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  1. #106

    Re: Re-power Cruisemaster 700 with diesel

    What about 2nd hand diesel? I just dropped two valves in my 4lha-STP at 12,985hrs. Had bought two bobtail motors out of a cat with 400hr each through last year so chucked one of those in. Since then, I have been made aware of 3-4 others. Send me a PM or email. There is Angus (Gus) on Gumtree from Coolum/Noosa with a couple and another guy down at the Gold Coast. Gus didn't have the 4lha listed, just some other stuff and trades as Paradigm Marine.

    I'm not a fan of Volvos and probably not a fan of common rail electronic motors in small boats. I'd be sticking to mechanical injector pumps like the Yanmar. As for Steyrs, their figures look good but I know how the 4lha Yanmars look in 28' Berties and I reckon the 260hp Steyrs were physically bigger in the same space and the performance a mate got out of his Styers were not as good as the other guy with the 230 Yanmars in the same hull.

  2. #107

    Re: Re-power Cruisemaster 700 with diesel

    I like the layout of the boat and throwing a couple of outboards on the back is not something I would consider myself. The inboard weight being down low and forward certainly works for this hull. I don't want to start playing with the dynamics of the hull as more than happy with the performance at sea. Besides I would lose the back swim platform which is great to fish off and even better for sitting in a chair with a rum and watch the sun go down.

    Smithy thanks for the good information you sent me.

  3. #108

    Re: Re-power Cruisemaster 700 with diesel

    A pretty beaten up Cruisemaster 700 has come up for auction. it's been submerged up to the batteries and everything is pretty much destroyed. but it would go cheap if you fancy a trip up north to collect it.

    A client of mine last year had a yanmar installed in his new plate alloy build and has a hell of a lot of information on what it was like for his project. If you like i can put you in contact with him,


    Marine outfitting solutions

  4. #109

    Re: Re-power Cruisemaster 700 with diesel

    After a very long time I finally decided on the power plant for this re-power. Installing a Steyr SE266S36 260hp coupled to a Bravo III X drive. Paid the deposit yesterday and take delivery in October.

    Erected most of the shed while I was home and will bring it to lock up next trip and then I can start getting in to the work.

    I had my hart on a Yanmar but the Steyr ticked a few more boxes for my use. Was still saying to myself Yanmar while handing over the deposit. I am so over researching engines/drives as I was getting to the point of picking one out of a hat.


  5. #110

    Re: Re-power Cruisemaster 700 with diesel

    congradulations on taking that leap!
    sure is going to be an interesting project. what have you considered for noise suppression? etc?

    Marine outfitting solutions

  6. #111

    Re: Re-power Cruisemaster 700 with diesel

    Quote Originally Posted by chocolatemoose View Post
    congradulations on taking that leap!
    sure is going to be an interesting project. what have you considered for noise suppression? etc?
    Moose it's through the prop exhaust and engine box has sound proofing as most do and after hearing one run up it's no louder than the mercruiser. Being a straight in line engine it runs smooth also which is good but is a little longer than the Merc so making a few changes to the engine compartment and beds. The width and height are good but need another 4 ins in length. And yes glad I have taken the leap as to what I was re powering with so I can get moving.

  7. #112

    Re: Re-power Cruisemaster 700 with diesel

    What filters are those on on the port side of the engine? Most of the new diesels I have seen have the oil filter on the top for ease of changing now. My oil filter and impellor are the only pains with my 4lha. They are below deck level and I have to do the oil filter by feel and tip it on its side a bit when I pull it out which dirties up my bilge.

  8. #113

    Re: Re-power Cruisemaster 700 with diesel

    Hi Smithy one is the oil and the other is the final fuel filter which will end up at deck level for easy replacement. The sea water pump is up so it is easy to remove and the starter motor is high up on the fly wheel out of the bilge and removable with out having to perform movements of body parts that were just not designed for it.

  9. #114

    Re: Re-power Cruisemaster 700 with diesel

    Steyr will do everything you need, a mate has one in his Lazercraft and its been a fabulous engine, Navy use them in their RHIBS and they perform very well.

    Love seeing the progress of the build and reading all the positive comments,

  10. #115

    Re: Re-power Cruisemaster 700 with diesel

    Smithy, just put a remote filter head on it mate.

    The Steyrs are good things. Talking to a few of the water taxi guys in Venice a couple years ago running them in similar configs and they were all happy with them. Some with Bravo 2, some Volvo legs, many over 20,000hrs. Volvo legs are a bit more durable according to them. I don't see you having any issues with a Bravo though at the relatively little weight you're pushing.

  11. #116

    Re: Re-power Cruisemaster 700 with diesel

    Quote Originally Posted by lethal098 View Post
    Steyr will do everything you need, a mate has one in his Lazercraft and its been a fabulous engine, Navy use them in their RHIBS and they perform very well.

    Love seeing the progress of the build and reading all the positive comments,
    Only wish the progress was a little quicker LOL but finishing the wife's house came first.

  12. #117

    Re: Re-power Cruisemaster 700 with diesel

    Gotta keep the Minister happy, and hey good things come to those that wait,

  13. #118

    Re: Re-power Cruisemaster 700 with diesel

    So this trip home I was able to get the shed to lock up stage and now only need to run the power.

    I also had time to start the process of removing the helm/deck so the fuel tank could be removed and got the tank out the day before heading back to work. I am now able to see what I need to change/modify to fit the engine at last. From what I have measured and look at the fuel tank will need to be shorten up about 250mm so will lose about 30-40 litres of fuel capacity. Capacity at present was 320 litres so I will just have to live with that. Time will tell if I need to carry extra fuel on longer trips. The engine bay bulkhead also needs to move 250mm fwd I really only need 100mm but will make the deck removable from the new position of the bulkhead for several reasons. First it will make installing and removing the engine much easier. Second is when required to do any maintenance on the front end of the engine such as changing the timing belt I will have plenty of room. Thirdly the extra space fwd will allow the installation of a thru hull transducer.

    The biggest issue I have come across at present is that I will not be able to just extend the complete width of the engine bay due to there being fresh water tanks either side of the fuel tank compartment. I can get the 100mm I need at the same width of the engine bay but the further 150mm will need to be angled in to the width of the fuel tank compartment. Had a look under the deck and moving the water tanks is not an easy job and best left alone.

    Attached are a couple of photos which may help what I am trying to explain. I haven’t had a good look at the fuel tank as yet to see if it will be modify or replace. First look it seems fine to just modify but I will clean it up and test it. What has surprised me is the fuel tank compartment does not drain and at the aft end of the compartment there are slotted holes both sides for the drain hose from the shower and built in esky which join into a thru hull fitting which then drains into the engine bay. So when you are hosing the boat out and water enters the fuel tank area which is not sealed off it flows through the slotted holes into the hull which also has no drains installed. This has explained the water I found sitting in the hull when I opened the inspection ports. I have no idea if this was done by the builder or one of the owner’s when the larger tank was installed so I have a couple of ideas of fixing the issue one is to install an inspection port both sides of the engine bay at the stern and install bilge pumps or cut drain holes at the stern where the engine bay sides meet the stern.

    At the stern where the transom bracket bolts on at the bottom there is some repair work as the timber shows signs of rot. The previous owner had the engine replaced and it looks like whoever did the install notice this issue and the fix was to pump full of silicon and move on.

    Next trip home I hope to finish removing the steering and rest of the wiring from the stern area and install a bung in the stern so I can start cleaning up the engine bay and fuel tank compartment ready to start the modifications. I will also reinstall the old transom bracket so I can mark position for the engine mounts using a jig the supplier of the engine has offered to loan me which will make life easier.

    Have a fair amount of work ahead of me but finally going in the right direction. DSC01339.jpg1.jpg2.jpg3.jpg

  14. #119

    Re: Re-power Cruisemaster 700 with diesel

    Well home again and continued with the project. First day home was down to the Steyr dealer which offered a lend of their engine jig which I kept for the weekend so installed the old gimbal bracket and transom shield and set the jig up and found that the engine center line is thrown to the port side 25mm and the new engine beds will have a 2 deg incline. The issue of the run out of 25mm I will certainly fix and don't understand how the installer could have not seen that one.

    So I have removed the bulkhead on the forward end of the engine bay and also removed the old engine beds and shot a hole in for a drain bung in the stern. I have started to cut in to extend the engine beds and will complete that over the next few days and then it's time to make up the new beds and forward bulkhead. Going to use timber again for the beds as the old ones had been in for 18 years and where still solid as the day they were installed so I will stick with it. To my surprise I was expecting to find rotten timber under the deck but so far everything has been great. Still to install drain points down towards the stern as still thinking of the best way to tackle the issue.
    Also haven't attacked cleaning the wiring out of the stern area but is booked in for this week to remove. I have started removing the trim tabs, transducers and all the other crap hanging off the stern so I can remove the last of the anti foul and fill holes and I am also going to fiberglass the exposed timber on the stern where the drive goes through and gelcoat.

    A couple of progress photos and a photo that may be of interest on the stern drive raw water supply that many people have wondered why their engines start to run hotter after some time or that one side of the engine is hotter than the other. Captain Rednuts has spoken about this issue on here a few times and is something for the people with stern drives using the leg for the raw water supply. I am most certainly going to be installing a thru hull water pick up with a sea strainer and block this baby off and cut the hose off so it still cools the drive.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  15. #120

    Re: Re-power Cruisemaster 700 with diesel

    I spent the day finishing removing both engine beds and making the necessary modifications required and started sanding and feathering off the glass for the new beds. I still have sanding to complete tomorrow once I install some new brushes in the sander which decided to give in late today which I was happy with due to the operator feeling just as stuffed.

    Now that I have it back to bare timber I need to start the new beds and bulkhead. I am after some advice should I now seal the timber and if so what would be the recommended product to use. The old engine beds were make from laminated marine ply and nailed together with galvanized nails and then glassed over. I was wondering if maybe using a suitable hardwood block would be a better idea or should I just stay with the laminated marine ply. I am going to use epoxy for all the glass works which I am told bonds better to the polyester system. Any recommendations or advice will be welcome.

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