Correct method to tie a boat to a home Jetty

[Pedro14]

Just interested to know the correct way to tie a boat that keeps it close to a jetty , whether tide is rising or dropping.

If it is tied simply at stern(boat) to stern( jetty) and bow (boat)to bow (jetty) the wind takes boat out a long way from jetty.

Seem to remember boat needs to be secured bow (jetty) to stern(boat) and stern (jetty) to bow (boat) but not 100% sure.

Any tips ( video/photo) appreciated

Pedro

[Chimo]

[ranmar850]

The lines which attach and bow and stern then attach to the jetty at the opposite ends are called springers. They will allow your boat to move up and down over a reasonable tidal range without moving fore and aft too much. You need to keep the ropes which are tied to the jetty close to where they are tied to the boat( Bow and Stern lines) long enough to allow for this vertical movement, and the springers will limit the excessive fore and aft movement you would other wise get. And a springer is also very useful for getting a boat onto/off a jetty when you are working against wind or tide, used in conjunction with your motor.

[Pedro14]

ThanksChimo and ranmar850,
Good info.

Pedro

[scottar]

It depends on your tidal range. If you have a quite large tidal movement, the trick is length - the longer the line, the less the proportional difference in the line variation. When berthing there are essentially 3 types of lines used - spring lines (fore and aft), head / stern lines and breast lines. When tying smaller vessels the breast lines are generally done away with. By running your head and stern lines over longer distances - taking the headline well forward and the stern line well aft it will allow for an amount of tidal variation. When doing this the lines need to attached to the vessel as far from the wharf as is possible so as to keep the boat against the wharf - ie- if the vessel is port side to (port side against the wharf) run the bow line from either the bow or if possible a starboard side breast cleat and the stern line from the starboard side stern cleat - making sure there is nothing for them to foul over the tidal variation. Your spring lines also need to be long. As an example, in Port Alma on our tugs by using springs of about 15 metres or so and head and stern lines that are even longer we can have a tug alongside over a tidal variation of 4 metres without the need to adjust lines.

[Pedro14]

It depends on your tidal range. If you have a quite large tidal movement, the trick is length - the longer the line, the less the proportional difference in the line variation. When berthing there are essentially 3 types of lines used - spring lines (fore and aft), head / stern lines and breast lines. When tying smaller vessels the breast lines are generally done away with. By running your head and stern lines over longer distances - taking the headline well forward and the stern line well aft it will allow for an amount of tidal variation. When doing this the lines need to attached to the vessel as far from the wharf as is possible so as to keep the boat against the wharf - ie- if the vessel is port side to (port side against the wharf) run the bow line from either the bow or if possible a starboard side breast cleat and the stern line from the starboard side stern cleat - making sure there is nothing for them to foul over the tidal variation. Your spring lines also need to be long. As an example, in Port Alma on our tugs by using springs of about 15 metres or so and head and stern lines that are even longer we can have a tug alongside over a tidal variation of 4 metres without the need to adjust lines.

Thanks scottar, Thanks for the tips.
Where I am there is not big tidal movement like you.
However, I get the idea , so thanks to you and others for the good tips.

Pedro

[Out_There]

Is the jetty out the back of your house? If so, a barge board can be set up that has fenders and shore lines attached, also a line at each end of the board with a loop that goes straight onto a cleat. Also have springers tied to length with a loop at the end. When you moor the boat, lift the board, put the loops on the cleats, put the springer loops over the same cleats. Done in about 1 minute. The barge board needs to be about 1 meter longer than the end of the jetty to keep the shore lines clear of the jetty. I use a length of 1" by 2" with 3 fenders tied tightly to it. Works a treat. If its not your jetty, I've got no idea.