Reply With QuoteThere is really no standard motor height, there can be lots of variables, even on the same model, trial and error is the only option, don't know about any spray plate things,
Gday Guys,
Got a chance to take out my new to me 2005 KC2400 Offshore and hoping to get some advice on a few thoughts/upgrades/modifications I have in mind.
The previous owner lifted the 140 suzukis up to the 4th hole from the top on the pods and after yesterdays run id say they need to come down at least one hole. Has anyone got any experience with what hole suits best? (running solas 13x21 stainless 4 blade) Led to believe that second hole from the top is Kevlacat factory setting.
Its very wet around the back, this boat has the new pods fitted but doesnt have the latest spray plates that bolt on to the side of the new style pods.. Has anyone found these help at all? Ark Marine will supply for around $200
Trim switch!!! My little 5.2KC has a factory fitted dual trim switch on the dash that I constantly use to adjust to suit the seas.. The KC2400 has nothing but the ones on the controller and because the controller is mounted very close to the side of the boat it is near impossible to get your finger in there to trim the starboard motor! Has anyone installed a dual switch on the dash and any recommendations on brands, wiring advice?
Last oneHull inspection ports.. The 5.2 has them as standard, and im struggling to not know what is or is not sitting inside the hull! has anyone installed alloy/stainless inspection ports to a 2400 and would you do it again or have any advice ?
I know its a lot of questions but thought it better to stick it in one thread instead of 4
There is really no standard motor height, there can be lots of variables, even on the same model, trial and error is the only option, don't know about any spray plate things,
See attached pic of spray plate, also some measurements for anyone thinking of upgrading their pods.
G'day
Our 140's are on the second hole
No problems accessing trim switches
If you dilly dally at low speed plane maybe 2.5 to 3000 revs, the motors do throw water on each other, but easy to avoid by going faster
I wouldn't think those little plates would make any difference to that
cheers
Rod
I have a KC 2004 model (earyl model pods) whch I'm upgrding. In order to get the pods off I needed to cut an inspection hole, happy to say no water in the hull, once new pods are fitted, I''ll fit a stainless pin out.
Can now also access the thru hull transducer.
Hey Oxygen, any chance of a pic of where you put the inspection hole?
342.jpg
344.jpg
johntsang
Diameter 140mm
Distance fom back wall (transom) to enter of hole 470mm
Distance from side wall to center of hole 370 mm
Cutting at this postion does expose the flange of a cross member as per photo but it's dificult to cut the hole further back unles you have some specialised cutting gear
(If you tap along the floor you will find the coss membes)
Give me a call if you like
0423 052 072
Ray
G'day
On a side note, check the power supplies to the ECUs, apparently a common (lazy) practice when fitting is to connect ithem to the starter motor where voltage drop can cause issues with the ECU. Mine were and I have been reliably informed that it should be connected directly to the battery so I changed them. I borrowed some stainless steering cable to assist getting the wires through after other methods failed, then was very easy
Cheers
Rod
Hi,
I am not sure of the benefit of the spray deflection plates. They might look effective but in my opinion when you are in rough seas with the wind blowing across the direction of travel the engines (and the back of the boat) get drowned. Unfortunately that is the nature of cats since they throw the spray almost vertically. No sure what is protected by such little plates?
I previously owned a 6.2 and it was the same. The only difference is that the 2400 sprays water on the inside of the motors as well. I think it comes from the cav plate on the motors and it is a lot worse than the 6.2. If you are just off the plane in the 3000-3500 rpm range its terrible. I've been contemplating how to fabricate a flexible cover from the duckboard across to the motor that does not impede raising of the motor or the steering range. Even in perfectly calm water the motors get totally drenched every time you start and stop. If anyone has solved this problem please enlighten me.
I've cut two inspection ports into the rear of the deck over the second last compartment in each hull. I don't have the boat at home (stored close to the ramp) so don't have measurements. I managed to miss the stiffener flanges so if you need dimensions I can get them when I next use the boat. I used a router to recess the deck plates to make them flush with the floor. Nicer on the feet. To compensate for the reduced fibreglass thickness and for the effects of cutting a large hole in the deck I stiffened the underside of the floor. I did this by adding supports that ran neatly between the diaphragms while fitting neatly around the hole. Probably about 125 to 150 wide each side. I cant recall what thickness of klegecell I used but it was probably around 20mm. I glassed both sides of the two pieces, prepped the underside of the floor by sanding by hand, and then glassed in the two pieces holding them in places with clamps. Perhaps a bit excessive but the result is a very stiff floor around the two holes. I made one side large enough that I could get a new transducer wet box into the hull along with a new 1kw through hull transducer. Biggest issue was not knowing where the cut the initial hole but once I had figured that out the rest was fairly simple.
regards
Michael
Sorry forgot to mention that on the 6.2 I had trim switches on the dash. They were a lot easier to access than the ones on the throttles. When I got the 2400 I was going to do the same as it is very simple to wire - you just go directly from the switches in the throttle assembly and effectively have the switches in parallel where both can work. I resisted the urge and figured I would see if it still bothered me after 6 months. A few years later I have not installed them and I did get used to the ones on the throttles. The ones on the dash are definitely a lot better though as you could operate both switches at the same time or just one and all with one hand. I have not mastered this operation with the throttle switches and you need to flick the main switch to both engines if you want to lift both at the same time then flick it to single if you want individual adjustment. I also ran out of dash space so that was an issue as well.
Cheers Ray bloody legend, that was exactly the kind of info i was looking for.. Guessing when you say specialist equipment you are referring to the back pocket hindering the drill to be able to go under the pocket.Originally Posted by oxygen
Thanks for the info Michael! would be awesome if you could get us some pics when your at the boat next. keen to see the routed deckplates, on my 5.2 they were raised and not too nice on the feet. When you say through hull, which model did you go with as at the moment Im contemplating a 1kw mounted to the underneath of the pod. As when I spoke to Kevlacat they made comment that they leave kelvar out of the area where they install the standard wetbox because the transducers dont like shooting through the kevlar.
Im probably going to try the outer spray plates as it looks like they may deflect some water, i'll report here how they go. the inner spray plates are too stop the motors spraying themselves coming off the plane, my 5.2 did it really bad until I fitted the stainless plates I made in the below picture.
Also attached a picture of a switch panel Im probably going to use for the dual trim control.. one of the Suzuki guys over here has suggested, it seems to be a omc factory option but is cheap enough online at $50-60
Johnstang
The photo doesn't show it but approx 1/2 of the cut out is actually under the pocket. Use the measurements and you'll see what I mean.
Will get a pic for you but essentially it is just a stainless deck plate that is flush with the floor. After i cut the hole to suit the inside dimension of the deck plate I used a router and recessed the outer part of the plate to make it flush. I then used sikaflex to ensure a good seal between the deck plate and the floor. I've tried some non slip tape on the deck plate but that is turning out as a failure so i might have to try awlgrip or something else and the plates are quite slippery once you have some blood and guts on the floor.
I have a furuno 587 coupled with a M260 airmar transducer shooting through the hull. Its in a wet box. No issues whatsoever. It is mounted below the deck plate so it is in the second compartment from the rear. Ideally i would have liked to get it into the original location for the reasons you mention and also because it is that little bit further back on the hull but i simply could not work out a way to get a decent sized hole in the right location given the position of the rear vertical fibreglass paneling.
I regularly fish to 100m and its fine. Have been out deeper a few times to 200m and the 50hz frequency seemed perfectly fine. I also run a Garmin 1020xs with a B175HW transducer mounted off the transom under the outer chine of the hull plus a side scan transducer mounted in a similar fashion on the other hull. I run the chirp and furuno in tandem and the Furuno is really good. Doesn't miss anything that the chirp shows. Chirp is easier to interpret as it is easy to see bait vs schooled up fish but the Furuno doesn't miss a thing. Bottom resolution is heaps better on the Furuno. The only issue i have is getting a decent sounding at speed. I get a good reading up to about 45km/hr but it degrades thereafter. I generally cruise at 50km/hr and in calm weather the reading is almost bearable but in rough weather its definitely below par.
Attachment 115245Photos of the transducer and deck plates are hopefully attached. The non slip adhesive tape i applied to the deck plates is no good hence the shitty appearance. I probably should have put my foot on top so you could see that they are flush but you might just have to use your imagination.
cheersIMG_1644.jpg
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