Nice looking workshop there, should be interesting to see how this progresses... wish I had the skill do something like that.
Cheers
ok have started to make my camper trailer! thought i would post pics of the progress! starting from scratch but it will have everything including the kitchen sink lol!!! anyway once finished will be going to camel campers to get the camper top for it! keep checking back for more pics as i go!
first lot of pics is the full length one piece frame! frame is 75x50x2.5 duragal.
adding the supports:
front out riggers fitted
next i am adding 2 camel camper water tanks under the trailer! you can also see the support brackets to hold them!
have ordered the guards,floor,sides and rear of the trailer today , all has to be bent up and cut to size! will arrive sometime next week!
Nice looking workshop there, should be interesting to see how this progresses... wish I had the skill do something like that.
Cheers
stay tunned i will add more pics as i go!
Hi shano, them be some nice welds there, whats your secret to welding gal.
I grind the gal, then Arc weld the join, and it resembles bird droppings.
buggered if I can weld the stuff it holds but looks like crap.
I would appreciate some stick weld tips on welding gal.
Hey there roughasguts,
The main thing with all welding is to have a clean surface to work with. When welding galwith stick, I find by increasing the apms will help you burn through the gal coating and help the welding to stick to the metal better.
Another thing which may help was many years ago when I was boilermaking and doing a lot gal pipe work there was an item which looked like solder and called a gal stick which you ran over the hot weld and wired brushed it to re-gal the welded area. Dont know if they are still available but ask around they still might be available
cheers bob
Zinc sticks are still avaliable. Roughasguts get yerself some satincraft 13's good for galwork and turn up amp's 10-15 more than usual like true blue said.Don't breath in those fumes mate they'll make ya crook especially with hot dipped gal,dura gal's not to bad put a fan next to ya unless your usin a mig
Thanks fella's, shall bump up the Amps a touch next time.
like the sound of those zinc sticks.
Was using ferro craft 22 rods, last time, slagless or something was given a box, and used around 90 Amps.
But I have a box of un opened satin craft 13's hmmm maybe when I got given the boxes the 13's is what he meant for me to use.
Yeah I always weld out side, better light, and even though i'm a fireman, I have way to many toys in me garage I don't wan't incinerated.
Cheers
Hey roughy ferro 22's are for downhand only we refer to them as farmer craft cos any farmer can use em!They have a high iron count in the flux so they produce a nice smooth weld and easy slag chip,what size were they as 90amp's is a little low for 3.2's the 13's are all positional much the same as gp's(6012-6013)Should be able to get zinc stick's at ya local BOC or welding supply shop there not cheap and you really need a oxy to get them to stick properly. Cheers Dan.........
Last edited by Dan5; 28-05-2007 at 04:33 PM.
yes you can still get the gal sticks they work well! as stated satincraft 13's work well! we have just started to use the hyundi brand of rods S-6013.LF, they are extremely easy to start and weld gal nicely! in any possition!i agree with the turning up the amps this will burn back the gal! work the rod in a backward and fwds movement this burns the gal then when you go back it lets the weld burn in! all my welds are done with mig using spray arc! burns well!
Last edited by shano; 29-05-2007 at 09:02 PM.
Hi fella's well got some gal sticks $6.50 for a 500mm x 6mm bar ea.
The LPG torch will melt it okay, so done some test pieces.
Now this has got me thinking could I treat the rust on me car with this stuff first, rather than the usual kill rust. Would the gal stick make a more permanant repair before the bog and paint job ?
Sorry guy's for going off topic.
Proberbly won't stick to rust when you hot dip something it go's in a acid bath first (i think caustic-maybe?) to clean or eat away any rust/millscale first
well the gal wont kill the rust! and it would be a waste of time trying to coat it! as once you start heating it up it will start poping and spitting at you! best to cut it out weld in new bit! also the heat applied to the panel to melt the gal will distort it! not a good idea!
Nice work Shano looking forward to the following pics.
Were you not able to find a camper that suited you, or are you able to build yourself what you need cheeper. Just curious as there are hundreds on the market.
Would be nice to have the skills to do yourself though, I am turning a little green with envy here.
Tight lines <*)(((((((((><
Last edited by shano; 30-05-2007 at 09:35 PM.
I would not think it would be a good move to go over rust with zink. This will just starve the corosion site of oxygen and make it more anodic. This will give you a small anode and a large cathode which bad.
If you can clean it up real good first it would probably help, but I think it would be just as good to paint it, unless other parts of the car are galv coated already...
Cheers
Rob
PS sorry for the thread highjack...