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MY-TopEnder
13-04-2004, 05:29 PM
Hey Guys...

This is only my second post to bear with me here.

Basically i have an Allycraft 435 Top Ender... the usual bow rails, two thwart seats, low carpeted floor.. all that guff.

Lately i've been bream chasing using softies and i'm pretty keen to set up a casting deck at the front for easy access.

Has anyone else done something similar? i'm a handyman by "trade" after hours so cutting it and so on isn't a problem its how to go about bracing it and so on that i haven't ever looked into.

The floor thats in there now uses bracing that goes from each of the reinforcing beams so would a similar setup with timber work? i really don't want to be welding in there.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Big_Kev
13-04-2004, 10:34 PM
I have seen these things made at the same level as the thwart, with some alluminium angle riveted to the thwart to support the board. worked well and looked good carpeted as well.

Jeremy
14-04-2004, 03:03 AM
I agree, alum angle rivetted off the front of the forward seat to support the ply. Not sure what you are going to do at the front of the ply - may be possible to use more angle. You may also need additional timber bracing in the middle fo the ply. I wouldn't want anymore than 30-40 cm of ply between the supports to be walking on. Also make a removable hatch in the casting deck for storage.

Jeremy

MY-TopEnder
14-04-2004, 09:09 AM
Thanks for the suggestions guys.

What i'm planning is a marine ply floor with supports somehome across the ribs of the bottom and then actually across the top of the seat screwed down onto it. That way i can take out some of the foam and put my bait well in the seat and still have the bit under the new floor as all storage.

And because there is something like 20cm under the seat, i'll seal off one side then have like an enclosed locker under the seat to allow for tackle box storage.

Should look decent when its all done and carpeted and so on.

Now i just have to work out how the hell to do it.

When i do though i'll put plans and step by step photo's up for anyone keen to have a look.

Gorilla_in_Manila
14-04-2004, 03:06 PM
There is usually a little compartment up the front of the tinnies, that is the same level as the front bench seat. A 3/4 inch sheet of ply spanning the 1m or so between the seat and resting on the compartment vertical, is the easiest way to put in the front casting deck and shouldn't need other supports. (I'm 110kg and there is not the slightest bow with 3/4 inch) If you cover the whole top of the seat with the ply and screw it to the seat, it wont go anywhere. If you want access under the front area, just cut the section of ply out so that it laps about an inch over the bench seat, and an inch over the front compartment wall, then add a block of wood to the bottom of the ply lift out bit that sits snug up aganst the front compartment wall, so the ply lift out doesnt slide forward. Cut a finger hole in the middle of the lift out bit, and Bob's your Mother's brother.
I actually boxed up three separate sections under the front casting deck, one with the battery, one in the middle to house the portable fuel tank, and one as a stowage box for whatever the front fellow wants to stick in there. In this case I did need to put vertical supports under the front deck. Its a lot of bloody hard work. I cut two pieces of ply to the correct shap to fit vertically on each side of the centre section, the bracketed them with aluminium angle on each side running vertically down the front face of the bench seat. Then made some L brackets out of aluminium strip to secure the ply where it rested on the rib just in front of the bench seat, then another two pieces of aluminium angle to secure the front running verticallyt up the compartment wall and either side of the ply. Actually the front compartment wall sloped backwards, so it was a pretty funny shaped bit of ply by the time I got it all fitted. Best to get a bit of cardboard first and keep trimming it until you get it exactly to suit, the vertical bench seat, the casting deck level, the rib positions, the curve of the bow section and the vertical compartment wall, then use it as a template.
I'll probably be back in aus in a few weeks time and can take some photos and post them (assuming I can get access to a computer and line) if you are interested. You'll probably have it all done by them anyway.
Good luck,
Cheers
Jeff
If you want any tips on mounting front and rear stainless steel electric cigarette lighters and stainless insulated stubbie holders, let us know.
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