to isolate the house from the start battery and then be able to power them separately via an Andersen plug supply patched from the mobile auxiliary also... Maybe overkill, but if you were anchored up with electronics running overnight etc, it might be good piece of mind.
For the price of the batteries (plus DC-DC charger), I found it hard to justify buying and maintaining 2 expensive batteries properly, when I can simply move one from use to use. May be different if you used them in the car and boat regularly, thus 2 being viable.
Interestingly the Landcrusier has 2 65AH start batteries (acting as one) which powers the fridge for 24 hours. Thus the boat with 2 x 125AH batteries available for starting should be fine. But having separation gives a nice feeling if your off alone away from help.
My experiement with lead crystal battery hasn't ended too well....it no longer wants to hold or accept a charge......it has three weeks left of warantee but the retailer said the supplier has changed hands and the new supplier is not probably not going to honour the warrantee "But good luck" (I have yet to call the supplier). They still sell this battery (Supplier) but with a 1 year rather than 3 years warrantee and now only covers manufacturing defects.....apparently according to the retailer lots of returns! (Retailer no longer sells them).
Don't buy a lead-crystal battery - expensive and from my experience they don't last!
Thats not so good. Mine are still going ok. However one is about to hit 3 years. I am not convinced they hold a charge as well as when new, but I would not say they are drastically less. They still seem to charge up to 12.8v. My charging is through a Redarc 25A DC-DC charger. I wonder if it is exactly right for them, but Redarc say they are ok. I was hoping they wpuld have a slightly extended life, but we wil see.
I would also say that while running them low may not damage them, voltage still drops off unlike a lithium, so I am not sure they get an effective extended depth of discharge compared to other deep cycle type batteries.
My replacement will likely be lithium...
I investigated these two years ago.....I could not find a suitable charger for them.
The critical part of the charging is high volts and high amps in a multi stage charger.
The manufacturers clearly state that unless those two parameters were met the life span if the battery will be shortened.
The fact that redarc ok's their charger for the battery does not make sense because it does not meet those parameters and will cause a short life span. I see that as negligence at the chance of the sale of a battery charger at the cost of the battery being charged.
Jack.
that’s exactly it mate…… by little c-tek did the job for a few years buts its not the right charger, but I couldn’t source one!
These lead crystal batteries never really took off in the market ....... when say compared to LiFePO4 which offered what the
LC batteries did but with a significant weight reduction .
The other point is that the technology hasn't been widely adopted by notable battery manufacturers ….
Chris
Give a man a fish & he will eat for a day !
Teach him how to fish
& he will sit in a boat - & drink beer all day!
TEAM MOJIKO
yeah, apply the voltage until it screams " enough!"No, but seriously, on the subject of applying higher than normal charging voltage to a flat battery, it will actually work if the battery is still serviceable. Twice now, for various reasons, I've had dead flat completely discharged batteries that would not respond to any chargers, smart or old-style. My local auto electrician has an old variable power supply that he uses for this. He'll connect up, crank the output up to, IIRC, 30 volts, then watch for current flow. It usually doesn't take long, as the current starts to rise he'll slowly reduce the voltage until it is back to 14 volts and showing current flow. It can then be placed on any style of charger to complete the job. Obviously cannot resurrect failure like a dead cell, but, for inadvertant complete discharge, it's great.
I was thinking about the lead crystal batteries a while ago but the charging requirements gave me a concern, not to mention there is not a lot of info/reviews about them yet so decided I wouldn't risk it.
Speaking of batteries I just pulled my old battery out of the boat yesterday to get it tested and turns out I have to replace it, it is a 1100 CCA 135A AGM battery and it charged up OK but only was putting out 55CCA on the test, probably a dropped cell in it. It was after all 4.75 years old though. It seemed to work OK but after I started the motor I would get a warning low voltage alarm on the MFD.
BCF did a price match on the Batteries Direct special price and instead of the usual $293.99 I ended up getting it for $211 on a lay-by this morning which I will pick up in a fortnight, I checked out a CAT 175-4390 battery but even with a 15% discount it was about $50 dearer than the Century battery's reduced price, but CAT only offer a 12mth warranty verses the 2 years on the Century, so that was the deciding factor.
Ed.
I also looked at Lead Crystal batteries when this was first raised. There was only one supplier in Australia and none of the main battery places would even consider sourcing one as they all said "too temper mental". I also avoid batteries with Calcium as they've failed me twice in a very short period of time, I was led to believe they don't like being discharged below 12.25 Volts and it would void the warranty if that was the case. Didn't matter , didn't want another one. I'll be in the market shortly for a new crank battery, still tossing up on which one to get.
I thought the retailer was responsible for warranties, you should be able to drop the battery on his counter and say call me when it's sorted.
Pro rata could be the nigger in the woodpile though.
FWIW I'm buying my next battery from Bunnings they are very good to deal with when it comes to returns.
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