Reply With Quoteyeah should be warm, and I found generally running on the water is normally cooler then with muffs . Bit weird not a bad thing I suppose at least it not overheating.
I flush my f70 on the muffs for 10-15 minutes after each outing. Should the water coming out of the tell tale be warm or not as mine is still cold after 10-15 minutes. Interestingly though the temp reading on the gauge when running on the muffs is the same normal reading as when cruising on the water.
Darren
yeah should be warm, and I found generally running on the water is normally cooler then with muffs . Bit weird not a bad thing I suppose at least it not overheating.
I have had 3 different brands in 3 sizes and not one got warm.
Depends on the motor, some have the tell tale come off before the water goes through the motor, so the water stays the same temp as the hose (more or less) others come off after the thermostat, and the temp and pressure rises and falls a bit.
Yamaha have a small plastic fitting that connects into the water line on starboard side of motor and you don't need to start engine.
AB
Most late model outboards have that hose connection fitting as standard which only rinses the internals of the engine block and to be used only when the outboard is not running as you mentioned, the downside is it does not flush the internals of the lower unit where your impeller pump is.Originally Posted by AndrewB
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LITTLE SKIPPER!
So running it for 10 minutes or so should be ok. Even if the water coming out the tell tale is still cold. Would you guy's agree with that.
Darren
The Yamaha agent suggested to me the fitting should be used in lieu of the earmuffs and was Yamaha's recommended way of flushing the motor.
Could be wrong but that is what I believed he said.
AB
From Yamaha website.
Which Method to Use
There is no single best method for flushing an outboard motor. There are only best methods to suit the circumstances. For example, the flush attachment method is the easiest and quickest for a boat that is moored, while the flush bag method is particularly useful on motors with multiple inlets per side. In addition, the flush muff method and bag method are the only methods to use when fogging the engine for winter storage.
Testing has shown that even the flush attachment method allows water to pass into the cylinder head passages, in spite of the fact that the thermostat does not fully open. This means that there is no disadvantage to using the flush attachment.
While conventional wisdom might indicate there is some benefit to flushing with the engine running—such as with flush muffs or a flush bag—there is no clear data to indicate this is true.
What’s important in all cases is to regularly check to see that water inlet screens on the lower unit are clear and clean. Flushing your outboard with freshwater on a regular basis can go a long way toward extending the outboard’s life span – especially for those who boat in saltwater. Freshwater flushing is easy and cheap, so keep the garden hose handy. Y
AB
I use the garden hose attachment for flushing purely because when I use the double sided earmuff, no water comes out of telltale.
Too scared to run it like that for flushing.
I saw a video on youtube mentioning it is normal no water coming out off telltale for flushing....but bot trusting.
Looks like the grill on the lower part of the leg also needs to be covered with water for the telltale to operate.
Can anyone confirm this?
Yamaha 200hp VMax HPDI
Unless the HPDI has a different arrangement to that which I am familiar with, the muffs need to cover the grill as that is where the water gets in, to get pushed by the water pump, up to the power head and then out of the tell tale. The grill is there to stop too much sand, weed and muck getting into the water pump/impellor.
If the motor is running and nothing is coming out of the tell tale, you will likely run into trouble fairly quickly.
Hope I am not telling you how to suck eggs, or have misunderstood your post.
I flush every time with the motor running. However, I had a mate who also did this but his motor died and he had to have a new head. His mechanic said the head was full of salt and he should use an additive when flushing to remove the salt in the head. When I had my motor serviced the mechanic took off my side plate and said the passages were nearly clogged with salt and he scraped them out. These days I use an additive like Mac's or Salt-off when I flush. Costs a bit but I am sure it is cheaper than a new head.
It seems 4 strokes are more susceptible to salting up than 2 strokes but don't ask me why. Just what I have been told.
#1 is the normal grill covered by the earmuffs.
I have a double sided earmuffs so both left and right frills are covered.
However hen motor is run no water coming out of telltale with this setup.
(Garden hose is obviously open full pressure)
I seem to think that grill#2 has to be under water as well for the telltale to work
~
All the outboards i've had didn't need both the grills covered. Only the lower intake where the muffs sit. I think either your not getting a good enough seal with the muffs or maybe your impeller might need to be changed.
Darren
Hi PROS. I have a 150 HPDI (2001 model) but not the VMax designation. However I believe my HPDI is almost identical to yours in design apart from your 200 revving out higher to generate more horses. I flush with earmuffs over the lower grate with a seal on both sides and always have water peeing out of the telltale. I have never heard of having to also cover the upper grate (which you labelled 2) when flushing. In fact when I flush with earmuffs water comes out of the upper grate. I do need good water pressure when flushing with earmuffs, if I don't have the tap open to full bore I get a much weaker flow from the telltale.
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