Thanks for that tip, Roz. The lighter got rid of the tiny fluffy bits.
Anyone have any pointers on filing down runner feet? When I file down the feet of the 20, 30 and 40 size runners do I file the edges so that there is bare metal clear to the edge of each runner or should there be a thin line of enamel along the very edge of the runner foot?
Regards, Rob.
Ballina
Mate there's no fixed rule.
You just want the gentlest transition possible for the thread to go up (and down) the blank. You just need to get rid of the 'lumpy' bits.
So on those big guides and the size of the blank where they go you probably won't have to take much, if any, off the sides.
The size C thread covers a fair bit as well.
I intend on living for-ever....so far so good
Greetings!
On a 12 foot rod, how far above the top grip should the bind go? 3'' , 4'' or more? I'm just using black thread with a bit of silver at intervals along it rather than a pattern.
Any ideas?
Thanks Rob.
What ever takes your fancy matey.
No fixed rules amd your not going to get shot if you make it 2 or 4 inches.
I reckon they look nice with about 3/4 inch of black and then a trim band of silver (about 6 turns).
I intend on living for-ever....so far so good
Thanks!
Went a hand's width in the end. Triple silver threads with black between, wide, single silver spiral over black and then six silver threads with black between to finish.
Look forward to meeting again Finga.
Rob.
Ballina
Hi mate.
I have just built a jewie rod recently aswell. I chose the FT5162 which is a bit longer. I suggest you use a different thread as your underbinds, as it is very difficult to bind black on black. i used c grade speed thread. For the stripping guide i used a wire ring size 60 because it is fairly robust and a large diametre for the loops coming off a 7 inch alvey
good luck mate
Owen
Hi Owen!
Fraid its just about done. Finga's going to show me how to epoxy the bindings but everything else is pretty much done.
You're not kidding about black on black! The bad weather at Ballina also meant that the light was pretty poor, which made it even more difficult. The rod looks the biz though and has a soft tip and plenty of grunt lower down.
The rod is set up to use with a larger size spinning reel with a 40 guide as stripper. I have a Daiwa Opus Bull 6000 and a 6500B baitrunner. Will use this rod for livies and lures.
I like to use Alveys and tend to do so for bait fishing. Still getting used to them though as I've only used them for a year or two. Got my knuckles wrapped this evening when I caught a 65cm schoolie off the rocks. Used a 12 foot light action beach rod and an Alvey 600 A5. Got him first cast on a 1/0 and prawn on 12 pound. Nice bite, but I was after bream and didn't move my hand quickly enough when he took off!
Regards, Rob.
Ballina
G'day all!
Just wondering.
How many coats of colour preserver on the binding (C thread, black on black with silver twirl)? Three?
How many hours between each coat? Two?
How long before final coat and epoxying? 24 hours?
Regards, Rob.
Ballina
Rob, no CP is required for black or metallic threads.Originally Posted by pommy
Ben
Don't mean to contradict you Ben, but I learned the hard way that some speed brand metalics DO need preserver. I am trying to use up all my speed brand stuff for that reason, although some of their colours are quite good.
BTW the offending thread was metalic blue (dark) size A.
r.
GO THE CRUISER UTES!
....OH WHAT A FEELING!
G'day!
Went ahead and put three coats on with a minimum of two hours between coats. Is the surface of the bindings supposed to be absolutely smooth? What is the purpose of this speed filler? Is it to fill in gaps between some badly laid threads (cough, cough, cough!), providing a flat surface for the epoxy to sit on or is it a sort of soak in glue to bind the threads together?......or both?
Got a bit bored with it after 3 coats so will move on to epoxying over the next few days, unless someone says "Whoa!" put 6 coats on.
Regards, Rob.
Ballina.
G'day all and to Finga in particular if you're looking in.
Epoxying this weekend. Questions!
Do I epoxy some/all bindings at the same time, or do I do one at a time? On Doc Ski's DVD he uses 4 mL of each epoxy (total 8 mL) but this is on a 6ft spin rod rather than a 12ft. Do I do 8 mL worth of bindings and then allow to set before the next lot?
How thick/thin a layer of epoxy do I put on? Do I only put one layer on?
Do I put the epoxy on the underbind between the legs of the guide?
How important is it to rotate the rod while the epoxy sets?
Is 20 minutes the maximum working time I've got to apply each lot of epoxy?
Don't want to stuff things up at the last stage as the rod is looking quite good!
Thanks, Rob.
Ballina
What happened to it Roz?
Rob, if you are using the speed nasty smelling stuff then you won't have any cloudiness from the cp on your black threads. 8ml of epoxy would do a 12' rod. Do a thin coat leave it a day to harden and then do a second coat.
Thanks for that!
Finga has given me the use of his rod rolling rack and a motor for a few weeks. Should I rotate the rod after applying the epoxy? For 2 hours?
Thanks, Rob.
Rotate the rod by hand and let it sit a few moments so the epoxy sags and remove the sags with your brush. Once you have done this half a dozen times or so you'll have a nice even thin coating, you'll probably be able to see threads in places that aren't fully coated just dab a little epoxy on these spots. I put leftover epoxy on a piece of alfoil and use that to gauge when to turn the motor off - basically once it sets enough to not leave residue on your fingers is when I turn off, this can be anywhere from 2-6 hours depending on how accurate you were when you measured and the weather conditions. 24 hours later put your second expoy coat on and that one will really shine, will fully coat all threads and be the final coat - you also get the chance to mess up your first epoxy effort as dips or air bubbles can be fixed at this time.
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