Reply With QuoteHi Noel,
Yes I do have a manual. I have used it quite a bit during this excercise as it is quite good at detailing tests etc.
Do you have a manual for your motor???
Hi Noel,
Yes I do have a manual. I have used it quite a bit during this excercise as it is quite good at detailing tests etc.
OK, it is a GENUINE OMC manual?? not a generic like Clymer, the genuine maual will have precise step by step trouble shooting, follow the steps start to finish, it is a simple motor and I am somewhat puzzled about the one cylinder spark business, my thinking is some sort of corroded wire in one of the plugs.
Try running it at night with the cowling off and if the lead is buggered you will see it earth and spark from lead to something metallic close to it . Failing this rest a screwdriver across the lead and earth it, if it sparks at the end of the screwdriver the lead is breaking down.
To start with, top right cylinder is no. 1
Ok, you mentioned you have spark intermittently on 3(1) usually when cold. This sounds indicative of a temperature/resistance related problem.
If you have confirmed that you have good plugs, leads are good, coils are good, power packs are good and stator is good then you really only have one component left and that is the trigger windings (also under the flywheel).
The stator cannot have been the problem as it simply charges the power packs. It's the trigger plate that triggers the power packs to fire. Pretty unusual for an OMC stator to fail and eve moreso for a trigger failure but if does happen.
The rectifier/regulator should have nothing to do with your problem as its simply taking the AC waveform from the stator and rectifying it to DC and regulating it and putting it back into the battery. Erratic tachos are usually tacho or wiring related but can also be affected by a malfunctioning reccy/regulator. Usually the reccy/reg dies and thx tacho dies along with it.
You can check your reccy/reg by checking battery voltage, run engine at say 1500rpm and recheck voltage. A fully charged battery is 12.6V (standard type cranking battery). You should be up around 14v.
Try firing no 4 (the cylinder below) through no 1's coil. That will verify theres no problems downstream of the coil. But if that has a new power pack in that side I think barring some other weird arse issue you have a crook trigger.
Cheers
Standing in a puddle of water trying to earth a sparkplug to the block of a running motor putting out 50,000 Volts is not a good test.
Pulling a lead and seeing no change only means that cylinder is not working, could be anything refugee.
Spark, compression, fuel/air, water.
iboats is a good source for things like spark testing and peak voltage testing.
It's a shame you forked out for all those parts but if I ever need them I'll know who to ask.
I've got a 1988 along with the OMC manual so if you're using a Clymer and need to confirm anything just ask.
proly just a dud lead I recon
Garry
Retired Honda Master Tech
Back to basics then. I'll start with lead and progress up the chain again. I'll try the night running and check for sparking too. If I find the issue I'll post back here. If not, wonder how much I can get by selling the engine for parts :-)
That should have read 'no. 3' not no. 4Originally Posted by bm
OK, hope you guys can check my findings. Problem still exists so while on the water this weekend I started troubleshooting and feel it may be my timer base. Checking the Ohms which should be 38-43 ohms between the white and other wire I found that to a blue wire it fluctuates between infinity and 150ohms as I wiggle the wiring loom close to the base.
Could a faulty timer base cause no spark on 1 cylinder? Thanks all.
Follow the tests in your manual and if the trigger/timer base is out of the designated range mentioned then it's shot.
As a secondary check, take no 3's coil input and feed it into no. 1's input and check that you get spark on no. 1. This confirms the coil and lead and plug are ok on no. 1. You could also switch power packs to confirm the pack is ok also but given its new and so are other components it is kind of pointless but worthwhile in some regards.
Cheers
Your #3 is really #2 (top port side) and guess what, the blue wire feeds that one.
Providing you tested with the wires securely touching the socket holes then 150 Ohms to infinity is no good especially if it jumps around when you move the lead.
BTW the resistance of the sensor coils should be 40 Ohms +/- 10 Ohms with no earth continuity with the plug removed.
Sounds like you're using a non genuine manual.
If you want to do repairs yourself you need the genuine manual, the right test equipment and the right tools, they all cost $$$ which is something to weigh up.
Do you have a tension wrench, flywheel strap & flywheel puller, seriously reffo sometimes it makes better $$$ sense to get "the guy" to do it.
No, he mentioned earlier that his "no. 3" was top starboard cylinder - no. 1.
21
43
As far as the circuit diagram goes and blue to #2.
You're right BM I think I confused myself LOL, so that makes the ohms reading crazy.
Lol. I think the initial description calling it no. 3 set this thing in motion! Lol
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