How high to lift the motor

[Dignity]

There ya go Sam,
Took me just 2 mins to draw the motor for illustration purposes only
Tony would've drawn it quicker
Attachment 116104

Apologies for the Disagree post, fat fingers 😠

[Dignity]

Obviously I'm no boat builder, but is it feasible to add on to your existing motor pod in the downwards direction ? So the pod and main hull/keel are on the same level.
That would change the dynamics in your favour I think ?
The add on wouldn't have to be structural to support the motor because that structure is already there. The add on only has to extend the hull.


Saltwater fishing, boat mad but has a job that gets in the way.

Yes, that can be done but the motor is currently a 25 inch leg, I would have to put a longer shafted, modify the water exhaust etc and the leg would sit lower still, I wouldn't be able to trim the leg all the way down at home which I prefer to stop the trim rams from pitting. Also I suspect with another 112mm I would still need to raise the motor. Reducing the motor to a 20 inch shaft as suggested to me privately by another AF member would work also but this still keeps the motor very close to the water. I wonder why the old 2 stroke wasn't such a problem.

[552Evo]

Ok got it.
It seems no matter which way you go to there's going to be $$ involved.



Saltwater fishing, boat mad but has a job that gets in the way.

[Back In Black]

Apologies for the Disagree post, fat fingers 

Nah Sam, deep down you really wanted to hit the disagree button.

Quite understandable when Robs involved................

[Chris Tucker]

I'm assuming that right now the engine is on the bottom set of holes (as high as it can go). That means you have a 50-55mm gap between the top of then pod transom and the engine bracket flange. We also know that the engine has to go up. Glue a 70mm timber doubler on top of the pod transom and then cover the whole thing with a couple of layers of glass lapped front and back. There is only half a days work in the job (although it'll take a few by the time you allow for curing of resins and paints. This will let you lift the engine between 15 and 70mm above its current location and when you go to sell the boat people wont even give it a second look.

[Smithy]

Have you taken it to Al in Allen St Moffat Beach for his assessment?

[Dignity]

Have you taken it to Al in Allen St Moffat Beach for his assessment?

Yes mate, spoken to him a couple of times, he is all for a new pod but one that is level with the bottom of the hull, that means extending the motor leg even lower. Although talking to him today he may go with a modification similar to what Chris is talking about. I have 2 issues, I need to get the motor away from the wash and lift the cave plate higher so a mod is probably the way and there are several ways. I'd like to take the pod off as on close inspection there are stress fractures appearing where it is bolted to the transom. I remember when Allison were still around I enquired on how to access the nuts on several of the lower bolts, turns out these are large coach screws, if I go the way of removing the pod then I would need to put some inspection holes in the sides of the kill tank so that on replacement I can use bolts and nuts. Nothing about this boat has ever been straightforward. I will probably work on Mojoes suggestion first to work out how high I need to go and do some testing (Rob you might have another boat living in your shed for a bit) then get the pod modified.

This wind has played havoc with your fishing Smithy, a couple of times been down at Kawana and seen Capricorn at her moorings.

[Moejoes]

Geezzzz Sam,
You send me a dislike then want to use my shed????

Yes mate, spoken to him a couple of times, he is all for a new pod but one that is level with the bottom of the hull, that means extending the motor leg even lower. Although talking to him today he may go with a modification similar to what Chris is talking about. I have 2 issues, I need to get the motor away from the wash and lift the cave plate higher so a mod is probably the way and there are several ways. I'd like to take the pod off as on close inspection there are stress fractures appearing where it is bolted to the transom. I remember when Allison were still around I enquired on how to access the nuts on several of the lower bolts, turns out these are large coach screws, if I go the way of removing the pod then I would need to put some inspection holes in the sides of the kill tank so that on replacement I can use bolts and nuts. Nothing about this boat has ever been straightforward. I will probably work on Mojoes suggestion first to work out how high I need to go and do some testing (Rob you might have another boat living in your shed for a bit) then get the pod modified.

This wind has played havoc with your fishing Smithy, a couple of times been down at Kawana and seen Capricorn at her moorings.

[Dignity]

Geezzzz Sam,
You send me a dislike then want to use my shed????

Old man syndrome 😠, trouble is once accidently hit can't take it back.

[Noelm]

I think a nice thick alloy plate is the way to go, use existing holes, that way if it doesn't work, you can just put it back how it was.

[Dignity]

I think a nice thick alloy plate is the way to go, use existing holes, that way if it doesn't work, you can just put it back how it was.

If only that simple, to put a plate on I would need to drill an extra set of lower holes in the pod and the old holes plugged, both original top and bottom ones, also the plate would need to be as wide as the pod and additional holes to the side of the motor mounting bracket used. I most probably will go down that pathway after a test run using Mojoes method, although it will have to wait till I get back from Charters Towers.

[Noelm]

No, I "helped" make a plate just like you need, the plate is held to the pod using existing method (bolt holes) the top motor mounting bolts are above the pod, and use normal nuts and bolts, the bottom motor holes are tapped into the alloy plate and blind bolts are used, the plate we used was about 20mm thick, and has a 250 HP motor bolted to it that is still in use after about 5 years!

[Fed]

Was the old 1971 150hp a long shaft 20" & now you have a 25" Extra Long shaft?
Without looking it up I didn't think they had 25" shafts back in 1971.

[Dignity]

No, I "helped" make a plate just like you need, the plate is held to the pod using existing method (bolt holes) the top motor mounting bolts are above the pod, and use normal nuts and bolts, the bottom motor holes are tapped into the alloy plate and blind bolts are used, the plate we used was about 20mm thick, and has a 250 HP motor bolted to it that is still in use after about 5 years!

I might have to have a discussion with you on my return.

[Dignity]

Was the old 1971 150hp a long shaft 20" & now you have a 25" Extra Long shaft?
Without looking it up I didn't think they had 25" shafts back in 1971.

Fed, you're asking me to remember something from 4 years or more ago, I can't remember yesterday. To be honest I know that the old motor didn't seem to get as buried as this one and I have no idea of the shaft length, I do recall that I didn't have as many problems with the skeg hitting the ramp with the old 2 stroker so maybe I might investigate the conversion back to a 20 inch shaft although the higher I can get the motor above the water the happier I will be, including my mechanic.