7.4m Assassin HT Rebuild/Upgrade (AKA Snowball)

[ryangler]

Good vids here

[ryangler]

Leaving the paint now until the discs arrive Ive moved onto the electrics, to fit there is
- 20m White 5050 strip lights to cab roof, cab front under dash, shade frame, gun whales, bait board, anchor well, dash storage box and maybe bait and kill tanks
- 15m Red 5050 strip lights to cab roof, cab front under dash, shade frame, gun whales
- 8x 15w work lights, 2 facing out the rear and 3 down each side spaced at roughly 2m
- 240w front light bar
- 2x 3700gph bilge pumps, one on a float switch and the other on a dash switch
- new deck wash pump
- new nav and anchor lights
- Fusion system with amp, sub, 4x 7inch speakers and 4x 6inch speakers
- DIY LED Transom lights
- 12 gang membrane switch panel

I may require up to 18 switches but might look to group some together instead of getting another 12 gang membrane switch kit


White LED
1 Cab
2 Shade
3 Gun Whales
4 Bait Board
5 Anchor Well
6 Bow under dash storage
7 Kill & Front Tanks

Red LED
8 Cab
9 Shade
10 Gun Whale

Power
11 Bilge Pump
12 Deck Wash
13 Nav Lights
14 Anchor Lights
15 Transom Lights
16 Rear Spot
17 Side Spot
18 Front Spot

Im also considering a DIY custom switch panel using stainless push on/off Halo LED switches but because these are only rates to 5amps some circuits will require relays and it could turn into a bigger job then im picturing in my head. Actually based on how things have gone so far, will be a bigger job then I think it will be. Need to stay of the DIY forums as im just creating more work for myself.

I don’t know, have to think about it, the end result would look pretty shmick.

For electronics im piecing together a Simrad kit at the moment. Im thinking

1xNSS12 EVO2
4G Radar
AP24 Auto pilot pack minus Ap24 controller (AC12 Computer, RC42 Compass, RPU80 Drive Pump)
HS35 VHF
RS35 Handheld VHF for spotter station
SonicHub 2
Go Free WIFI
Network Expansion Port
1kw Transom Mount Tranny
Structure Scan Transducer
New GME bases and 1.8m whips

Im removing the AP24 controller as I plan to use the NSS as the AP controller. Its probably a fair bit of information to run off one unit (sonar, gps, radar, AP, music) but apparently the layout and functionality is fantastic. Also when the new EVO3 drops in December I will likely get either the NSS 7 or 9 as a 2^nd screen to free up screen area. Its also rumoured to have the new StructureScan 3D inbuilt then network them together. The 3D Structurescan is a $1300 standalone module at the moment, so for a couple months weight and an extra 1000-1700 I will get an additional screen, as opposed to spending $1700, on an NSS7 Evo2 now.

Due to the long deck space I will likely mount and connect up via WIFI an old Samsung Galaxy Note 10.1 out the back somewhere to vie the fish finder while drifting. Initial thought is the shade cross bar, between the posts above the bait board on some form of Ebay mount and wire a USB plug up there aswell to power it. having it directly under the shade should keep the sun off it and make it easier to see

[Kondo 1]

HonestLy keep the autopilot controller, tactile buttons are far easier to use for something like that than touchscreen.

I can use both in my Furuno setup but always revert to using the controller, much easier and if you need to flick it off in a hurry (in traffic or an obstacle) I find the controller much easier and safer to use in a hurry and/or in the slop.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

[ryangler]

Cheers Kondo1, I actually pulled the trigger on ordering the gear last night.

I ended up keeping the AP24 controller as I read the same opinions on Hulltruth regarding the handyness of having the controller. I also added Th OP40 controller with the knob that im going to mount on the spotting station. The idea is when on the trawl and working birds I will be able to set the speed then duck up to the spotting station with a tablet linked to the NSS with wifi to view the sounder and plotter then steer the boat with the knob. I'm not going to kid myself and think that I can drive the boat from up there at any kind of significant speed but 6 knots will be fine and I will always have people on the deck to knock the engine out of gear if need be.

nothing like buying some new gear to get a 2nd wind to get the project finished.

[Kondo 1]

Good work - interesting to see how good the wifi goes, I haven't used simrad wifi but always had mixed results streaming to a tablet from my gear. I am sure it will be fine.

At 6 knots with the controller if it isn't too busy you will be right, depends mostly on the heading sensor and how good it is because you will be setting a heading and it steering to that, not steering the motors directly so to speak.

I have struggled to get the accuracy in the past with flux gate heading sensors, but now I use the SC30 satellite compass and they are unbelievable for accuracy. Obviously different gear, but maybe in the future if you struggle look toward the Simrad equivalent satellite compass.


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[ryangler]

Bit of an update...

Had to focus on other things that last fortnight so whilst I havnt physically been working on the boat ive been focusing on planning the next stages at night. Living in a remote town I can't just pop into an Upholstery Shop/ Whitworths/ 12v shop supply, to get things I have to order them in or online and wait a week or two. On the shopping list has been
- Lenco 12x12 trim tabs with led indicaor
- Viper2 1000w winch
- 12v gear (fuse blocks, switches, etc etc)

Ive sanded all the paint now except the bar work and hull sides. I will give the bar work a quick once over and the hull sides im going to clear coat. I know why they call it colour sanding too, because it makes a hell of a mess. Initially i was burning through dics quickly and figured there had to be another way and read about damp sanding. Basically the same as wet sanding with a block but you use much less water out of a spray bottle and then squeagy of the slurry. Started with 400 grit with little pressure then went to the 1200 and worked it get the 400 scratches out. You normally wouldnt use 400grit, from what I have read the courses you would normally go would be 800grit, but admittedly some of my finish was like braille so the 400 grit made the job quicker and easier i then had to sand/squeagy 3 times to get the 400 scratches out. also in normal circumstances you would probably go through to the primer doing this but because the paint is so thick I didnt have to worry about that.

I did go through to the white in a couple small areasnot because the blacks thin by any means but I wasnt paying attention and didnt hold the palm sander flat to the surface. I will mask off and roll on a couple coats with a small foam roller then blend with some wet and dry, Having to mask everything off to use a small touch-up gun would be a PIA and you shouldn't see it after being a solid colour from the same pot.

So moral of the story is "if you cant spray well, spray lots" cause you can always flatten it after (can just imagine the pro's out there cringing). Once buffed it should look like glass.

Obviously this isn't an efficient way of doing things, which is why a pro's charge what they charge. A pro would quickly go broke painting a boat like this with the extra materials used, and no hypothetical client would pay for the man hours ive put in. I like to think the finish is above what you would expect of a factory finished boat though. Im not sure what a pro would of charged me to paint a boat like this, any one know?

So ifs buffing and done.

[ryangler]

Messy job, had cleaned the deck a couple times prior to this...

[ryangler]

So been planning the dash too because I want to flush mount the displays. I'm going to have a display/dash box welded up out of ali that I will spray black and will be bolted down from underneath the dash to hide the fixings.

It will hold a couple of NSS12's with 20 stainless LED halo buttons underneath all mounted into a sheet of black acrylic sheet. I saw these buttons initially on Hulltruth and always thought they looked slick (need to stay off that site as I keep adding more work for myself). The Buttons are only rated to 3A so will need to run some relays on certain circuits. I will mount the Trim tab and anchor rocker switch on the RHS of the wheel. the HS35 VHF and Sonichub2 Dock will be mounted into the blue overhead console panel and the RS35 will fit in a charging cradle next to the dash box.

Because iIdont have a lock up cab If there is enough room I plan to mount some of the modules like AP Computer, AP compass, Sonic Hub and network expansion port, in the dash box with all cables travelling through a 1 1/2 hole in the dash to the underside, this way they wont be exposed to thieving fingers and out of sight. Im also thinking about fixing the acrylic cover plate,that will cover the NSS fixings, from the back inside the box, then using 4 wheel studs to mount the box to the dash and use those anti theft wheel lock nuts to bolt the box down. So to remove the screens you will first need to remove the acrylic and to do this you will need to remove the box. I will mount a pc fan in the dash as it might get a little hot in there.

Im also going to get the boats name water jet cut out of blue dash panel where it covers the white dash, so the white comes through.

Generally if I can picture it and then draw it, I can then normally build it so here goes....

[millzee]

Thats awesome work your doing, I look forward to seeing the final results. Well done

[scottar]

Don't mind me - just re read your post - you have got it covered.

[ryangler]

Don't mind me - just re read your post - you have got it covered.

Certainly appreciate any tips, tricks or advice

[scottar]

Was just the heat issue. Suspect you will definitely need the PC Fan. Try and find one that runs quiet or it will give you the sh*ts (if and when you turn the stereo down and your ears stop ringing ) I use one to cool an inverter that runs a PC but in the size I needed I couldn't find a low noise variant.......it's annoying.

[scottar]

Also with your box design, think about a brow and having them a bit more vertical - serves a dual purpose - keeps mid day sun off your displays and stops them putting light on your screen at night.

[ryangler]

Scottar, yeah it took me a while to decide on this angle, 70', as I was actually going to lay it back further at 65'. I was kind of hoping the new screen tech was good in full sun light but Im not sure as im coming from a 8yr old Furuno 582. its not like a bracket where you can change it afterward. I had convinced myelf that if it worked on the dash of a centre console it should be fine but there HT's do span gunnel to gunnel providing shade from the side where as i have a window right there on the RHS

the first design had the RHS display rotated in a little but drawing it became a pain which would of meant transfering it to sheet/plate would of been a pain

To keep costs down so far to date I have cut all ali pipe, bar and plate myself with a 1mm disc on a 5inch grinder and bent any plate with my mates old school hand powered finger bender. Ive then taken it to an engineering company to weld up or in.

To create a bit of a hood I could run the side panels through past the front face make the back and top panel as one piece with the top face to running through past the front face too. if i had it welded from the back I could then have the acrylic snug up to the hood at the edges without having to bevel the edge for the weld.

hmmm...

[ryangler]

This is the look I'm going for with the dash. Ideally I wanted to just run the one NSS12 initially as I've read there is a good chance the evo3 be announced in November with the $1200 StructureScan 3D module built in and the ability to run dual band chirp transducer. I just hope the overall dimensions of the units stay similar.

Also if I can manage to get the wiring to look like this I will be pretty chuffed with myself