Splash,
You have picked up some of the best advise you could ever want but one thing i could add is put some new spark plugs in it. It is the only thing i can see that that has been missed.
Lots of luck.
Graeme
THansk FNQ and Gawby.
WHy won't I need ether now? It seemed you were pretty adamant that I needed the ether...?
Gawby - I had put new plugs in Feb this year and boated once (in Feb). Why do I need new plugs? How will cleaning these plugs NOT be sufficient?
SPlash
Last edited by Splash; 09-10-2007 at 01:24 PM.
Ether is a great backup when all else fails, with hope and as a result of your experience on muffs and then the tub of water at home, if you reproduce this experiment at the ramp you should be home and hosed.Originally Posted by Splash
Not trying to talk you out of the ether spray it's good insurance IMO. I always have some handy just incase, but if it is hard to source don't let that delay the other plan.
When is the attempt?
cheers fnq
Thanks FNQ.
What is different about Quicksilver Power Tune to Ether?
Next attempt - maybe/hopefully tomorrow PM or THursday.
THe ramp is right opposite my work so I need to plan around my work hours.. :-(
Splash
Splash, the power tune is one of the carbon removers, it's good stuff, the ether spray is a highly volatile liquid, it will flash (ignite) very easily and promote the the fuel to ignite, too much and the motor will run or over run on the stuff and knock it's own brains out.
Ok look forward to hearing how it ends up.
cheers fnq
just took the plugs out - black, oily, but not burnt - they are new.
What shoudl I do?
SPlash
Last edited by Splash; 09-10-2007 at 07:41 PM.
Splash,
I was only making a comment on the plugs, you say they are new but black and oily.
Give them a cleanup and put them back in.
If there is to much oil on them it will cause hard starting as the electrode is blanketed from the body arm.
Graeme
Thans Gawby.
They were black from oil residue but electrode appears uncoloured and not broken down by long sparking events..
I am glad I took them out and inspected them - thanks for tip.
SPlash
Hi Spalsh,
Got your PM just now, I have been away.
When the boat is in the water, have you tried starting it with the motor tilted out of the water (ie soft start with little RPM) with the water pick ups just skimming the surface?
Then drop it into the water and see if it keeps running?
Might confirm or eliminate the back pressure theory.
How old is the fuel in the tank?
I can't recall, but is your VRO (variable ratio oiling) connected or do you pre mix the oil with the fuel?
If you do pre mix, are you 100% positive that the VRO is disconnected?
THanks MrOmanis.
Yes, tried that - no work.
Fuel is brand new.
VRO used - how do I confirm if connected? And, how woudl this affect different starting locations (home and boat ramp)?
Splash
Splash,
If I recall correctly several images on my computer are of your engine and you were fiddling with changing thermostats etc etc
Did you get your linkages correctly set up again?
OK- In order:
1) Compression test - lets make sure there are no cylinder issues happening
2) Carby linkages setup - all butterflies close together and all open to the same degree in unison
3) You need to check your pick up timing and your max advance - although for starting issues your max advance isn't relevant
4) Make sure your "enrichener" (the black cylinder about 2 inches long and 1 inch in diameter with a red cam on top) is locked off. You know when its off as it "clicks" into the off position
5) Ignition output needs to be assessed
Now, running on muffs but not in the water tells us some basic information. "Free running" as in no exhaust backpressure to keep the engine at equilibrium is an easy condition for even the sickest of engines to achieve. When the engine is in the water the midsection of the engine is full of water, up to about 5 inches below the powerhead. So the engine has to push the exhaust either through that coloumn of water or alternately it pushes a degree of water out the exhaust relief holes at the top of the leg (hence the name exhaust relief).
A strong engine will have no issue doing this. So if your compression checks out ok then I would be looking at spark.
You can do a basic spark GO/NO GO test with a timing light. Check each cylinder is firing consistently. Don't point the light at the timing mark, just point it at your face so you can watch the consistency of the flash.
To really assess your spark you need a DVA meter or knock up a homemade spark stretcher so you can check each cylinder and obtain at minimum 1/2 inch of BLUE spark. Not YELLOW spark as that means low voltage. A simple spark tester can simply be a screwdriver poked in the end of the plug boot and as someone cranks the engine you hold the sparkplug (insulated end) and stretch the spark from an engine bolt or similar or you can make one with a piece of timber and some screws etc or a spray can plastic cap and a couple of bolts etc or buy the Snap On brand spark tester.
Pull all your plugs out to enable the engine to spin rapidly and test each cylinder. If you cannot pull at least a half inch blue spark from all cylinders then (on a JohnnyRude) you likely have a powerpack problem.
Digest and implement the above and get back to us.
Cheers
Last edited by BM; 11-10-2007 at 05:54 PM.
HI BM and thanks fo rpost.
It ran last in Feb this year - after I performed al that stuff on the donk. Ran pretty well I must say and was happy with it. SInce Feb, been in transit, storage, etc.. - without a run on water. Nothing has changed since Feb and even put new plugs in and performed a link/sync (professionally) at a boat dealer. Compression also checked by dealer - all ok.
I pulled plugs yesterday and were prety well guimmed up -but not burnt. All cleaned and back in holes now. I will take rig to boat ramp tomorrow and start/run with ear muffs at ramp - then launch the boat while head still hot/warm.
SPlash
What boat is this engine on Splash? And can you get us a pic of the boat sitting in the water? taken from the stern.
Reason I ask is that if the engine is really low in the water this can make starting very very difficult (the backpressure issue).
Re your plugs, the INSULATOR which is the white ceramic part around the centre electrode should be whitish brown in normal use. Often they end up a bit black and carbonish particularly after slow speed running. But if you went for a high speed blast for 20 mins and pulled your plugs the insulators should be a brownish white.
When you say "gummed up" please describe more explicitly exactly what you saw. Also, when running on muffs are you blowing out a lot of smoke?
Cheers
HI BM.
Haines HUnter SLR 5.3m deep vee hull 1989 model. Will try to get photos.
Engine has started every time on same boat in same position before Feb2007.
Gummed up - blackish residue on top part of plug where it enters cylinder. Looked like unburnt fuel/oil mix..
SPlsh
Why do you run it at home before hand splash? No one i know does and we never do.
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