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  1. #151

    Re: Re-power Cruisemaster 700 with diesel

    Hi Ed. One of the sanders is air driven and it is just a one hand grip with no guard and very handy for getting in those tight places.( It was operator error) I am using Polyester and you could be right with just having the dust suit on plus the heat. It will be a good day once I get the fiberglass works completed. I am sure going to have some work ahead to get all the dust and fibers out of the boat.

  2. #152

    Re: Re-power Cruisemaster 700 with diesel

    Are you ready using your transom shield and drive? Are you fully servicing these? Are there any special jigs etc / process to line up? Can u give us a rough idea of how much this costs ? I.e..it starts with a 4 or 5? (Guess)

  3. #153

    Re: Re-power Cruisemaster 700 with diesel

    Quote Originally Posted by myusernam View Post
    Are you ready using your transom shield and drive? Are you fully servicing these? Are there any special jigs etc / process to line up? Can u give us a rough idea of how much this costs ? I.e..it starts with a 4 or 5? (Guess)
    No I am not using any of the old drive. The drive was a Bravo 1 and not really suited for the torque a diesel throws out. I also wanted to go a Bravo 3 which on this particular boat will be better. I could have used the old transom shield assemble but when you purchase a completed package the extra cost for everything new and this includes trim pump etc was well worth it. I purchased the engine/bravo 3 X drive, hydraulic steering, fuel filter system, sea water strainer and a few extras on the motor such as digital display and engine management. Price includes props, sea trials and first service $49,000. (I think the motor only is about $35,000) Steyr have been great with lending me their engine jig and any other tools I don't have. I already have the alignment tool which you most definitely require. These are $100 and you will use this whenever you service the engine to insure that your drive is aligned with the engine or you will be spending a lot of money repairing. If you are having serviced at a dealer you will not require.

    As far as cost of installing - This will depend on what condition your engine beds and transom are in. Don't take what I am doing as the norm as I am really refreshing the complete boat. If you were just doing a change out from what I had its a days work to remove the old engine and drive, you would need to run the new engine harness which comes with the engine, engine beds set up for the mercruiser is not much different from what I am installing and could have easily made some bolt on brackets off the existing beds and you are ready to install. Depending on your engine compartment you may need to increase the length which is not a big job. Engine type will govern this. The two engines I got down too both required 100mm more room with the Yanmar and Steyr with in 10mm of each other. This also has me shortening up the fuel tank which is also no big deal as I will install a return line at the same time. Some of the other diesels I looked at would not have required lengthening but these were the modified car engines and wouldn't go there.

    You do need to run a fuel return line back to the tank and this can be easily done also by teeing into the tank filler line and you need a good quality fuel filter installed. You will also most likely need to change the fuel delivery hose size as a diesel requires much more fuel flow to operate. A good installer would probably have you back in the water with in a week but that depends on your boat. To really work out the cost if you just waited to drop the boat off and pick up completed you would want an installer to go over it. If you don't mind turning spanners and getting dirty you can save yourself a lot of money by doing the shitty work yourself and most of the installers will be more than happy with you doing it.

    I have found many surprises while doing my refit that I had not planned for and these items are hard to see until you remove the old equipment. It would not matter if you are changing like for like you still need to fix issues. I think if you are repowering there will always be other jobs you would like to do and really it's the right time to install that bait tank or other items you have been thinking about.

  4. #154

    Re: Re-power Cruisemaster 700 with diesel

    Thanks for sharing this Brett, I have enjoyed following your progress.

    I had thoughts of doing something similar, but seeing what you have been up against, it is not something I am cut out for.

  5. #155

    Re: Re-power Cruisemaster 700 with diesel

    A couple of photos of progress nowhere completed as I have used all my resin supply so down to the boatyard in the morning for some more materials. Have two layers of bi-directional cloth over the new bulkhead and beds down to the bottom of the engine bay. Will lay two down tomorrow on the bottom once I pick up more resin. Will be doing four layers and then a layer of CSM over the top to make it easier to sand off for flow coating. Gave the area a sand this afternoon to take any rough bits off. You will notice some white bits from sanding back and is not trapped air which it looks like.

    image.jpg

    image.jpg
    As you can see from the photo I have the ability to destroy any boat given the chance. Making many changes so I can get all the cables and wiring up out of the way. Will glass in supports for attaching cable conduits around the stern area. Below is a bulkhead I am preparing which the fuel system will mount on the engine side and the other side the trim pump will mount up off the deck. Above this will be another timber support that glasses into the underside of the stern to add support for the new hard top ladder post.
    image.jpg
    This photo shows the handy work of someone that decided to mount an on board battery charger and couldnít work out that cutting the supports off is not real smart. You can also see they cut a rather large opening in the side support where the shore power is. This was another great idea so when you hose the boat out you also give the battery charger a wash also. Anyway that will all get fixed. Found a lot of this personís handy work. I canít be sure but at a good guess I would say same person that wired the boat up which I still canít get my head round. I really should have taken photos because no one would believe what it was like. The other photo shows a 60mm hole in the deck where the fresh water filler hose runs. What a great idea this is when you hose the boat out and all the water runs down into the hull and yes it has no drain to get it out. I pumped 100 liters of water out of the hull and the smell was something else. There are other so call sealed compartments in the boat which I will be looking at and suspect no surprises.
    image.jpgimage.jpg

    This last photo is the new BHD and you will see I have a drain point at the keel. Previously the fuel tank compartment had no way of draining water out from washing the boat and was rotting out the stainless tank. The tank also sat hard down on the bottom of the hull so you can imagine what that looked like when I pulled the tank. I will install a drain valve in the tank and will be accessible from the drain point at the keel. The other cut out on top will be for the fuel line and return back to the tank.
    image.jpg
    Sorry there is one more photo of my foot just before I went ass up in the fuel tank compartment. It is now time for a rum.
    image.jpg

  6. #156
    Ausfish Addict Chimo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Gold Coast

    Re: Re-power Cruisemaster 700 with diesel

    Looking at what you are doing makes it obvious that you have no problem filling in your days.

    When I was doing a lot of work with FRP at work years ago I decided to get lazy / smart when it came to getting a final look ie flocote finish and I ended up just mixing about 10 % flocote in with the resin and made the last layer fairly resin rich. It gave a nice "flocote" finish and saved one job and a lot of sanding and dust.. Maybe try a small patch and see what you think.

    Carry on Brett, love seeing your progress.

    Cheers
    Chimo
    What could go wrong.......................

  7. #157

    Re: Re-power Cruisemaster 700 with diesel

    Quote Originally Posted by Chimo View Post
    Looking at what you are doing makes it obvious that you have no problem filling in your days.

    When I was doing a lot of work with FRP at work years ago I decided to get lazy / smart when it came to getting a final look ie flocote finish and I ended up just mixing about 10 % flocote in with the resin and made the last layer fairly resin rich. It gave a nice "flocote" finish and saved one job and a lot of sanding and dust.. Maybe try a small patch and see what you think.

    Carry on Brett, love seeing your progress.



    Cheers
    Chimo
    Hey Chimo I love that Idea. Anything that saves me sanding has to be good. Mate I have a rash that rum won't kill but I will keep at it

  8. #158
    Ausfish Addict Chimo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Gold Coast

    Re: Re-power Cruisemaster 700 with diesel

    OK We used to weigh out lots of small batches and adjust the MEKP according to temp (obviously) and also depending on whether we were laying up on a flat section or an upright wall / face. No doubt you lay up within the no sand 24 hr window for the other stuff anyway.

    I hate the itch too, slow speed tools are good though.

    c
    C
    What could go wrong.......................

  9. #159

    Re: Re-power Cruisemaster 700 with diesel

    Quote Originally Posted by Chimo View Post
    OK We used to weigh out lots of small batches and adjust the MEKP according to temp (obviously) and also depending on whether we were laying up on a flat section or an upright wall / face. No doubt you lay up within the no sand 24 hr window for the other stuff anyway.

    I hate the itch too, slow speed tools are good though.

    c
    C
    I will be back in sanding tomorrow because I will miss the 24 hours due to running out of resin but that is my fault for not getting more resin before everyone shut for Christmas. I am mixing at 1% at present due to the heat and correct me if I am wrong but flowcoat should not be mixed less than 11/2%. With the temperature now I only get about 15 min before the resin starts to gel so I have the Son mixing as I apply on the bigger section or I would be up shits creek. I have also found that the matt is harder to get air out around curves and really likes a flat surface. The CSM is more user friendly but nowhere as strong and I thought strong is better for the beds as they do get a fair amount of stress thrown at them as does the stern. I purchased a few different rollers to help remove the air and they do work well on the CSM but not the matt, I find brushing works better but it could be just my lack of experience.

  10. #160
    Ausfish Addict Chimo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Gold Coast

    Re: Re-power Cruisemaster 700 with diesel

    Sounds right, hence the small batches.
    I just did a repair rejoining two halves of a double wave ski and I found the smallest roller I have worked the most satisfactorily with a stiff brush close second.
    Had to rebuild the fin boxes too and both roller and brush were useful.
    Some of the frp jobs tend to be easier for us in this heat if we do them in winter such as it is.
    Sweat plus dust plus fibres me no like.
    Good that you have your son helping, makes a big difference does it not.
    What could go wrong.......................

  11. #161
    Ausfish Bronze Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Brisbane

    Re: Re-power Cruisemaster 700 with diesel

    Getting closer every day.
    Cudos to you, for persevering and not giving in!
    Regarding the dreaded Fiberglass itchies, I have found the following 2 step process alleviates 95% of the discomfort:
    Wet arms and legs with a hose to wash off bulk of glass dust.
    Donít rub it with anything, just get it wet, and then blast it off with an air gun until dry.
    Then go and have a shower - hot or cold doesnít matter, but finish off by using a loofah in the water stream. A scotch brite pad or shower scrub will do, but loofahs are the best.
    Doesnít need soap or anything, just plenty of running water. It actually pulls out the last of the evil little glass bits.
    Seriously, it works.
    Let me know how you go...

  12. #162

    Re: Re-power Cruisemaster 700 with diesel

    Quote Originally Posted by giddyup58 View Post
    Getting closer every day.
    Cudos to you, for persevering and not giving in!
    Regarding the dreaded Fiberglass itchies, I have found the following 2 step process alleviates 95% of the discomfort:
    Wet arms and legs with a hose to wash off bulk of glass dust.
    Donít rub it with anything, just get it wet, and then blast it off with an air gun until dry.
    Then go and have a shower - hot or cold doesnít matter, but finish off by using a loofah in the water stream. A scotch brite pad or shower scrub will do, but loofahs are the best.
    Doesnít need soap or anything, just plenty of running water. It actually pulls out the last of the evil little glass bits.
    Seriously, it works.
    Let me know how you go...
    Great I will give that a go today. Just picked up some more materials and about to start sanding again. The rash I have is now infected and the right arm is the worst with it also swelling up and yes getting closer but I am still far off. I really need to stop looking but as you would know when you see something it's hard not to fix. Mate I have given up with putting some time frame on this project and it will finish when it does. I think the Steyr dealer was a little confused when I wanted the motor under preservation and see you sometime in 2018 for the sea trials.

  13. #163

    Re: Re-power Cruisemaster 700 with diesel

    Quote Originally Posted by giddyup58 View Post
    Getting closer every day.
    Cudos to you, for persevering and not giving in!
    Regarding the dreaded Fiberglass itchies, I have found the following 2 step process alleviates 95% of the discomfort:
    Wet arms and legs with a hose to wash off bulk of glass dust.
    Donít rub it with anything, just get it wet, and then blast it off with an air gun until dry.
    Then go and have a shower - hot or cold doesnít matter, but finish off by using a loofah in the water stream. A scotch brite pad or shower scrub will do, but loofahs are the best.
    Doesnít need soap or anything, just plenty of running water. It actually pulls out the last of the evil little glass bits.
    Seriously, it works.
    Let me know how you go...
    Mate bloody worked a treat just need the rash to go and life will be good.

  14. #164

    Re: Re-power Cruisemaster 700 with diesel

    So I put down two layers of cloth in the bottom of the engine compartment and still need two more layers over the beds and bottom. Was hoping to have done before returning to work but will have to wait till I am home again. To tell you the truth I had to stop playing with the glassing to give the body a chance to fight this rash which seems to be paying off.
    So I moved on to something I started two years ago and never finished and that was remove the last of the anti-fouling from the stern and check some more compartments with the scope. Well stern first, after removal of the anti-foul I counted 75 holes which I need 16 off. The others were old transducer placements and other equipment. I just sat back and laughed as the stern looks like it was hit with buckshot. The photo below shows where there was a science project going on with where to put the transducer.
    image.jpg
    image.jpg
    image.jpg

    I will fill all of them up and start again. There are also several places where fittings were and are redundant from when the back swim platform was installed and once again the fix was either cut the head off the bolts or just fill with sealant and run away.
    image.jpg

    I will be removing the platform and give it a good clean up and also fix the redundant holes and re-seal. As you can see for a boat that had no bungs it will now have seven. This has come about from scoping inside the hull the past few days and finding water (salt and fresh) in what should probably not be call watertight compartments. I was trying to work out if I put inspection ports in the deck or bungs in the stern. I decided to do both and then I can leave the compartments open to dry out. I am going to find out where these compartments get water from if itís the last thing I do. I will fill with water one by one and see.

    The only downside is the outside bungs are where the trim tabs were attached. I will need to move the tabs 50mm towards the keel which is not ideal but thatís life. I will also need to build up where they attach as you can see they will be just over the change of angle on the stern.

    I started this post about repowering the boat with a diesel and really haven't got near to installing the bloody thing. This really has turned into a major project.

  15. #165

    Re: Re-power Cruisemaster 700 with diesel

    Back home last week and got stuck into the stern and removed the swim platform rails and supports back on to the stern so I could get a clear run at repairing all the holes. The bolts holding the rails where a surprise with 80% of the bolts breaking off with no force at all. Removed some of the old filler from holes done sometime earlier in the boats life and found some with the broken screws still in and a few where the holes were not filled completely. Some were pumped with sealant and a thin layer of filler over the top. Not really what one should do but none of the hole showed any water egress so they were sealed.

    My plan was just to do patch repairs where needed on the stern but as per usual it got bigger and ended up sanding the complete stern back under the swim platform just to make sure I had everything. Finished putting two coats of gelcoat on today and will put a coat of flowcoat on tomorrow and let it sit for 24 hrs and then start sanding and polishing.

    I am leaving the transducers off for now until I work out what I will be installing. Have a HDS 10 at present and looking at maybe installing something different which I am in discussions with Moose about. Next step will be remove the swim platform and clean up the top section of the stern which is in need of a little love. The swim platform will also get a tidy up and re-gelcoat while it's off and then I am back inside to finish off the glassing on the engine beds. I think I will do the fuel tank modifications and install before I do a dry install of the engine. Looking forward to getting the motor in so I can sort out what else I need to do.

    In a earlier post I was wondering where some of the water was getting in some of the compartments. I removed the thru hull pick up for the deck wash and was surprised once again when I undid the fitting it fell on the ground. Was not one bit of sealant on the fitting. I have a couple more in the hull for the head so they will be coming out and I am sure they maybe the same all tho they may have been installed by the boat builder which should be fine but won't hurt to re-seal after 18 years.

    DSC_3761.jpgIMG_20180222_162003.jpgIMG_20180222_162026.jpgIMG_20180222_161946.jpg

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