floor install question

[grunter_boy]

Hi all,

I recently won a Stessl 385HD edgetracker and am now wanting to put in a floor. Are there any pitfalls that I should be looking out for. I'm getting the struts welded tomorrow morning and am doing the timber and carpet myself. What type of timber is best ?? I've always thought that marine ply was the go, but someone said that I should be looking at builders form ply. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

GB

[Needmorerum]

Not 100% sure, but I think you will find that all the new boats are done with builders ply, or normal ply. I'm pretty sure my Stacer is. Can's see a reason not to use it. I would probably seal the edges with some laquer, paint or similiar. I think the only difference between marine ply and builders ply is the glue used to stick it together, therefore sealing it would be fine.

Hope this helps
Corry

[grunter_boy]

Thanks Corey. I notice you have a picture of a 395 stacer on your web site. Out of interest, how high is the floor in relation to the bottom of the rear seat. I'm not sure whether to get the floor level with the bottom of the seat or a bit lower.

[Volvo]

:)Marine ply or Form Ply....Though you might find the marine ply a bit exy..

[Wild_Side]

GB, I thick form ply and marine ply are one an the some.
But as far as ply for a boat floor go for a light weight 12 or 15mm internal ply and seal the hole lot with and epoxy based paint. If your struts are no more then 400mm apart you should use the 12mm ply to cut down on wieght.
Hope that helps. 8)

Wild Side [smiley=sneaky.gif]

[paz]

mate i used 9mm lauhan(spelling) ply for my floor in my little 12 footer,,floor braces are about 350mm apart....works a treat...a made it as low as i could,,but still be nice n flat,,,,the guy i got it off had form ply(19mm thick) and it was way to heavy...
paz

[cjbfisher]

Use an exterior grade ply with an "A Bond" glue. This is the same glue that is used in marine ply. The ply will be available with several different grades of finish. A grade being the best. If you are covering with carpet, there is no need to go for anything more than C grade. Definately give the ply and good seal with a marine grade paint or varnish. Spend a little more time in the first place and you will have a lot more trouble free boating in the future.
I have built floors into two boats in the last four years, and have not had any problems yet. The first boat lived outside for two years, and when I sold it, the floor and hatches were still as straight as the day I made them. You will see some brand new boats with warped hatches and they haven't even left the yard yet. The only thing I did wrong with this boat was to use 15mm ply instead of 12mm.
The second boat is only just finished, and I used C/D grade ply with four coats of marine varnish. I have spent a bit more time doing this one, so I am hoping to get a good five years or more out of it.
Hope I've helped.
Cheers,
Chris

[DR]

you could have alook at Nylex 'Celluka' Board.can be cut drilled etc. just like timber.
if in Brisbane give BFS a call. 3276 7933
it's a type of plastic that does not need sealing & won't rot,will need carpet as would be slippery when wet.
cheers

[grunter_boy]

Thanks to all for the replies. The welding for the floor is happening as I type. This is my first attempt at this sort of stuff, so if you see anymore messages from me, it'll probably be because I've stuffed it up and am looking for ways to fix it.

Blackie

[Aaron_Fogarty]

Mate
1.Fitted 100 of them at the shop.
2.Buy 2 pieces of 12 mm water proof ply.
3.make a cardboard template for the floor out of wollies boxes, then cut the template down the middle bow to stern.
4.Cut each half from each sheet of ply. You should have enough left to do the rear fueltank battery shelf.
5.If you want to carpet it with marine carpet like the pros do take off 10mm around all edges of each piece of timber.
6. Fold the carpet around the edges and glue it underneath, after glueing it to the top side of each board.
7.Fit your boards, in 99% of cases you should get no gaps as the carpet can take up any errors.
8. Secure with a countersunk head stainless self tapper with a raised washer.

Easy peasy
Aaron

[moater]

Be sure to have it anchored down firmly as I've seen a tinny with quite a bit of metal worn down where the floor had bumped and rubbed over time (don't know how long).The floor was just wood to metal with no carpet etc.