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  1. #1
    Ausfish Bronze Member Marchy001's Avatar
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    Oct 2010
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    Ipswich

    Boat trailer build

    Well I finally ran out of steel to weld bandaids to on my old trailer, it was first registered in 2002 so it did an ok job I'm thinking. That being said I didn't see the need to change much about the design so I am pretty much copying what I've got just going slightly larger and heavier steel as it's getting elec brakes and a 2.8-3t ATW.

    So far I'm 2 weekends into the job and finally it's starting to look like a trailer. Roller brackets done and frame almost ready for welding. Trying to build a trailer that will be 7m long in a garage that's 5.5m long is very very painful along with the added bonus of hunting for tools after the children "help" from time to time adds to the overall experience.

    Anyway some progress shots thus far. Main rails are 150x50x4 RHS, cross members are 100x50 PFC drawbar will be 125x75x4 RHS. Will take some grunting to get it out of the garage that's for sure!




  2. #2
    Ausfish Bronze Member
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    Mar 2015
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    Kalbarri, WA

    Re: Boat trailer build

    What gauge material? I built one myself a few years back--as you did, I more or less copied the existing, but substituted a proper rocker/roller tandem assembly for the rubbish dual slipper springs of the original. And went to heavier walled material. Only place I fell down was not spotting a few little slag inclusions, which mean the galv wouldn't take on those spots.
    Do you know about the owner builder provisions for issue of a compliance plate? Simple process which keeps it all kosher for later change of ownership.

  3. #3
    Ausfish Bronze Member Marchy001's Avatar
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    Re: Boat trailer build

    4mm for the RHS is what I'm going with. The original was either 2.5 or 3mm and smaller section sizes too. Was considering 5mm for draw bar but it's lasted 16 years being 75x75x3mm RHS surely 125x75x4 will do a similar job. The PFC for cross members is something like 6.5mm top and bottom with 4.2 for the webbing from memory so hopefully as strong as 50x50x3 RHS.

  4. #4

    Re: Boat trailer build

    Hey Marchy,
    I'll be keen to see how you go about the compliance plate. I'm half way through a rebuild in aluminium for mine.

  5. #5
    Ausfish Bronze Member Marchy001's Avatar
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    Oct 2010
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    Re: Boat trailer build

    I was contemplating that very thing today. I could re attach the factory one and then get the trailer re rated / modified to the desired ATM.

    Or continue with current plan and register it as a new trailer. Thinking it will probably be easier to register it as a new one.

  6. #6
    Ausfish Silver Member brett62's Avatar
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    Dec 2013
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    Caboolture

    Re: Boat trailer build

    Quote Originally Posted by Marchy001 View Post
    I was contemplating that very thing today. I could re attach the factory one and then get the trailer re rated / modified to the desired ATM.

    Or continue with current plan and register it as a new trailer. Thinking it will probably be easier to register it as a new one.
    You will need to register new as it is new and don't forget to notify your insurance company also. It certainly will be much better than the original trailer and you will notice the difference driving down the road, well done

  7. #7
    Ausfish Bronze Member Marchy001's Avatar
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    Oct 2010
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    Re: Boat trailer build

    Progress has been fairly steady over the last few weeks but the boat has been on for its test fit and now I just need to tidy up a couple of things before off it goes for dipping.


  8. #8

    Re: Boat trailer build

    Looking good Marchy.
    I'm not quite as far along as yours but we have similar ideas by the look of it. How did you work out roller bracket heights for the first test fit, just similar measurements to the original I'm assuming. I need to work out how to attach the rear roller sets to the longitudinal framework yet, wasn't a problem with the old gal frame but strength is my concern with the alloy I-beam overhang at the rear. I'll put up some pics when I can. What springs did you use? A local trailer manufacturer swears that he won't use gal springs but I've had 16yrs out of the ones Tinka use.
    Mark

  9. #9
    Ausfish Bronze Member Marchy001's Avatar
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    Oct 2010
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    Ipswich
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    Re: Boat trailer build

    Quote Originally Posted by fishtragic View Post
    Looking good Marchy.
    I'm not quite as far along as yours but we have similar ideas by the look of it. How did you work out roller bracket heights for the first test fit, just similar measurements to the original I'm assuming. I need to work out how to attach the rear roller sets to the longitudinal framework yet, wasn't a problem with the old gal frame but strength is my concern with the alloy I-beam overhang at the rear. I'll put up some pics when I can. What springs did you use? A local trailer manufacturer swears that he won't use gal springs but I've had 16yrs out of the ones Tinka use.
    Mark
    Roller height was a guess, the rear bracket sits on top of the x member so can only be in one spot and the rest were random.
    Can't offer much on your I beam issue but surely someone will have an idea. Google search boat trailers then hit images and browse. That's how I confirmed some of my ideas that were not a direct copy of the old frame.
    Springs I got from all trailer spares about 18 months ago. When I got them I pulled them apart and coated with tectyl left for a day to dry then put back together. See how long they last but not hard to swap them out if need be.

  10. #10
    Ausfish Silver Member brett62's Avatar
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    Dec 2013
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    Caboolture

    Re: Boat trailer build

    Certainly looks the part. Just a question on the joint on the channel cross frames. Did you do a full pen weld on this joint or add a doubling plate as this will be the point that takes a far amount of load and stress.

  11. #11
    Ausfish Bronze Member Marchy001's Avatar
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    Oct 2010
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    Ipswich
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    Re: Boat trailer build

    Quote Originally Posted by brett62 View Post
    Certainly looks the part. Just a question on the joint on the channel cross frames. Did you do a full pen weld on this joint or add a doubling plate as this will be the point that takes a far amount of load and stress.
    Are you talking the low point on the V? If so yes doubling plate on back side 140x75x6mm I think I used.
    If your meaning where it ties to the side rails no doubling plate as yet but thinking I may add a small strap of some sort to spread the load some.

  12. #12
    Ausfish Silver Member brett62's Avatar
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    Re: Boat trailer build

    Yep down on the Vee and a couple straps would spread the load which would be a good thing. You going to weld in anchor points for tie downs and all the nice to have's ? I pre drilled all the holes including the rivets for the compliance plate before galvanizing.

    Quote Originally Posted by Marchy001 View Post
    Are you talking the low point on the V? If so yes doubling plate on back side 140x75x6mm I think I used.
    If your meaning where it ties to the side rails no doubling plate as yet but thinking I may add a small strap of some sort to spread the load some.

  13. #13
    Ausfish Bronze Member Marchy001's Avatar
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    Oct 2010
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    Ipswich
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    Re: Boat trailer build

    Have the rear anchor points done, will put some up front also, and yes every hole I can envisage will be drilled prior to dipping. Trying to take my time and think through everything so that it's done when it goes to get dipped as I don't want to sacrifice the galv at all if I can help it.

    Anything else I may have forgotten or overlooked?

  14. #14
    Ausfish Silver Member brett62's Avatar
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    Re: Boat trailer build

    Mate one thing I did was weld on chain links along the main RHS rails for attaching the straps for a boat cover and a couple of links welded forward of the winch post in case I want to add a tie down point for the boat from the the anchor bollard. I also placed one aft of the winch post and one on the winch post and chained the winch post back down to the trailer to help if I even need to brake in a WTF moment. Every extra point I welded on I have hooked something to it. I can tell you that the trailer you have built yourself will be a real boat trailer that wont flex and you will feel confidant towing it. Well done for taking it on. You probably already worked out that you may have been able to pick up a trailer for what it has cost you but you would not have the same quality .

    Quote Originally Posted by Marchy001 View Post
    Have the rear anchor points done, will put some up front also, and yes every hole I can envisage will be drilled prior to dipping. Trying to take my time and think through everything so that it's done when it goes to get dipped as I don't want to sacrifice the galv at all if I can help it.

    Anything else I may have forgotten or overlooked?

  15. #15
    Ausfish Bronze Member Marchy001's Avatar
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    Re: Boat trailer build

    This weekend is all little jobs, tie down points, light mounts, holes for everything.

    As for $$$ well I think I'm about the same $$$ at the moment compared to buying but my toy box has lots of shiny new toys in it. Hopefully the trailer I end up with is the trailer I had in my head when this stupid idea popped into my head.

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