Trim Tabs problem

[Dirtyfuzz]

By putting a multimeter on the switch and checking resistance will tell you if it's working or not


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[Dignity]

By putting a multimeter on the switch and checking resistance will tell you if it's working or not


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Dirtyfuzz, that is probably beyond my capabilities as this switch is also a sealed unit with a Din style plug with 5 pins.

[scottar]

Sounds convoluted, the schematics for the basic rocker switch uses only the yellow and green wires so I'll do the Actuator test to make sure they're working. What about changing port to starboard etc to see if I can work out whether it's the switch or power unit, do you think that will work as this will dictate which way I go.

Only way that would work is if you can reverse the connection between the switch and power module to see which component the fault followed. Reversing the actuators will prove whether the other actuator is ok only.

[scottar]

Given there are only five wires between modules, it's pretty much got to be processor controlled - as will be the power module. Really not a lot you can do short of substitution of parts if everything is potted unless you have plenty of time and patience and want to try removing the potting Depends what they have used as well - some come out a bit easier than others.

[Dignity]

It all seems very solid to me, I doubt I would be able to remove any components. I have the basic rocker switch and power module supplied with the unit, When I had it upgraded I made sure I kept it, it doesn't have the LEDs and both units only have 2 wires each, ie from the rocker switch and to each actuator. I might install this in the short term although I really got used to knowing exactly where my tabs were and would prefer to get them working.

[Dignity]

All is now good, many thanks to all your input, where would I be without this forum.

After having a discussion with Scottar, I cut into the wiring to see what sort of feedback signal was being received to try and find a root cause. I was a little reluctant to do that as the original installer cut the wiring so that there was very little excess. In the process I noticed that one of the cables had a nick in it close to the heat shrink and when bending the wire I could see exposed cable. When I pulled each joint apart very carefully to remove the tape and heatshrink the joint on that cable literally fell apart in my hands.

As a test I reconnected that cable and all worked as it should. Next step was to redo all the joints. Now here's one for the manufacturers, the cables from the power units are tinned, the cables to the actuators are untinned, all in an area where there is greater exposure to saltwater.

Hopefully if Ive done it properly there wont be any more problems as there isn't enough cable left for another repair. I had just enough slack in the cable to add in a catenary so that there is no tension at all on the joints.

Once again thanks to all, the solution was easy but I learnt some more in the process.

[Dirtyfuzz]

Nice cheap outcome! Good job


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[Dignity]

Nice cheap outcome! Good job


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Yep, although the connections looked abd felt solid until I cut them open you wouldn't know. Most of them were ok but one if them just pulled apart.