None taken Brendon!Originally Posted by gofishin
When Dave did the top I had intended that it was just a little higher, I am fairly tall.I do like the lines of it though and while Chimos is an excellent result,There is nothing more that I need from the roof other than to keep out the sun and water, both of which are perfect.
I actually prefer the look of mine to be honest, so that just shows we've both done the right thing.
Cheers
Brendan.
Thanks for the kind words but all I can take credit for is asking my FRP man to do XY and Z and as usual he delivered after the SS guy (since passed on) did his thing.
The SS could do with a little more side to side stability to cope with high speeds in rough water a little better although its not a big thing, just seeking perfection I guess.
Cheers
Chimo
Yep far far be it from me to be critical,
But I had some modification done to the original design to increase strength in the rod holder area, and the lateral movement was factored in at the beginning.
The frp top would of course act as bracing across the top and diagonally, but the weight of it will invariably add a little lateral sway when underway. You'd only really knock that off with diagonal members, a little like the yank alloy tops.
Cheer
Brendan
None meant either !
That I would agree with. My comment (opinion) was more in terms of overall usage/practicality etc, including getting closer to that elusive 100% water tightness, and that bit of extra thermal comfort when the sun is belting down and there is no wind.
However the extra lateral forces generated by the extra weight is a very good point. The yank hard lids I have taken note of seem to have a lot more diagonal bracing than the typical Aussy production model (which are mostly SS compared to anodised alloy).
If I ever build one I will ask Pete(Chimo) if I can bring a beer down and have a look at his/see how he would do it better next time
Cheers
Brendon
Why wait Brendon? With or without the beer is fine.
I have been in conversation with Dave about a hard lid frame for the Victory - without the diagonals, his words were "not a case of if but when" in regards to the stainless cracking. Having beams across the field of vision drives me to distraction so he suggested talking to Alfab. They have told me that the new full height screens have the same base curvature as the lower ones - only drama is the height - They are 600mm high which puts the top of the screen.......right at eye level when you are 6'3". Grrrrrr. More home work to do on this. There are a heap of different ways the tops can be braced - the Haines Hunter type construction may yet be an option. Dave also passed comment that a few boats he had seen also required additional glass work for the hull top itself to tolerate the extra forces imposed by the hard top - not necessarily the Victory as such but something to also be mindful of.
Just had a targa on y 2007 5.5 Viking,done by josh schipps, he might be worth talking too
he did a great job,
I also had a voyager 6.8m hardtop, had to do some cross members but it worked out
the hardtop was a lot cooler than the canvas
I Have raised the seatbase quite coniderably.
If you like sitting ( I have a suspension post drivers side ) then this can work.
Yesterday I was solo and got a bit lazy and slowed down so I could sit for th whole 60 km home.Normally I would just stand.
Never really found the black rag top hot , if we are trolling the front is usually open, if its wet its not a problem either.
All these metal superstructures will eventually crack. Most of the game boat towers crack too.
Whatever design suits you best.
Cheers
Sounds like we need another thread with "ideas, pics & cracks" for rag top conversions to open hard tops?
A little off topic.
I'm looking to replace the Bimini and clears on my V-Sea (see above) so I can stand when driving.
Can I start by adding pieces to the original framework to increas the height.
Will those joins be strong enough or should I start from scratch and build new.
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Start from scratch and get the best.
There are a couple on here that have contacts
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Nice V-Sea. Start from scratch, it won't cost you too much and get it made to suit.
ditto for the remake
you will need to change the geometry nit just extend it.
Taller also means needs to be stronger.
You will be happy you did
Research and comments from the knowledgable people on here have convinced me to start from scratch. Any recommendations for businesses in Sydney (prefer south or south west) to get this done - please send message
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I miss my Seafarer something bad. Just browsing a few video of it and I found this slow motion of its hole shot to WOT. I forgot how much of a roost it could throw
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