View Full Version : Restoring solid glass
13-09-2006, 06:17 PM
I've sanded back a solid glass rod prior to rebinding, I've got discolouration on the blank due to sun fading except where the original bindings were. I also got glass fibres off when sanding a little excessively. What is the best way to treat the blank before binding, will automotive 2 pack do the job??
13-09-2006, 09:15 PM
I've got a couple of those here to shayne. I did try shellac years ago as it was the closest to the original finish and darkened any faded ares enough to give new appearence. Are you restoring for use or show?
I'd like to get some original wire runners for mine.
As for treating before binding, I'd just sand it lightly and with the finest grade wet and dry to get a smooth finish which wil be the best for overall looks when finished.
I'd have a look for a good hard wearing laquer for the finish, may-be a lightly tinted exterior estapol for the rod itself after you've sealed the bindings.
13-09-2006, 10:37 PM
One of the biggest problems with sanding any blank is exposing the fibres. There is a couple of ways to do it, tint some finish this will provide a suitable finish. Two pack auto paint with a flex additive is a good choice but unless you know someone in the industry it isn't a cheap way. Another way is get some 1 pack urethane from the marine shop and paint it.
Can you PM your location as I might be able to help if you are on the north side of brissy.
21-09-2006, 08:42 PM
Restoring old rods is a special part of my business.
Mostly they are for show, as the old rods may have belonged to a family member.
But also I restore solid rods for use.
Do not worry about removing the colour from a blank.
Think of it as a coat of paint, over the actual structure.
Those fibres are fine as long as you get the surface smooth again.
Never use automotive products on fishing rods , no matter how good the thinners are.
Model spray paints are better. if you need colours and the chemical base is closer than automotive paints.
You can recoat with 2 pack epoxy if you are intending to use the rod or you can use any of the single application finishes available.
Do some more research before you commit every rod builder has his own ideas built up from his own personel experience.
Good luck, once you start putting some of the old blanks back into service you will find how good they are. But it is expensive in both time and parts to restore an old rod .
21-09-2006, 08:49 PM
Is it possible to still get the formed wire guides that were on some older rods? I have a couple here that were my Dad's and I have replaced all the runners with red/white ceramic ones a few years back and I think Iw ill restore them to their former glory and just display them. Do you know the guides I mean, they were a single piece of heavy gauge wire formed to make the guide. They aren't the braised ring type.
22-09-2006, 11:38 AM
Getting confused now, this rod is going back into service as an estuary live/big bait rod for bull sharks, the bugger would be too heavy to cast all night long. It's a practice run prior to restoring an old len butterworth rod of dad's for display purposes only. I'd like tohide the discolouration but its not important but sealing the rod is, if fibres have now been exposed I assume it will continue to happen. Ideally someone will recommend a product that will do the job prior to rebinding. I'll stick some pics up to see if that helps.
22-09-2006, 11:39 AM
22-09-2006, 11:41 AM
22-09-2006, 11:42 AM
clean up shots
22-09-2006, 11:43 AM
clean up shot
22-09-2006, 11:44 AM
clean up shot
22-09-2006, 11:46 AM
clean up shot, you can just see the change in colour where the binding was.
22-09-2006, 11:47 AM
22-09-2006, 05:02 PM
As I said you can coat it with rod finish but it is not that durable. Auto two pack polyurethane is perfect for the job, it will not damage the blank at all, it uses a catalysis to harden not thinners. There is a product designed especially for this it is called Permagloss, it is a 1 part urethane that sets by exposure to moisture in the air, not bad stuff but doesn't take to tinting so well. It also is a hot solvent so it will melt plastics. Again this can be applied with one of those foam brushes. I use this to restore the orginal Ugly sticks. Good venterlation needed. Also not easy to obtain here.
With the fibers if they are bad you will need to trim them or they will want to push through what ever finish you use.
But looking at the rod using rod finish will work OK as it's in not bad condition, can you pm your email if you are on broadband I can send you a file.
22-09-2006, 05:13 PM
Shanye also deleted your mobile number.
24-09-2006, 10:56 AM
I do not know of a supplier of the old wire guides.
I scrounge markets for old rods and also keep bits and pieces from rebuilds and repairs.
I will look through my junk box and see what I have, will get back to you in the next day or two.
24-09-2006, 11:18 AM
Re rod finish.
MYLES may be onto something I have not come across so if you can track down the product he suggests give it a try.
The reason we do not use auto paints is that they generally do not stand up to the flex of constant use. However I have not investigated new products in this area for many years being happy with what we do.
The best product in my opinion for finishing your bindings is called DURA GLOSS LS SUPREME. It is an american product distributed here in Aus by PACIFIC COMPONENTS. Your local tackle shop should be able to get this for you.
Also never forget ERSKINE EPOXY this has been around forever and has stood the test of time especially in hard knock conditions.
Most tackle stores should carry this as standard.
For colour on yor rods contact the manufacturers if they are Aussie, most are very helpfull.
24-09-2006, 04:05 PM
Permagloss is made by Trondak same as the LS supreme etc. Ralph O'quinn is developing a new finish that will be anti yellowing and thread fading, using the same base as the LS Supreme, will be something when finished. I still like my old flexcoat. Just not imported here due being a hot solvent base.
Any auto paint is fine really buy you need to add a flex addative, that auto painters use on the plastic bumpers and trims. Still like any refinishing job good surface prep is needed more so than is required for the auto industry.
24-09-2006, 06:52 PM
thanks for the tip on permagloss. I cannot find it in my catalogue but will ask distributor next time we are in touch.
A company called FREEWAY distribute flexcoat in aus.
I do not know where you are but Exclusive tackle (freeway) I think are the main distributors they are based in QLD.
Agree prep is most important to finish.
Still would not use auto finish for colour, but understand your point on an additive for the plastic on modern cars.
Nice to exchange ideas.
26-09-2006, 07:31 AM
Sorry guys meant Permagloss isn't imported due to being a hot solvent. I down here Sydney rubbing the NSW folk on the Broncos being in the finals again. Way too many rums.
06-02-2007, 11:30 PM
I know this is an old thread, but has the Veteran been out and done battle with bullsharks, or did you relent and buy a Silstar pc701swm/ugly stick/?
I did see some paperclip looking runners on a Loomis last year...... should help keep the budget down :)
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