try again on the pic
Thanks for the pics mate, deck plates look the goods recessed and are the same ones I used on my 5.2 to fit the m260 in hull.Originally Posted by Moray
what ,model transducer is that? read good at speed in that spot? looks like the best option for me so far!
Mate where are you sourcing those trim switches from?Thanks for the info Michael! would be awesome if you could get us some pics when your at the boat next. keen to see the routed deckplates, on my 5.2 they were raised and not too nice on the feet. When you say through hull, which model did you go with as at the moment Im contemplating a 1kw mounted to the underneath of the pod. As when I spoke to Kevlacat they made comment that they leave kelvar out of the area where they install the standard wetbox because the transducers dont like shooting through the kevlar.
Im probably going to try the outer spray plates as it looks like they may deflect some water, i'll report here how they go. the inner spray plates are too stop the motors spraying themselves coming off the plane, my 5.2 did it really bad until I fitted the stainless plates I made in the below picture.
Also attached a picture of a switch panel Im probably going to use for the dual trim control.. one of the Suzuki guys over here has suggested, it seems to be a omc factory option but is cheap enough online at $50-60
Democracy: Simply a system that allows the 51% to steal from the other 49%.
Most boat places have them, or can order them, OMC also had a round trim switch for dash mounting, you see lots of them in boats without OMC motors.
Hey Lovey, ended up ordering from ebay US.. tried my Local OMC dealer who didnt have any and they are no longer available apparently. plus they were $185 from the local. Ebay is $79
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/OMC-Johns...EAAOSw44BYgpBA
Its a B175HW (chirp) and runs off a Garmin 1020. Its actually a through hull transducer (i.e. cut a hole in your hull and it fits in from below with a nut from the top to hold it in place) but the manufacturer said it is fully water tight and had no issues with the way I proposed to mount it i.e. as an external transom mount. In terms of sounding at slow speed when looking for fish/ground, the chirp is not as good for bottom definition as the M260. The B175HW picks up the bottom reasonably well at lower speeds say <45km/h but over this it loses the bottom intermittently and the resulting transmission is not smooth i.e. you get lots of little missing pieces on the display. It works better in calm weather but it does better than the M260 which constantly loses the bottom at speed. The faster you go the worse the reading. Anything over about 45 and you wont get the bottom at all most of the time. The best place for the M260 would be in the last compartment but I simply could not figure out a way to get it in there.
To be honest I have not really put in enough effort to get the best out of the transducer at speed. You can probably just make out that I've applied a fibreglass bog filler to make a smooth(ish) transition from the hull to the transducer. I've had two chops at it and each time it has improved the outcome. I'm pretty sure that if I spent more time and got a super smooth surface it would improve it further. I just don't feel like laying on my back sanding back the bog to get a slick finish and having all the dust get into my face. Its on the bottom of a very long "to do" list.
The rationale for the two sounders is that I can search for fish with the 175 and use the Furuno to hone right in on the spot. The difference in readings between the two when it comes to the bottom is quite surprising particularly when using the 200hz frequency on the M260. Since it casts such a narrow beam you know what it shows is virtually right below the boat even in deep water. No so with the 175 since it uses a 25 degree beam. My experience to date is that if you don't see the fish on the sounder they are not there so I typically just keep moving until I see them.
Update, got the omc Trim switches from the states, cut them into the dash and wired up to the blue pink and white trim wires on the dual df140's.
Only issue is I need to over come the dual switch on the controller.
My end goal is to have the trim switch on the controller trim both motors up and down together , yet the individual OMC switches control their respective engine.
At the moment I have to switch from dual to individual on the throttle controls, as when i have it on dual control even the individual OMC controls trim both engines, Im thinking im going to need to include some diodes in the circuit to get the control I require unless someone else has a solution
Not too sure what you mean! In "dual" mode, either switch is supposed to operate both motors, and when switched to single, it only works one, that's how it is supposed to work.
yep,understand thats how its meant to work. I would like it to be the same as my 5.2kc setup where my individual switches on the dash raise or lower their individual motors, and the switch on the control raises or lowers both together. without having to constantly switch the controller from single to dual (yamaha controls never had this switch)
If you put the binnicle switch into dual mode and then use the cowling switch on the motor, do both engines move? If not you can run wires all the way back to do what you want
Yes, correct, in dual mode, any switch activates both motors, single mode, only switches on a single side work, I have the same setup, and in a way, dual mode is useless unless you want to raise (or lower) both motors at the same time, and either can't wait 20 seconds to do each in turn, or you can't activate both switches at once, like when the boat is on the trailer and you want to raise or lower both motors, and have to use the cowl mounted switches.
Yeah I rarely use dual mode, except if I remember prior to washing the boat, or when the tide is low coming in to the ramp
I usually have my right hand on the throttle so don't find any problem operating the trim switches on the throttle, seems the best place for them, though haven't used this alternative being talked about
Cheers
Rod
It will be able to be done but will involve diodes to prevent the signal back feeding to the other engine. If you aren't savvy with that sort of thing probably best left to a professional
Yeah diodes are probably the only way.. Will take the boat out and see if its really worth the grief
Capecrusader/Rod Individual switches on the dash were a must have for me after having them on the 5.2, I finished installing them on the weekend and cant wait to drive the boat again with them.. so much quicker to level the boat off
Gent's trying to avoid cutting a hole big enough to fit an M260 1kw..
Whats your thoughts on the below installation of a tm260 under the pod, apparently Kittycat had some involvement in the development of the bracket. 12-15 degrees forward tilt
I have tried messaging Kittycat to find out the results but doesnt look like he's active on here anymore.
Cheers
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