View Full Version : Electronic Rustproofing Good or Bad ?
09-05-2004, 07:27 AM
Greetings all.. I am about to take delivery of a new Prado and a number of people are recommending electronic rustproofing and a number are not. It would be great to get some feedback (the pros and cons) from anybody that has had experience with it or can recommend a good alternative. I intend to use the vehicle on the beach.
09-05-2004, 07:38 AM
Would be interested to know the reasons why those that recommend not.
Got a new 100 series a couple of years ago, got both electronic and full fisholene treatment. 3 grades of the oil, fine spay inside doors etc, medium most other panels I think, and heavy under carriage. My old man did the same to his nissan and in the 6 or 7 years hes had it, bugger all rusting. Both cars live about 20m from beach, and regularly go beach fishing.
I'd be getting all the protection you could, but wouldn't rely just on the electronic.
10-05-2004, 10:01 PM
Endrust were offering the electronic rustproofing free of charge at one stage, not sure if this was to help out there efforts or to try and convince people it isn't worth it.
No matter what you get, you cannot beat a good hosedown and clean when you come home.
I agree with the Gorilla, to much is always better than not enough.
Let us know which way you go.
11-05-2004, 05:40 AM
You must be earning too much money to be getting a new Prado ;D. A couple of guys at work have these but you have to watch wich one you get. There is one that has sacrificial annodes throughout the vehicle which is apparently not as good as the one with just one or two cable connections (fitted at the motor dealer). I was going to get the Pajero done but it all got too confusing so I didn't bother. I'll have to stop looking for the falcon on the road. See ya around soon.
11-05-2004, 11:36 AM
I've looked into this quite a bit and it seems the best option is to get the "old fashioned" spray as the best option and consider the electronic as an extra. It can help with paint chips and what not but even though the spray is cheaper, it's generally more effective.
Some theories say that ERPS works so well on piers is that they are constantly wet with salt water enabling the charge from the coupler system to work. I'd go both if you can afford it, otherwise the spray first.
11-05-2004, 01:55 PM
Whats the going price for rustproofing these days? Interested in getting it done before hitting the beach in my gf's rav4...
11-05-2004, 08:25 PM
Dane, last time I checked it was around $800 for endrust. That was a year ago and country prices, so it may be cheaper in the cities. This was for an 80 series Cruiser.
11-05-2004, 08:55 PM
unless youve got the gear to do it urself or know someone who has it
12-05-2004, 05:10 AM
Yes a lot to consider before ever driving on the beach.I have a mate who goes to Frazer Island yearly, and he spends almost a full weekend getting his HILUX ready, fishalene, spraying lanoguard on motor, pull guards off etc. , and another weekend when he gets back cleaning it all up with a water gun, and even then he still finds pockets of fine sand in nooks and crannys up to a year later..
Another main concern is depreciation, see how many 4wd adds in the paper say "no beach", it's for a reason, people tend to stear clear of buying a second hand 4wd thats been on the beach, because they dont know how careful the previous owners were.
Even at the Govt. auctions, which is where I bought mine , they make a point of telling you if a vehicle has been on the beach. And they generally sell for about 5 thousand less, even if you can see no rust or corosion damage at all...
Don't know how long you are intending to keep it , but in a new Prado that first trip up the beach will probably cost you up to $5,000. :P
14-05-2004, 01:03 AM
How many of them say no beach but are full of s#@t!!!.......
14-05-2004, 11:19 AM
Hopefully none at the Gov. auctions., Most are RACQ inspected.
Privately though, probably half of em are full of shit.. If you get it up on a hoist and know what to look for you can usually tell... If you are spending much it, it is usually wortwhile paying the $120 odd for an RACQ inspection.
14-05-2004, 03:10 PM
Word of warning, I heard electric rust proofing makes your battery go Flat ::) then the rust takes over
16-05-2004, 01:08 AM
be very cAreful as some of the eletric ones only work when the humdity is over99 precent
16-05-2004, 04:56 PM
I find it hard to believe that on a car that is used daily or regularly that the batteries would go flat with the electronic ruxt control, but I would be interested to know which brand people have heard good or bad things about, expecially the batt flattery stories and the over 99% humidity. I'm not sure it we can name brands on this site, but it is done on others.
17-05-2004, 11:44 AM
Thanks for the feedback everybody. I will probably get the elec rustproofing and also get it it sprayed. As for flattening the battery I'll just holler for a marshal.
18-05-2004, 05:05 AM
My brother has got electronic on his Hilux, It is not driven all that regularly. Takes about 2 weeks to flatten the battery with no use. :P
20-05-2004, 11:36 AM
... Interested in getting it done before hitting the beach in my gf's rav4...
word of caution. We had ravs in our rental fleet a few years back. Unless they have done some major work on their engine bay set-up & clearances these are not a beach vehicle - despite the advertising.
The earlier models had exposed powerpacks etc that simply rotted out within months of touching the sand despite engine bay cleanouts from our crew. Several instances of towing on the beach simply from being "slung up". The vitaras no such problems.
20-05-2004, 01:45 PM
I have a mate who has a rust converter on his Patrol and not a spec of rust seems to have appeared on the body for the last 6 years. However the windows at the back are a different story as the pulsation doesn,t get to window as the rubber seal acts as a barrier therefore rust loves the back windows. Every time we go up the beach you can,t beat finding a good fire hose somewhere and giving it a good blasting. cheers darren
31-05-2004, 01:42 PM
buddy has 80 serries landcruzer has both electric and sprayed proofing,, no rust.
8weeks a year on the beach.
has extra pad put in rear panel to even up the layout.
Cheers cloud 9
03-06-2004, 03:45 PM
We've got a '99 Grand Vitara, and it's got the electronic rust proofing only. Never any problems with flat batteries, or not working under 99% humidity. So far no rust either, with regular, monthly trips along the beach. But u gotta keep 'em clean, gets a regular Guni also. Only living 500mts from the water, we're in a 'salty' environment anyway.
09-06-2004, 04:56 AM
I work in the electronic industry and know the company that makes one of the major brands of these Electronic systems, no, I can't get a discount ;) and personally I don't trust them. Having said that the guy I know who makes them has one on his landcruiser and it seems to work. Mind you he changes his car every 2 or so years, so it's hard to ascertain if it is really effective.
I still prefer to cover all exposed areas with something like fish oil or ormanoid paint (see other chat on rustproofing)
07-07-2004, 06:34 AM
My mate has a new series 100 cruiser and it has the electronic on it. He had 8 points put throughout rather than the 6 standard points. He bought his when on special so thats why he got the extra 2 installed. Not long ago he knocked off his rear dust reflector and it took out a chunk of paint leaving bare metal showing. He didnt realise it at the time and only found it recently. The bare metal is still shiny silver metal with no sign of rust whatsoever. This convinced me to go electronic when I do mine. Another mate advised me to do electronic first, then if I wanted the conventional as well, do it after electronic.
11-07-2004, 09:35 PM
Thats right Les , and i'm the guy with the 100 series he is talking about.
I was told by a VERY reliable source that you MUST be very carefull which elecric one you go for.
DO NOT under any circumstances go for the el-cheapo ones as they are what is called a " Cathodic" system and whatever they are going to protect must be immersed in water to enable them to work properly.
The one and only one to go for is ERPS as it has a basic 4 diode system and is capable of up to 0
11-07-2004, 09:45 PM
Try again---- hit the send button before I finished ....clown I am ----As i was saying in the previous post ..... Thats right Les , and i'm the guy with the 100 series he is talking about.
I was told by a VERY reliable source that you MUST be very carefull which electric one you go for.
DO NOT under any circumstances go for the el-cheapo ones as they are what is called a " Cathodic" system and whatever they are going to protect must be immersed in water to enable them to work properly. So go drive ya $50000 vehicle in the salt water and park it while you fish ( NOT )if you but these types.
The one and only one to go for is ERPS as it has a basic 4 diode system ( 6 for beach pack )and is capable of up to 10 i am led to believe ..it sends a negitive charge through the vehicle and rust hates negitive charge, and will not start or even continue growing if there is any present rust ,while it has charge going through the body . Mine is hooked up to the main battery as it is the one which gets the full charge no matter what, and is the 1st to get replaced if there is any chance of going flat. OLBIS at Rocklea installed it for approx $650 on special with 2 extra pads, that was last august and there is absolutely no sign of rust anywhere , and she's been to Fraser-Double Island Pt , Teewah..
Powered by vBulletin™ Version 4.1.3 Copyright © 2013 vBulletin Solutions, Inc. All rights reserved.