Reply With QuoteWould panel doors give you the height you need.
I currently have a roller door on my shed but have to drop bimini/clears/rocket launcher to get boat in or out. Also my wife can't get a full caravan and has a pop top. Can't make opening higher due to thickness of roller door when open. There is plenty of height once in the shed to have the bimini/clears/rocket launcher and pop top fully set up.
What I would like to do is take roller down and put some barn/swinging doors to access the extra height currently occupied by the roller door roll. I can't find anything on the net and I am not very dyi.
Any engineers/fabricators on here or anyone done something similar please feel free to offer your advice!DSC_0844.jpgDSC_0843.jpgDSC_0842.jpg
Can i have swinging door? Or sliding like an aircraft hangar? On acreage so space not an issue?
Would panel doors give you the height you need.
Hi still dreaming,
The portal frame on the shed will span just like the others. The infill below this can be removed but the brace near the apex, will have to stay. You can get barn doors made up out of light gauge steel that hinge off the side of the portal frame. I would put an extra post in that's out of 3mm steel to carry the load and this will also be used as a portal brace 'PT Brace' to brace up the front of the shed and to hinge the doors off. They are basically just a set of barn doors, the shed manufactures should be able to supply and install the doors. We have fitted these on a few occasions on block storage sheds.
cheers Nick
Potentially but lose the ability to have the bimini/clears/rocket launcher or pop top van up when panel lift is open. Run the risk of damaging anything that is up if panel lift is opened.Originally Posted by Dignity
Could I leave the frame the roller track runs down as a "PT Brace" and hinge the doors off there? I am happy with the width just want more height. When you say brace near the apex do you mean the sleeve with 8 bolts in it that joins the two beams?
Thanks for your help, hopefully it will make it easier when I talk to the shed builder.
2 or 3 (better, as you get a wider opening) Sliding doors on tracks might also do the job, but none of them will be as weatherproof as the roller.
Sliding doors would be the go i recon. Means you won't be able to have both bays open at the same time (doors will sild across into the other bay to open) but will be the goods I think. Should be able to buy a kit (maybe from same brand as your shed) and get a shed builder to fit it if you don't want to do it yourself.
how much extra height do you need ??? your losing 300mm with the roller ....you could gain maybe 200mm extra with a panel lift door ....300mm with two swing doors ...if you want fancy lay a 150mm wide slab out the front off to the left or right and do a one piece roller door that slides off to the left or right you could even put a sliding gate motor on it and press a button to open
Explored the panel lift option. The draw back is it limits the height inside the shed for the length of the door ie at the moment once in the shed I have 3m at the wall and just on 5 metres in the centre. If i put a panel lift then my height in the shed would be limited to the door height say 3m for the length of the height of the door again say 3m. So the first 3m of the shed would be limited to 3m when door is open. Does that make sense? I would prefer to maintain the heights within the shed and increase the opening however that may be acheivedhow much extra height do you need ??? your losing 300mm with the roller ....you could gain maybe 200mm extra with a panel lift door ....300mm with two swing doors ...if you want fancy lay a 150mm wide slab out the front off to the left or right and do a one piece roller door that slides off to the left or right you could even put a sliding gate motor on it and press a button to open
I have done it on two sheds now. First one the shed builder supplied, the second one I fabricated myself. Cost about a grand to do myself but didn't bother shopping around for prices on componentry. Your issue with a double opening will be the weight of the doors. The first shed I had was 4 metres wide with a 3 metre wall and a 4 metre apex. The whole end of the shed was a pair of barn doors anchored on RHS posts and the weight of those created issues with hinges - the weight opened the hinges at the top and the door would not hang straight. They ended up locating the hinges on the front of the post behind the flashing so that the top and middle hinge could be moved out slightly so the door hung straight when closed.
My current shed is a total span which uses (I assume from the pics) a similar "C" section portal frame to yours. This prohibited putting the hinges on the front of the post so I used 4 sets of heavy duty gate hinges per door cut off and welded to a 5mm gal flat bar the full height of the post to make a heavy duty hinge assembly - was a PITA to set up as once assembled the hinge was stiff as a board and required quite a bit of time with the emery paper on the posts to free the movement up. These seem to be functioning great but they are only holding a door 1.3m wide. I also put extra braces on the posts top and bottom to minimise any movement due to weight.
I suspect with a double door opening the weight of your doors, especially without a solid RHS to anchor to, will require the door to supported at the base somehow. I have seen this done with a jockey wheel on a massive door at my Brother in Laws but he has a fairly flat pad out the front of his shed for the wheel to run on.
Hi SD
Leave the door alone, just excavate to lower the door jamb.
You appear to be rising up to enter the shed and from the pics it looks like cutting a ramp that drops the jamb the 300mm or whatever you need would get the gear (boat and van) low enough to get past the doorway.
No doubt something could be fabricated to close the gap between the bottom of the existing door and the lower jamb height but then again maybe the door can drop a fair bit more too. Perhaps you may even have the choice of a small gap at the top?
Cheers
Chimo
I like your thinking Chimo! Reckon that would be cheaper too.
I just removed the roof, added 1200m to all the uprights & put the roof back on.
All engineered of course.
That's the go, H/D castor or trolley wheel to support a lot of the weight of each door. Wheels don't need to be at the edge (where the doors meet when closed). 1/2 or 3/4 along will be ok and will mean less 'dead flat' concrete out the front. Looks like only blue metal outside the shed so a slab out front will be no biggie.
Or....
Get some light weight ally doors made up, frames and skin. Will be pretty light and can do away with wheels/slab out front, but will still need some decent hinge mullions on the shed. If you need a price from someone we have a guy in our club that does good ally work and is mobile. He may be interested.
Cheers
Brendon
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Anyone ever heard of roller or panel doors being installed vertically? I have 800mm each side of the opening that could house the roll/panels when open
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