advice needed on separating a corroded FERRULE

Could someone please pass on some help/advice on how to separate an old ferrule.

I've been given a nightmare rod repair.

A workmate has an old solid cane rod (not split cane) and has asked me if I could rebuild it. Of course I agreed not knowing what I would be up against.

Unlike a standard rod, this is as crooked as a dog's hind leg. The original guides..except for one were missing, luckily I had some old matching guides inclusive of a tip that fitted. The fore grip and rear grips were turned out on a lathe, the grooves were full of old mud and varnish which I have now cleaned out and painted over with a proper rod finish, two coats.

Have re glued on the reel seat plus other fittings. The last remaining job is to separate the ferrule.
As far as I know the rod was owned and made by this person's grandfather, so I am doing my best to save and clean the fittings, the ferrule is sending me barking MAD!!! I can't separate it. I have tried, feeding it WD40 with no luck, heat... no luck there, brute force.. no luck. Must add I had no trouble removing the ferrule from the rod, further, I would like to retain the original fitting if at all possible.
Could anyone throw a few ideas please.

Much appreciated :)
Cheers Roz

Heat is your best friend for seperating frozen metal fittings - only heating the outer part so it expands quicker than the inner. Only drama in this situation is that the required amount may well do other damage. You could try a better grade of penetrant - something like "Yield" (pricey though) - one treatment may not be sufficient with multiple applications over a period of time required but in my experience nothing beats thermal expansion.

I boiled one onceout of sheer frustration for zbout 10mins after trying most everything else and it came apart though it helps if you have 2 sets if hands. Good luck in your endeavours.

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Originally Posted by scottar

Heat is your best friend for seperating frozen metal fittings - only heating the outer part so it expands quicker than the inner. Only drama in this situation is that the required amount may well do other damage. You could try a better grade of penetrant - something like "Yield" (pricey though) - one treatment may not be sufficient with multiple applications over a period of time required but in my experience nothing beats thermal expansion.

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Yield is great on rusty bits but this ferrule I would wager is brass and it won't work well.

thanks for your reply. The ferrule is not brass, some sort of alloy at a guess, (silver in colour) however the corrosion has a green tinge so there may be some brass included??? after years of working in a lab my science knowledge involves chemistry...physical & chemical testing but nothing to do with metals...
Will give your advice another try.
Thanks heaps.
Roz :)

Will do.
The owner of the rod will likely pay for the Yield, on the other hand I may use it again on my stuff.
Thanks heaps for the reply.
Roz :)

Must add, a friend did suggest soaking the ferrule in petrol.
Has anyone tried that with success??

Have used diesel on tug tow pins that were seized solid to the point the hydraulics wouldn't lift them from their housing so petrol may work????

Thanks guys:):)
I eventually gave up, I tried everything that was suggested without a result. I managed to get a similar ferrule for $20, I had to sand back some of the cane rods surface to allow for a working amount of epoxy to take effect.
They were so happy with the result they wanted to put the rod on their wall, I said "no way" I didn't go to all that trouble for it to collect dust... they were worried about it breaking due to its age, I responded tell them to just use it for bream and whiting, to adjust the drag on the reel to produce little resistance.. they get it.

Again, thanx heaps.
Cheers Roz :)