Walldog,
I've never seen any complete tutorials except in Rodmaker magazine.
It goes something like this.
1: Take two highly contrasting threads and wrap them onto your rod side by side. Black & White, or black & Yellow seem popular. Make this wrap very loose as you need to be able to push it around a lot.
To start, wrap only the black for a while until you get it going and then introduce the white beside it. Finish the same way.
2: When you cover the area you want it on, you need to burnish it in different directions so you get wavy lines all over. You want S shapes etc everywhere.
3: Apply colour preserver if required and when dry apply at least four coats of epoxy. You need to have distance between the base wrap and the top wrap in order for the moire effect to work.
4: When the epoxy has set, choose two more threads for the top layer. One of these is going to stay on the rod and become the main color you see. The other is purely sacrificial and will be removed.
So you might choose say a bright blue to keep and a red or something to drop. Just make sure they are both the same size as the bottom threads.
5: Begin wrapping these threads the same way as before but from the opposite direction. So if your base thread was wrapped from left to right, then these should be done right to left. Start the same way using just the blue for a few turns and introduce your sacrificial thread. Just make sure you don't lock the sacrificial thread down!
6: When you have covered the base threads with the top threads, carefully remove the sacrificial thread, making sure not ti disturb the other one as it must remain uniform for best effect. I think some people hit it with a hair dryer first and lett it cool to "set" the reads in the epoxy underneath.
7: Apply your top epoxy.
I've only tried this a couple of times and haven't had one I'm happy with yet.
The first time I used metallic underwraps and metallic top wrap. Looks fantastic inside, but it bright sunlight the effect dissappears completely.
The other used "C" thread as the base and "A" metallic on top.
It didn't work at all. I think the different spacing of threads buggered it.
I think it's a great way of jazzing up a butt easily. I've seen some people do it on guides, but I reckon the bulk on the tip end guides would be too much.
Because it's relatively quick to do, you can practice on an old blank or piece of dowel first.