Pointers on replacing floor

[94patrol]

Going to start cuting the floor out in my seafarer Viking tomorrow and just wanting to no a couple of things Iv searched high and low to find the answers but just after a few pointers I want to put a few extra layers of 600csm over the stringers to seal them up and a little more strength as well.is 3 layers ok?and when I put the floor back on is 2 layers of 600csm over the top enough with 15mm ply?

[Chimo]

94patrol

Check along side the stringers to see if there are spots where water can be trapped ie stopped from draining so that there is moisture under the floor that in time will / may cause issues. Obviously if there are problems fix them before rebuilding the floor.

I guess you know that you need to sand / roughen any existing glass to ensure a bond when adding more epoxy resin and csm. 2:1 resin to csm and 1% mekp in the resin etc etc If you adding csm one after the other ie in the same day you may avoid a lot of sanding, You will get a better job if you glass the bottom of the ply too.
If in doubt get a pro to do it and the invoice probably makes the boat more saleable later too.

Good luck
Cheers
Chimo

[94patrol]

Cut the right hand side floor out today and checked the stringers and on the outside stringer their is a cutout for water to runout of and their is the slightest bit of rot their but should be ok drilled some sample holes and all good.let the fun begin

[Fed]

Without pictures it didn't really happen.

[94patrol]

[Chimo]

That didn't seem to work. Try this http://www.ausfish.com.au/vforum/sho...files-to-posts

[94patrol]

Attachment 111080Attachment 111080

[Rip it up]

Hey buddy. Floors are fun jobs. A few tips for you.

Choppy is fine to layup 3 layers in one go. Just keep your resin at a low MEKP percentage and roll each layer.

Learn you pot life and don't fart around rolling that one little bubble out in the first layer. Get the resin out of the tub first.

Tear your choppy don't cut it. It tapers the edges of you laminate.
And make each layer 2" wider than the last to get a staggered edge.

Do one grinding session not 4. One big grind out of everywhere you think you might put glass in one session.

Put a layer on the underside of the floor before laying it.

If you want to be anal retentive. Every water drainage hole through the stringers should get a layer of glass inside. 40mm holesaw and a die grinder to radius out the edges. When glassed then flowcoat where the water will run. Resin itself is not that waterproof.

A router over the edges of timber help it roll better. Sharp corners = air bubbles.

Internal corners can be filled with cheap filler ( talc or qcells) and a rounded spatula used to create a fillet. Whilst the filler is wet lay your glass over the top. Chemical bonds are stronger than a light scratch with sandpaper.


Damo's dodgy boat building repair centre.

[94patrol]

I hope to have it all done this weekend I want to put extra layers over the stringers so if they rot out in the future they still hold up is 4 layers of 600csm and 2 layers of woven enough?

[Rip it up]

How did you go patrol?

Timber stringers form the structural integrity of the hull. You can not rely on the glass over the stringers by its self.

That layup sounds good. If done correctly the water can't touch the timber. Or transfer from timber to timber either. Always have two layers of glass between the timber joins. And avoid screws or nails to hold them it place.

Hot glue guns are good to position the timber for a wet cove.



Damo's dodgy boat building repair centre.

[94patrol]

Finished cuting the floor out today and found the stringers are shot.any recommendations on a good Fiberglass shop on the goldcoast or Brissy?