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  1. #31
    Ausfish Silver Member brett62's Avatar
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    Re: Re-power Cruisemaster 700 with diesel

    Chimo I certainly will be looking at the setup when I get to that stage. If I am not happy with the tank I will build a new tank out of 4mm alum and set it up. Many of the stainless/aluminium tanks I have repaired have been from broken out baffles from movement. The last thing you want is fuel in the bilge petrol or diesel. Fuel tanks don't crack for no reason and just welding the crack won't fix the cause. Repaired many tanks from boats and some of the installations have been poor as you found. You would expect that your fuel tank would be installed correctly but often that is not the case. We are all carrying a lot of bang around in our boats and best we contain it in where it should be. The fuel tank gets a beating.

    Thanks for sharing what you found as I think my tank may have had the same problem. I will know once I pull it out.

  2. #32

    Re: Re-power Cruisemaster 700 with diesel

    Quote Originally Posted by brett62 View Post
    ...Yes a return line is required....
    Ok. Sounds like you have everything sussed Brett, and know your way around a tank . I am sure this thread will be used by many as research into diesel conversions, so for their benefit make sure the return line goes down to the bottom of the tank, and preferably a good distance away from the pickup/and preferably at least one baffle chamber away.

    Quote Originally Posted by brett62 View Post
    ...I will be moving the tank forward and yes it can be removed. I will be having a close look at the tank and pressure test as the pervious owner said he had it repaired due to a leak. It is a stainless steel tank and if its one of the light gauge tanks I will be throwing it away. I have repaired many of that type before and they are a on-going issue.
    it's funny how SS tanks used to be the rage in Oz ~20-30 yrs ago, or less. I think the illusion of SS meant that people thought that SS tanks (with untreated welds DOH!) were bullet proof, and you could throw them down in the bilge and forget about them. Yet ironically even in those days, US and other regs (Law for rec boats even) preferred ally tanks, and had a lot more constraints if SS were to be used.

    Quote Originally Posted by brett62 View Post
    ...If I am not happy with the tank I will build a new tank out of 4mm alum and set it up. Many of the stainless/aluminium tanks I have repaired have been from broken out baffles from movement. The last thing you want is fuel in the bilge petrol or diesel. Fuel tanks don't crack for no reason and just welding the crack won't fix the cause. Repaired many tanks from boats and some of the installations have been poor as you found. You would expect that your fuel tank would be installed correctly but often that is not the case. We are all carrying a lot of bang around in our boats and best we contain it in where it should be. The fuel tank gets a beating.

    Thanks for sharing what you found as I think my tank may have had the same problem. I will know once I pull it out.
    too true and great advice. Save considerable weight too.
    Cheers
    Brendon


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  3. #33

    Re: Re-power Cruisemaster 700 with diesel

    The Yanmars are not 100% Toyota engines. Filters and stuff are not exactly the same. Actually in that regard they have similar part numbers with impellors and filters to little Volvos in my experience. Anyway I source my oil filters for $13, primary fuel filters for my Racor for $15 and secondary fuel filters for $9. Cheap as chips. I am getting my SAE30 oil for $80 for a 19 litre tub.

  4. #34
    Ausfish Silver Member brett62's Avatar
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    Re: Re-power Cruisemaster 700 with diesel

    Interesting Smithy, How are you finding the motors? and what are you running.

    Quote Originally Posted by Smithy View Post
    The Yanmars are not 100% Toyota engines. Filters and stuff are not exactly the same. Actually in that regard they have similar part numbers with impellors and filters to little Volvos in my experience. Anyway I source my oil filters for $13, primary fuel filters for my Racor for $15 and secondary fuel filters for $9. Cheap as chips. I am getting my SAE30 oil for $80 for a 19 litre tub.

  5. #35

    Re: Re-power Cruisemaster 700 with diesel

    Mine is a 2003 4lha-STP 230hp 4 cyl shaft drive. Jimmy knows it well. Been used commercially. I am at 10,600 hrs. I have put 4,600 hours on it myself. Rebuilt two turbos and put a freshwater pump on it pretty much. I get my filters from Suncoast Truck Spares on the Sunshine Coast. They seem to be cheaper than even Qld Diesel Spares. I get my belts from Suncoast Bearings and Belts and anodes from Cathodic Anodes Australia which are all at Kunda Park at the back of Maroochydore. My oil I get from my diesel supplier though I was getting it off Jim. I started off servicing at 250hrs but since the last turbo rebuild I have bought that back to 150hrs. I probably put 2 litres of oil into it over that 150hrs but it isn't blowing smoke and runs super clean. Any time I have done an oil analysis it has been good for metal particles.

  6. #36

    Re: Re-power Cruisemaster 700 with diesel

    Why the two turbo rebuilds mate?

  7. #37

    Re: Re-power Cruisemaster 700 with diesel

    The standard Yanmar mixer/elbow is crap. It disintegrates and saltwater blows everywhere, all over the blades etc. was the first time. It was its 2nd or 3rd elbow at that stage and the angles were crap held on with clamps. Jimmy built a custom mixer/elbow for it and gave me more height. We went bolt as well instead of a push fit and clamps. The second time we don't know what happened. It was an oil starvation issue and the bearings went. Since then I have bought my service interval down from 250hrs to 150hrs. I've had it rebuilt twice at Mr Turbo at Arundel. I've done at least 2,000 hours trouble free since.

  8. #38

    Re: Re-power Cruisemaster 700 with diesel

    not bad at all mate, two turbo for 10600 hours and still good as gold
    not many outboard will do 1000 hours without problem
    turbo,coolers,pipes, starter,alternator,belts,pulleys, etc are only accessories on a engine
    "i take pit bulls fishing"

  9. #39
    Ausfish Silver Member brett62's Avatar
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    Re: Re-power Cruisemaster 700 with diesel

    Quote Originally Posted by Smithy View Post
    The standard Yanmar mixer/elbow is crap. It disintegrates and saltwater blows everywhere, all over the blades etc. was the first time. It was its 2nd or 3rd elbow at that stage and the angles were crap held on with clamps. Jimmy built a custom mixer/elbow for it and gave me more height. We went bolt as well instead of a push fit and clamps. The second time we don't know what happened. It was an oil starvation issue and the bearings went. Since then I have bought my service interval down from 250hrs to 150hrs. I've had it rebuilt twice at Mr Turbo at Arundel. I've done at least 2,000 hours trouble free since.
    Thanks for sharing the information Smithy. You just can't beat real life experiences. Jim has advised me to throw the 6LP in the boat and still working on what drive to pair it with. I am leaving that up to Jim as well as the man I am sure sleeps with engines. A friend has two 6LP's in a power cat and just had one turbo re built due to build up on the blades and bearings gave in. I am not a mechanic and from reading your post are you saying that the oil is degrading and causing the problem?

  10. #40

    Re: Re-power Cruisemaster 700 with diesel

    Oil in diesels does carbon up. You only have to see it go from the honey/treakle colour to the black sump oil stuff over time. I probably go 50-60hours still golden. One time I had some Caltex people come out on charter with me and one tech there said to just feel the oil. It should still feel viscous and not gritty. In an ideal world where I had a money tree in the back yard, or an oil well and a lacky that worked for peanuts I'd bring my service time down to 50 or even 100 hours. The book does say 250 though and guys running the expensive synthetic oils in the big engines are going way longer than that. The less the better. I think Jim even does his 300 at 50 hours as it is such a high performance outboard wringing every horsepower possible out of 4.2 litres.

    In your situation it would be hard to get Jim to build a custom elbow unless you went to a wet exhaust. Some sterndrives do that though. Your friend's one probably had the standard Yanmar elbow and that is where his problem would lie but I am only guessing. They should be good for 600+ hours I am guessing depending on the instal and maintenance etc. Yours will be better off being on a trailer than living in the water. Giving a freshwater flush will help too. I can technically freshwater flush mine as my raw water strainer height is above my waterline. If I was parking up for a bit I would actually run freshwater through my system. That helps with scale on your coolers and heat exchanger as well. Also after a big run make sure you let your motor idle for a while before switching off to let the turbo cool down. I may have been guilty of not doing that in the past but am very consious of it these days. $1,800-2,000 a pop for a turbo rebuild you'll try anything.

  11. #41
    Ausfish Silver Member brett62's Avatar
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    Re: Re-power Cruisemaster 700 with diesel

    Thanks again Mate. I will certainly be oil changing a lot more as you suggested. For me it will not be a large cost as I am only using for pleasure and I won't leave oil in any engine for more than six months no matter what miles/hours it has. If rednuts is changing his at 50 hours there would be a reason as you have stated they are working up in the top range most of the time and that would be a test for any oil. Going to be forking out a few dollars on something that gives no return on money but a great deal of pleasure so I will be looking after the motor so it gives me many years of service. I was surprised how quite they are also. Many people have said they will be hard on the ears. I find them much the same as the mercruiser I have now.

  12. #42

    Re: Re-power Cruisemaster 700 with diesel

    It all comes down to the insulation. My motor is centre mount with a box on top that has the insulation on it. No noise comes out of that box whatsoever, it all comes out my exhaust which is straight through. If I had a muffler in the system it would be nice and quiet. Another Gold Lotto job!

  13. #43

    Re: Re-power Cruisemaster 700 with diesel

    Yeah as I said a couple years back I figured it'd be an elbow and or setup issue Smithy. Luckily water didn't get back as far as a valve mate. Got lucky in one way I guess!

    It still amazes me the setups that are allowed to be installed into boats by certified people or factories. It amazes me that people can completely ignore the actions of water, and how it always finds it's own level.

    I did a pre purchase inspection on a well respected diesel stern drive powered boat recently. A big brand 6cyl diesel powering a large trailerboat.
    Just eyeballing it I could see from the rust around the turbo to elbow flange the turbo was seeing a lot of salt water. When it was backed down the ramp I insisted the engine be started before reaching full launching depth, as the turbo and elbow spill over height was quite simply lower than the water level. Yes, water back flows up the exhaust. Yes, it's amazing these turbos and engines put up with it as long as they do!
    What happens when the boat is anchored in anything but calm water? Yep, that turbo is seeing salt water often.

    And while the manufacturers can take some blame for lacklustre design it's really up to the "certified" installers to decide if there's enough spill over height within the exhaust (12" minimum in my opinion), and if the elbow design makes allowances for future internal failures. They always fail, and seldom due to "hours", more to "age". Old man time never sleeps.
    Boat manufacturers don't seem to understand either, and rarely is any space left to build adequate height into a custom exhaust elbow, making a relatively easy job (once the concept is understood), far more difficult than it need be.

  14. #44

    Re: Re-power Cruisemaster 700 with diesel

    smithy what about a bypass filter then you could be cleaning your oil and extend your interval back out to 250 hrs?
    http://www.kleenoilusa.com/
    does anyone rate these? there are lots of different types available including the old frantz filters that use toilet rolls which are still meant to do a great job. Filtering donwn to 1 or 2 microns has got to be better than the 25 or 30 full flow filters do. If I had an inboard I'd be keen to get one

  15. #45
    Ausfish Silver Member brett62's Avatar
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    Re: Re-power Cruisemaster 700 with diesel

    Quote Originally Posted by myusernam View Post
    smithy what about a bypass filter then you could be cleaning your oil and extend your interval back out to 250 hrs?
    http://www.kleenoilusa.com/
    does anyone rate these? there are lots of different types available including the old frantz filters that use toilet rolls which are still meant to do a great job. Filtering donwn to 1 or 2 microns has got to be better than the 25 or 30 full flow filters do. If I had an inboard I'd be keen to get one
    I had a look at the site and certainly would help removing particles. I am no mechanic but know my way round a motor a little and while it's a great idea to have the cleanest oil possible to the engine you still have the problem of the oil losing its properties from engines running at the higher end of the rev range as boat engines do. They see a lot of loading also. I think reducing the oil change intervals like Smithy has done would be a better option.


    Woo I know what you are saying. It will be something I will be looking at when the time comes for the install with rednuts. We going to pull the old motor out and then have a clear engine bay and go from there. I put higher risers on the mercruiser due to the reasons you mentioned in your post.

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