View Full Version : Tinka Trailers & regalvanising
popzitterati
04-01-2005, 06:52 AM
I have an older Tinka single axle trailer. It came with the boat ('86 Haines 445C) so I guess the manufacture year is about 85/86.
Firstly does Redco make Tinka trailers?
Does anyone know how to contact Tinka for maunfacture info for re-registration as there are no plates?
Roughly how much should I expect to pay for replacing the old axle, springs & regalvanising the frame? Any any suggestions for who is the repairer of choice in the Cleveland Brisbane area southside area?
Bundaberg_Bandit
04-01-2005, 07:19 AM
I built my own trailer, modelled of an old redco that was falling to bits.
Once I had finished it I had it all hot dipped, and they charged me $1.60 / kg in Bundaberg. So it will depend on how heavy your trailer is, or they may have flat rates for trailers in your area.
axles can vary depending on the thickness, and I put on single leaf galvanised springs for about $100 pair I think ( ???)for 600kg ones.
Hope this helps
cheers
Bundy Bandit
Needmorerum
04-01-2005, 10:55 AM
Once I had finished it I had it all hot dipped, and they charged me $1.60 / kg in Bundaberg.
Hope this helps
cheers
Bundy Bandit
Hey Bundy, do you have any contact numbers for the mob that you went to? I am wanting to get my Shorty Cruiser chassis gal dipped. What preparation did you have to do before it could be dipped.
Corry
Bundaberg_Bandit
04-01-2005, 11:10 AM
Kenco Galvanising did mine a couple of years ago (4151 2944).
I built my trailer from galvanised box, but i also wanted all the welds to be completed protected as well.
It will cost you more if they have to double dip it, ie the frame is too big for the tank.
I had to drill holes in all the end sections to allow the gal to drain out, they even did some more holes to make sure they were adequate.
Also, remove anything from the trailer that wasn't fixed, so it is basically just the frame, the gal process and heat will wreck any threads, springs or nuts left on the thing.
cheers
Bundy bandit
Tezza985
04-01-2005, 11:15 AM
Corry! Had one done years ago, but from memory, "Not very good these days," Wheels and Rollers come off, plus all electrics anything that is not fixed to the trailer, then a very good sand blasting before being hot dipped galvanised.
Tezza.
Dignity
04-01-2005, 03:19 PM
pop..... I had my tandem axle trailer repaired and regalvanised 12mths ago. Not sure if I would do it again as the sandblasting can't get up box channels very far so in reality I have no real idea how well the gal has taken where I can't see. Also the cost was prohibitive - $1200 for the sandblasting alone. You will need to replace the springs and usually Superch..p do have gal springs although you will have to search far and wide for galv U bolts. There is only 1 place in Brisbane that I have found them and then they dont have every size.
Dignity
04-01-2005, 03:23 PM
forgot - if you do go down this path don't forget the tyre rims although by the time they are sand blasted and galv'd I think check the price of new galv rims
popzitterati
04-01-2005, 03:43 PM
Thanks everyone. Dignity , where was the place you mentioned that had galv U bolts?
popzitterati
04-01-2005, 03:50 PM
Anyone know of a onestop place they would recomend for galv axles in the Brisbane southside?
Dignity
04-01-2005, 04:04 PM
me thinks it was called Trailer World at Springwood next door to the Pub Shop. They seemed to have most things necessary.
Needmorerum
04-01-2005, 05:13 PM
I'll give these guys a ring soon and see what they can do for me. The chassis is made from 'C' Channelling, so getting into all the nooks and cranys is simple. Not sure about the $1200 cost though. Could get a replacement chassis for that. Probably could even use Galmet or one of the spray on Gal paints instead.
Corry
cooky
05-01-2005, 06:34 AM
use Galmet or one of the spray on Gal paints instead
where do you get these from? and how do they work?
Although my trailer is only 4 years old (Dunbier) I have noticed the gal going white (ish) at the rear and looks thin (surface rust) on areas like the edges of mudguards, etc. I would like it to last as long as possible and believe in PREVENTATIVE maintenance. Am interested in possible solutions, ideas
Cooky, white rust is caused by moisture. Do you put your trailer away while wet? Is it stored under cover, say in the garage.
When you wash it down, take it for a drive up the road tp dry it off.
Also . Lanoline grease, or Valvoline Techtyl ( spelling ?) brushed on , will also help with the problem, but you need to redo this from time to time as it is not permanent, but easy to apply.
Get Valvoline from Super cheap.Its actually for enclosed
sections, but great for your purpose, but as I said not permanent.
I sealed my cross sections, partly filling them with soluable oil. This protects the inside channel, and absorbs any moisture. I let the oil out once a year to inspect how it looks.
Dont recommend a rebuild, as you dont know what you might find. Rip off any gear that is still usuable, and buy a blank from a manufacturer.
This is a far better option, thust me.
Regards david
Needmorerum
05-01-2005, 06:35 PM
where do you get these from? and how do they work?
You can get them from most hardware stores, or any of the industrial painting outlets. Not sure which ones in the Brissy area, but I'm sure if you let your fingers do the walking you'll find one.
If your doing any welding to Gal steel, you can also get Galvanising Sticks that you put over the weld when hot. You can do it to older welds by heating them up with an Oxy and then rubbing these sticks on. They look like the large solder rods you get and melt in the same manner when applied. Very handy.
Corry
cooky
06-01-2005, 04:35 AM
thanks guys - I don't store away wet - outside on the driveway. But previous owner did store undercover - inherited. It doesn't look bad - only the arse end which goes in the water when launching, etc. doesn't look as good as the front - I just want to make sure it lasts
billfisher
06-01-2005, 05:58 AM
Trailers rust because the galvanising is porous and so absorbs saltwater when launching and retreiving. There is nothing you can do about this except apply some sort of protective coating. Tectyl is the best I have found as it stays on much longer than the other coating mentioned. The trouble is I haven't seen in the stores for quite a while. I will give Supa Cheap a try. #
Dignity
06-01-2005, 01:53 PM
super cheap is where I find it - they often run out or maybe thay only get a few cans in (liquid and spray)- if there is rust already evident i would make sure it is brushed off first and then I would apply penetrol or a rust converter first. After using Tectyl and it dries I overspray with good old silver frost. The Tectyl dries the same colour as rust and therefore hard to see if it comes through again. I Tectyl'd my trailer after it had been rebuilt and redipped.
Sam
popzitterati
07-01-2005, 04:58 AM
Hi Dignity, what is Silver Frost? Is it a coat of paint to lock in the tectyl?
Dignity
07-01-2005, 07:21 AM
go to Bunnings or other hardware and buy cans of spray paint - colour "Silver" . In the old days you could buy it in a paint tin as Silver Frost. It was much better than the stuff you buy these days, maybe you can still buy it I don't know as I get lazy and buy the spray on stuff.
Dignity
07-01-2005, 07:25 AM
it is not lock in the tectyl but a cosmetic approach - as mentioned earlier the tectyl is rust coloured - looks a bit yucky and it could take a while before you notice rust starting to appear. Make sure you buy the right stuff although from memory Supa Cheap only stock the stuff for steel. You can get tectyl for aluminium and other metals, these are usually clear and are not suitable for iron/steel.
popzitterati
07-01-2005, 01:59 PM
Thanks,
I was in Supercheap today and they had both Tectyl for Alum and also the one for Steel but as has been said only a limited supply.
Also had a visit to the guys at Trailer World at Underwood and they were real helpful and sorted me out for gal springs and a new gal axle and other bits.
Thanks a heap for the tips fellas.
Bundaberg_Bandit
07-01-2005, 02:03 PM
What prices were you quoted on an axle, that was the only thing I didn't renew on my trailer when building it.
I know different widths will cost different, but I was after an idea of how much they cost
cheers
Bundy Bandit
popzitterati
07-01-2005, 02:10 PM
I think it was about $160-175 for a 2.2 m wide axle to be made up
Dignity
07-01-2005, 04:41 PM
Great popzitterati, from memory I think I went there after I had my trailer rebuilt and found it was probably the same price if not cheaper to buy a galv rim for the tyre. Hope you still bought some of the tectyl for alum - never had any of that white corrosion occuring especially around those swivel seats etc
popzitterati
08-01-2005, 04:07 PM
Silly question but bear with me,
Which Tectyl is the best to use on a Galvanised Steel trailer?
Tectyl for Aluminium (on the can helps prevent white rust on ALum) which dries clear or the Tectyl for Steel that has been mentioned as drying red like rust.
Dignity
09-01-2005, 07:52 AM
Tectyl for steel on the trailer - also buy the one for alum and use it on things like alum seat bases etc - stops all the wite stuff coming through
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