Reply With QuoteI did that once. It was a wilson aswell. I was a bit pissed and showed the rod off to a mate and I snapped it. I phoned wilson and they told me to return it from place of purchase to arrang a replacement. all was sweet.
Decided to pick up a new rod today. Nothing fancy as budget will not stretch. Ended up buying a Wilson LCS 6 - 14lb spin rod. I brought it home and said to my wife " I know you will be totally enthralled with my latest purchase, look at the the flex in this" and bent the end over no were near as far as I would have with a normal glass rod and the tip snapped off 30cm from the end.
Question is should this have happened or is this common with cheaper fibre rods.
I took it straight back to BCF and they said they would have to talk to rep before replacing.
I did that once. It was a wilson aswell. I was a bit pissed and showed the rod off to a mate and I snapped it. I phoned wilson and they told me to return it from place of purchase to arrang a replacement. all was sweet.
welcome to the world of graphite...and that little manouver there is called highsticking...did anyone of the droids working there explain anything to you when purchasing the rod ? ie about the ways in which graphite rods work or how they should and shouldn't be used ?
Rhyce
As it was Australia Day there were not many staff around. Not their fault as it was fairly busy. Only buying there because I was given gift card for birthday. Originally was looking for a Strudwick but could only find them in 1 -3kg which is a bit light for bay use.Originally Posted by rhycebullimore
Hopefully it is not an expensive lesson on what high sticking is. Suppose at least it wasn't a $600 rod.
alright i will do best to explain...the best demonstration, is with a 37kg stand up gear...if you could imagin that under full load with a nice curve going horizontal from your waist then into a 90 degree bend so the tip is hitting the water...in this state the muscle in your forearm holding the foregrip will be just about busrting out of your skin...now imagin you lifting the rod further up and in the same processthe tip will become closer to the blank of the rod which is now quite high in the air, in doing so the weight/force will transfer from your arm (and where your holding the rod, the butt the strongest part) to the tip and you will notice on heavy gear the most because your arm will stop cramping instantly...now all the weight has transferred to the very tip or where it is bending (usually about 30cm from the tip) and graphite just can't handle these sort of angles where glass will...if you have any more questions feel free to ask, they should do it on warrenty hopefully they don't know what they are looking at.
hey mate
same thing happened to me but with a drop shot
we took it to bcf on the 31st of december and they said they would give us a call that week when the rep had come and we went in every week after and yet again said they would call but didnt
and went in on saturday and they said the rep hasnt come and we have mucked you around we will just give you the replacement
hopefully you have better luck then i had
Unlucky mate but you are not alone. Last weekend I went to Hervey Bay walked into the motel room and stuck my Egrell S4 in the ceiling fan that I didn't notice there. Needless to say it was a metal fan and at the maximum speed. It did a real nice job destroying it.
I could regail many stories of customers 'testing' various rods in the shop and snapping the tips off them. A rod is designed to have the pressure distributed over the blank evenly, thats why they put runners/guides on them. The classic is the old 'grab the tip between the forefinger and thumb and flex it routine'.....guaranteed to snap even the most expensive graphite or glass rod with minimal effort. In thirty years of rod building, repairing and selling I have seen very few (and i dont mean none) breakages in rods that have been fished correctly, within the stated limitations re line class, and not high sticked.
The majority of breakages occur through misuse, ceiling fans, mates 'testing' the tip flex, car doors, low ceilings, tips caught on bushes when on foot, poorly packed for transport, trying to 'bust off' snagged lines, lending to mates who said 'i was just fishing normally', trodden on on the floor of the boat, caught on trees etc whilst in transit in rocket launchers/rod holders.
Anyone who has any experience with building or repairing rods can look at a breakage and be reasonably confident in assessing how that breakage occured. The biggest hint i can give to people is be upfront with the shop you are dealing with....as most manufacturers/agents now will be more than happy to replace the said rod, out of goodwill and to keep you buying their product.
Greg
Last edited by sleepygreg; 26-01-2009 at 11:56 PM. Reason: spelling
One thing I always do while at the shop is ask for a test run loading the rod up.
This way if there is any manufacturing flaw at least it can snap in front of him in stead of later and then having the hassle trying to get warranty
Bravo !!I could regail many stories of customers 'testing' various rods in the shop and snapping the tips off them. A rod is designed to have the pressure distributed over the blank evenly, thats why they put runners/guides on them. The classic is the old 'grab the tip between the forefinger and thumb and flex it routine'.....guaranteed to snap even the most expensive graphite or glass rod with minimal effort. In thirty years of rod building, repairing and selling I have seen very few (and i dont mean none) breakages in rods that have been fished correctly, within the stated limitations re line class, and not high sticked.
The majority of breakages occur through misuse, ceiling fans, mates 'testing' the tip flex, car doors, low ceilings, tips caught on bushes when on foot, poorly packed for transport, trying to 'bust off' snagged lines, lending to mates who said 'i was just fishing normally', trodden on on the floor of the boat, caught on trees etc whilst in transit in rocket launchers/rod holders.
Anyone who has any experience with building or repairing rods can look at a breakage and be reasonably confident in assessing how that breakage occured. The biggest hint i can give to people is be upfront with the shop you are dealing with....as most manufacturers/agents now will be more than happy to replace the said rod, out of goodwill and to keep you buying their product.
Greg
It took me 12 months of searching to find a contract rod manufacturer that could make blanks that could withstand "miss use"
We could always tell if the rod was bent without line or reel through it, because it will always break 1/3 down from the tip.
A correctly loaded rod will break (if load exceeds rating) at the butt end.
But, it is still hard to break a good quality blank by bending the tip over.
Typical manufacturing faults are obvious:
1. The blank failure indicates very uneven thickness
2. The blank at failure point is chalky (Over catalysed resin)
My advice is simple.
If the rod appears to be over catalysed (too hard, because extra catalyst was added to speed up the manufacture process) which results in accelerated age hardening)
Don't buy another one from the same shop, it will be from the same batch !! and have the same resin mix.
Over catalysed rods will bend well when first made and will snap like twigs after 6 months or so.
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