The way i do it, especially if it is a new brand to the market, find one the size and price of your budget.
Spin the handle and check for vibration at speed. It should have at least 3 bearings, 2 on the spool shaft and one in the handle + line roller.
If one has line on it, test the drag system over a few different adjustments. It should be smooth thru all.
Check the finish of the reel. See if the body is plastic/graphite/alumin. Read the booklet, what is the warranty, is there an agent in your state, or at least in Aust.
If you are satisfied, compare it to another "brand name" of similar price, and then one costing 20-40% more. Is the dearer one worth the difference? Does the other similar priced one feel or seem better?
Finally, ask the retailer what he thinks. If he is reputable, you will get a realistic appraisal.
Hope this helps, as i was trying to decide between an okuma or shimano baitrunner, and ended up buying the okuma, which i have used regularly for 2 yrs of trouble free fishing and saved about $50.