haines 445r-f conversion is under way. Updates regularly

[Noelm]

60MM will be getting pretty snug when you get everything in there, remember there will be (possibly) 2 control cables, a big Motor harness cable, hydraulic lines, plus some odds and ends, they will all fit, but if you need to add something else later, it will be a bugger to pull anything through, I had 50MM on an old Boat of mine and it was chockers!

[Noelm]

I must add, iit is not just the thickness of the cables, it is the "ends" that are on them that need the space, it is a sh!t to try and get a big plug or something through a half full tube!

[mungindi]

G/day Jeffo,
Mate in relation to the size of the conduit to use in which all your'e cables are going to run through, I was advised by the fella who is going to fit up the motor on the boat that I'am building to use 90mm conduit as a minium. Also to try and keep all bends with as large a radius as possible so as to prevent kinking in any cables and to make them easier to pull or push through.
This will also apparently help prolong the life of the cables in the long run apparently, it was put to me to try and get a radius of at least 300mm on all the bends if I could. I couldn't find any 90mm conduit with that size radius so I got a heap of 90mm joiners with different radius on them eg 15 , 30 degrees and the likes and joined them to make as big a curve as possible where ever a bend was needed.
hope this helps
Gary

[jeffo]

thanks guys, i might have to look at a bigger size, or run 2x60mm ones. Hieght under the floor is an issue where i would want to run them or else there is to many bends i think.

[Noelm]

you will be OK with 60, but it may get tricky trying to get anything with a plug/fitting on it through later, especially if it is under the floor and you cannot see what's getting stuck, friction burn can also be a problem in tight conduits, when you pull a plastic coated cable/wire through it burns the insulation off the other stuff in there, seen that hundreds of times, the same applies to House wiring.

[jeffo]

its been a while since my last update, i got sick of taking pics after every day of work. Its been VERY slow going but i can almost see the light at the end of the tunnel now all the stringers and bulkheads have been replaced.

Just a few finishing touches and the floor can be cut and installed. CANT WAIT!!

[djmac]

lookin good mate.

hurry up but eh im stinging for a fish

[pilchardjones]

nearly there jeff. it looks good.
what are you planning for the gunnells and the bow deck area?
steve

[jeffo]

going to cut them up a bit and use foam to re shape them til they look like they are meant to be. Its going to be the most nervous part of the job i think....

[MyWay]

good job jeff
is it going to be ready for weekend

myway

[jeffo]

got the floor bogged and screwed in place today. Now ready for glassing. Cut plenty of inspection hatches to make it easy to get under the floor if there is ever a problem and also to make running cables under the floor easier.

[Jeremy]

been interesting and informative following your progress Jeffo.

What is the ETA for back in the blue water (or is that too painful to think about yet?)

Jeremy

[jeffo]

im hoping to have it done for when i start my chrissy holidays jeremy (3 weeks).

[gavsgonefishing]

Jeff, Only found your thread now. How did you go with the cable ducting? I found once you put the bugger back together you really did need BIG radiuses for cables. The straight bit is good, say 90mm at least but around the corners I ended up cutting the gunnels up so I could get well over 250mm Mungingi had the right idea. The hydraulic cables (if thats what you are using) are the worst for taking around circles.

If you are puting lots of inspection holes in the floor, be aware that water will get in, so therefore will have to get out (have you thought about drainage if this is the case). I have tried this method in about mark 53 part one in my mods, but for me was a pain as after a trip everything was wet including under the floor. All those waterproof hatches were only waterproof in the shops.

I ended opting for a totally sealed floor and "soft floor" (not sure if thats the real name) for the areas which need to be accessed.

The deck on mine is supposed to be waterproof, but I have water outlets now at the side so if I cop a wave the water drains through. I had the drains at the back in different configs including scuppers but didnt realy work on a small boat, so now in modification 147 part 3 I have hole cut above the deck line at the back and the side of the boat. No probs at this time.

The soft floor idea is realy neat, if you are interested just yell.

To be bluntly honest with you, dont leave holes in the floor where salt water will undo all the good work done unless there is no chance of the water getting in.

[jeffo]

flow coating is done and came up well, a little to well, it makes the older stuff on the sides look terrible so that will get done as well.