Personally I would go with a reshoot, but thats because after 7 years I'm sick of flatting and buffing, if it was me, I would flat it down, and then go with 1 maybe 2 coats of clear over it again, if you finish the black with fine enough paper say 600 grit, the clear will flow nicely, and no need for buffing, in tight areas its very easy to buff through or burn and all your hard work will go to waste
Cheers Cobbo1, I actually reshot it this arvo and it turned out much better its still going to need some flattening in sections but nowhere near as much work as it did before and only 2 small runs that I will nick with a razor when its still a little plastic tomorrow morning.
I thought masking of the floor (done it ass about face should have got all the top coats done and then done the nonslip ) was going to be a PIA but I ended up using the old blood stained (mackie and tuna) carpet. It worked well at first till my shoes started to stick to it with the overspray.... .... ended up putting a couple sheets of form ply on the deck to work off of.
Started pulling all the tape and found a couple other issues I will need to fix, seems like I'm going around in circles a little at the moment
- Some how paint bled under the masking tape running under the side windows. To fix this I'm thinking I will tape the black off and hit it with some wet and dry on a block along this edge to knock the black of and get down to the white to clean the line up.
- A few patches of overspray I will hit with wet and dry.
Not sure how the above two happened as I'm really meticulous with taping off, so a bit of a pain.
The third problem is going to be a little trickier to sort out. when I masked off the non skid where its meets the black of the windscreen the paint has got under the tape. I should have used a more flexible tape on the nonskid like duct or cloth tape as the masking is to stiff and just sits on top of the grit leaving voids for the paint to get under. the problem is I have approx 650ml of Prt A for the tread paint left at 3:1 Hardner gives me approx 850ml plus intergrip 5:1 leaves me with 1000ml of material. This wont go far if I shoot it so im going to dig the black out with a stanley blade and use a small roller along this edge and anywhere else i has a little over spray on the nonslip.
Im itching to get it out of the booth to give it a pressure clean and remove all the tape residue and see how much work I have left in the paint.
Stripped all the masking and cover of the deck and found a little over spray. I saved enough material to put another coat on the deck knowing something would happen and I wanted to put a further coat on the deck with the hatches in place to ensure an even texture/finish across the hatches and deck. The painted lockers turned pout pretty good too.
So out came the gun again for another coat. the paint shop was out of intergrip so I went and got a bag of washed white sand. There was moisture in the bag so I put 5 cups in a wok on the stove to dry it out and let it cool. TBH i probably should of just went with the white sand from the beginning and saved myself $60. The intergrip has an advantage in that its lighter so doesn't settle at the bottom of the gun pot, at the pickup, to ensure even dispersion. With the sand if you just give it a shake every 10-20 sec's its not a problem, its naturally harder (heavier) so should provide a tougher finish too.
After I shot it I got into stripping all the masking off as its only touchups now.
It seems considerably darker in the photos but was later at night and the sun was setting, I think it will dry lighter too.
I also rolled the anchor well as to in the deck paint so that its a different colour to the foredeck. I just had this picture of my wife of another female friend coming up the bow ladder not noticing the anchor well and stepping into it, taking a tumble.
Tomorrow will be a big cleanup and get it on the trailer to start the fitout. Ive got a deadline to have it done before the end of the first week of September. (11th)
Got it on the trailer and in the sun today... the blue really lit up...
To say im happy with the result is an understatement and also a little chuffed considering first ever boat project, first ever 2k paint job (previous paint project consist of only a drift pig sprayed septone acrylic matt black, spraying the guards and bonnet of my Jeep wrangler with Raptor Linner and underbody black on the wrangler too)
The project went from
- Picking it up from a mate yard where it sat for 18 Months after removing the engines and telling myself, and the wife, this wont take long couple of months max
- Convincing myself, and the wife, a full respray will be easy and not take long that I will spray coats during the day rolling out some black plastic on the common driveway of our duplex while everyone is at work with their cars, overspray wont be a problem
- Stripping it in late summer (Karratha 35+ every day) with a RA air sander in the single undercover bay of our quadruplex with the HT and nose hanging out wife getting annoyed
- Getting it 85% stripped and the neighbours complaining (understandable) me thinking what have I got myself into and my mate offering to use his commercial yard space and telling him i will be out within 3 weeks
- Getting it fully stripped and me thinking what have I done, Ive f##ked my boat its going to cost me a fortune to pay someone to paint this up here (karratha)
- Bloody welders... call them self an engeneering company blah blah blah... I will sort it out myself
- Right lets just tidy up these welds only a day or two > week and a half latter
- How the hell am I going to paint this thing
- Get put onto a painter > great we will paint it at the bus booth at your work > and then not
- Ok temporary spray booth time then a week of 50-70k winds and the marquee almost taking off
- Painter starts and we run short of primer
- Primer on great there is light at the end of the tunnel
- Black 1st go > runs and orange peel > will fix it later lets do the sides
- Sides done looks great this guy (painter) is really good
- Try to spray all the white at once get runs and decide to sand and reshoot later
- Ok lets do the black again and break the white up into two sprays
- Black = orange peel and having to redo again starting to loose faith in painter
- Spray white > run short on a Sunday (paint shop closed) after asking the painter 4 times if he will have enough of paint > have to rub back to reshoot
- Spray half the white > yay he's got it on
- Painter takes off for 1 1/2 weeks > bugger it I will do it myself
- Spray 2nd half of white hey that turned out all right I can do this
- Spray the black > oh I f%%ked it, why cant I get this flat
- 2nd attempt > that will do lets get it on the trailer
A couple photos of where I started working on it and how naive I was. It was fully stripped before we applied the alodine and if I ever done another boat project I would opt for soda blasting as opposed to sanding with a DA...
Stripped tape and started to tidy up over spray today. I've been lucky, in that where the black has bled under the tape, I've been able to lightly scratch it off with a fresh stanley blade. Clean lines straight lines. on another note never by cheap tape its a PIA. I had read about it previously but when I went to buy it no name brand was $2 the Blue 3m stuff $7.5, Regretting it now as it wont peel off cleanly in reasonable size pieces. Its like an inch at a time. Hoping to 1500 RA sand tomorrow then onto the mechanical buff. Aiming to start rewiring on Wednesday but probably more like Thursday.
Fitted the cover plates and seats today to see how it looked and the missus come out and had a look. Needless to say she likes the "entertaining area" as she put it.
another tip 70% WD40 & 30% turps makes great tape residue remover. Then neutralise it with wiping over with 30% metho 70% water .
The boats name is Liquid Therapy or My Liquid Therapy undecided... I came up with it because I hardly ever drink anymore and my mates give me stick about it every now and then...
Im thinking of having Liquid Therapy in a fluid caligraphic font with a Clipart beer bottle pouring out onto the L and as the Y comes around on itself, run this off as a tight fishing line into the mouth of a jumping billfish. this would all be in white vinyl against the blue hull sides
This is a mock up to send off to a designer but gives you an idea
Mate great effort, well done
I know how exactly much effort it takes for the prep work from my 6mt repaint project, I still hate site of seeing sand paper.
How are you ever going to drive this boat in a relaxed way about upcoming paint scratches, I have no idea.
I just smile nowadays if I discover a new one and consider them battle scratches with great memories behind.
Cheers PROS That pretty much exactly how I feel, so over rubbing/sanding, want to move onto the next stage.
I won't be doing another boat project in a while although I did see this the other day and start to dream of a world cruiser build AKA "Liquid Therapy II", selling everything and taking off for a couple years following the trade winds west .... apparently the whole keel was ripped out and hull fractured on the port side hull when they pulled it back of the beach after grounding in a storm, started to think about all the sanding, bogging and faring in a project like that and said bugger that...
Struggled with the tape and residue again today, its a huge PIA... whats that saying you either pay at the start or at the end... i was originally thinking of running strips of 50mm tape along all the shade pipework instead of papering it. Very glad I didnt otherwise I would be in a world of pain right now.
Managed to get the shade bar work stripped and will hopefully start wet and drying the black tomorrow
I took a couple of days off then got back into it, the tape residue was a nightmare, I can ABSOLUTELY recommend buying 3m (green or yellow) or another quality tape it will cost more but the time you save easily outweighs the cost. In the end to get all the residue off I had to pretty much wipe the whole boat down with WD40, the WD40 dissolved the glue without effecting the paint but this leaves the WD40/glue mix on the surface, we then had a days of 50km/h winds, and this residue mix attracted a tonne of dust. Dish washing liquid wouldn't dissolve this oily residue so then had to wipe the whole boat down in Wax and grease remover to dissolve this and then spray the whole boat in a CT14 degreaser mix and wash with a bucket of water and pressure cleaner. The more expensive tape would of cost me max $100 but instead I wasted 1-2 days cleaning the boat. the reason I had to get the surface completely clean was to avoid the Wet & Dry paper getting gummed up when flattening.
For flattening Youtube says proper procedure is
If using Wet & Dry Sheets (cheaper but longer)- start with 1500grit, then 2000grit, then cut with a compound using a wool buff, then polish with a foam pad (you can use a swirl mark remover and foam pad priod to polishing if needed/wanted)
If using DA Disks (more expensive but quicker)- using a DA with foam backing pad start with 1000grit, then 1500 grit, then cut with a compound using a wool buff, then polish with a foam pad (you can use a swirl mark remover and foam pad priod to polishing if needed/wanted)
I started by hand and then through it in after doing one section with only the 1200 grit. I need to make up some time I've lost and ordered some DA disks on Ebay. The results with the wet and dry was very good but to time consuming. For a cutting compound I used Kitten products mainly due to the price, Repco has 2 tins for $15 at the moment and 3m Perfet It was $90 for 946ml and it would be order in. Starting with the black tin, then the red tin, then switching to a foam pad and using Maguires Scratch X (swirl marks) and finishing up with Kitten green tin. The results speak for them self, fixing my average job on the black. It didnt look to bad until you got up close. A good photo showing the difference is the one with the corner of the H/T the RHS hasnt been flattened and the LHS has.
considering this is 1200grit then compound buff its pretty good, though i had read online that the black Kitten is quite abrasive and will get out 1200grit scratches. apparently its the compound and polish of choice for all the old school hot rodders.
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) was going to be a PIA but I ended up using the old blood stained (mackie and tuna) carpet. It worked well at first till my shoes started to stick to it with the overspray....
.... ended up putting a couple sheets of form ply on the deck to work off of.
