Re-wiring the boat.

[gford001]

See my post for a cheaper alternative to whitworth and ebay at $0.12 ea ($31.63 for 250) vs $0.60 ea. and that is with next day delivery free, unless you don't want to have a bag of 200 sitting around.

Looks good. Dunno what I'll do with 200 though.

[TheRealAndy]

I'd be running 10mm2 for that . Although 16mm2 would certainly future proof you in that respect, as long as the actual fuse bus is heavy enough to handle it. As you said, separate feed for heavy drains like anchor winch.

Fark me, I need to get into the marine cable game. I would make a killing off people like you.

[Hagar]

I have previously done a complete rewire of my Yalta . Using tinned copper cable is a must . I used insulated twin core cable with an outer sheath for better abrasion protection plus looks neater .
I found it was cheaper to buy a reel of cable that was closest to the length of all the circuits I wanted to run . I got mine from KT Cables http://www.ktcables.com.au/ . They have expanded now so not sure if they still have a retail counter at the new address but they do online .

You sound like you are onto it but a couple of tips anyway. It sounds like you will have individual dash switches for each electrical service which I reckon is good . I ran the positive thru a heavy fuse holder and also a compact isolator switch under the dash before the bus bar ..This was so all electric accessories could be quickly isolated with one switch . I have a negative bus bar as well . All my electronics are positive switched so the power is only fed to the dash switches until they are switched on then it goes to each unit . I have seen some installations that were negative switched where power was running around the boat to all units waiting for the earth to be completed by the dash switches . Not something I would do especially if its on an alloy . Have fun but you will be surprised at how much spaghetti you will end up with under there .

Cheers Chris

[gford001]

I have previously done a complete rewire of my Yalta . Using tinned copper cable is a must . I used insulated twin core cable with an outer sheath for better abrasion protection plus looks neater .
I found it was cheaper to buy a reel of cable that was closest to the length of all the circuits I wanted to run . I got mine from KT Cables http://www.ktcables.com.au/ . They have expanded now so not sure if they still have a retail counter at the new address but they do online .

You sound like you are onto it but a couple of tips anyway. It sounds like you will have individual dash switches for each electrical service which I reckon is good . I ran the positive thru a heavy fuse holder and also a compact isolator switch under the dash before the bus bar ..This was so all electric accessories could be quickly isolated with one switch . I have a negative bus bar as well . All my electronics are positive switched so the power is only fed to the dash switches until they are switched on then it goes to each unit . I have seen some installations that were negative switched where power was running around the boat to all units waiting for the earth to be completed by the dash switches . Not something I would do especially if its on an alloy . Have fun but you will be surprised at how much spaghetti you will end up with under there .

Cheers Chris

Sweet thanks mate .I'm away with work at the moment, so I will check them out when I get home.
Thanks for the advice.