I agree with gofishin, get someone with D3 Volvo and sterndrive experience to check it out, they will also give you an idea on likely costs if something does go majorly wrong, leg problems for example.
Thanks gofishin and smithy
Don't know any Volvo specialists but think that having someone with D3 experience would be an advantage. Thanks for the tip on diesel additive have heard about the diesel issue but never had any experience with dealing with it or how it affects engines.
BigE
One question i would be asking is what caused the original motor to ingress water, is it likely to happen again or has the problem been fixed. If it was Reversion, where there is not sufficient riser height in exhaust & suddenly stopping can cause water to flood back into the motor this may be a design flaw. I may be totally off course but worth considering. I don't mind the sterndrive setup works well for me. The diesel could be a great asset if all is well, good luck.
Since I have read recent posts...
Given that it seems to really suit your needs, maybe you should look at it from another angle Ian. Firstly, consider how close the likely purchase price will be to the max budget you originally set yourself. If on the limit, and any inspections raise more questions than allay fears, time to walk away.Originally Posted by BigE
However, if well under your original budget, and assuming everything checks out fine now, snap it up at a great price for a diesel cruiser, and offset any unexpected costs - if they arise - against the budget surplus. The Volvo man should be able to provide ideas on possible 'unexpected items' etc, and also advise re bilge blowers and any dry/cool air supply improvements, which can be added relatively cheaply.
Like Terry suggested, need to find out more. Water ingress as in wet moist air into the engine bay, or back up the turbo, or thru the universal boot and into engine ??? etc...
Got the full doc off the net, let me know if you want it and can't find it.
The boat tested by Webster, in the excerpt I provided, only had a 130 Honda!!! So the D3 should be a speed demon in comparison .
x 2.
Does the tank (and floor) have an access hatch into the tank?
Cheers
Brendon
Sent from my iPhone using Ausfish mobile app
water ingress was supposed to be from rain while the boat was moored, rain drained into the motor bilge and eventually the bilge pumps drained the battery and water filled the engine compartment which is lower than the self draining deck. So there is a design fault if the boat is moored, on a trailer with bungs out no design issue.
Tank is under the floor but does have access via a screwed down deck panel which i am assuming is the same size as the tank.
BigE
On the water ingress issue; I make sure my engine is running before it slides off the trailer. The exhaust pressure stops water being forced back up. In reality, I need to give mine a few revs to get moving off the trailer, so I have no option but to have running, but worth keeping in mind if you do buy it.
Exhaust blowers are cheap and easy to install too, so don't let that put you off.
any thoughts on what is acceptable oil pressure ? I am thinking with the low hours it should be reasonable high. same for water temp any thoughts on acceptable temp.
BigE
i reckon you need to get info from someone in the game. Maybe Jim from Aqua Mobile Marine? I can tell you that my engine runs 90-95c when cruising. The mob in Italy confirmed this is within spec. My cruising oil pressure is about 6 bar which I think is about 75/80psi.
I googled the D3 160 and found it is a 3 litre 5 cylinder which only weighs 215kg due to an alloy construction. My engine is a 2.4 litre 5 cylinder with cast block and weighs from memory about 320kg (both are engine weights only) and pushes out 240hp. Clearly some big differences between these engines, so my running stats may not have any relevance to the D3.
A relative had a pair of D3's in a semi displacement cat..... if only you could turn back time and not spec those engines. One especially notable failure was an engine oil cooler, killed an engine, and took a mammoth bill to repair it while travelling up on the west coast of the Cape.
Not cool. Tread very carefully.
Thanks Woo
any real world feedback on D3's is very welcome as i am very new to the diesel inboard world so any experiences good or bad are helpful.
any info on oil pressure water temp and cruising economy would be welcome.
BigE
i recently looked into and missed out on boat with a kad32 (older motor) apparently the d3's when they came out were a bit of a disaster. the old story i guess never buy the new model
Same same with the new yanmar.
here read this thread from kiwi land on the d3.
http://www.fishing.net.nz/forum/surt...opic76152.html
Which Yanmars are they? The V8 turbo 350/380s?
the 6by2. there were massive recalls etc. they ended up recalling every gen 1 and making them a gen 2 I think.
the older one thats basically a 6 cyl toyota landcruiser engine is meant to be awesome (mechanical). the 6by2 is based on an alloy bmw m3 car engine? not so much. (even the yanmar guy told me) but they have by and large got their issues sorted out i think. . missed out on that boat too!
6by2 issues all over net.
http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthread...olvo-vs-yanmar
BigE
So many of the D3 don't have oil pressure gauge they come with just alarm , if this boat got oil pressure gauge the oil pressure it will depends on so many tings like temperature , RPM and oil may have additives in, or could be new ,or old ,etc etc so it is hard to say to till some expert have look .
You just have to go on that boat test
you will just love the diesel sound and the way the boat with inboard ride.
good luck
Last edited by MyWay; 09-02-2017 at 10:16 PM.
myusername, where do you stand on the KAD or KAMD Volvo 260s with the compressor? I've heard there has been a few failures with them if used at idle. I was looking at a boat with one but he had a switch that you could turn it on or off so at idle it was off but if you wanted more herbs cruising he could turn it on. Another guy then said that was risky as you risk overfueling and then liners picking up etc, etc. and compressors were only $4K. That's still $4K you have to come up with every now an again. I'm getting my Yanmar turbos rebuilt for $900-1,200 by comparison.
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