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NQCairns
27-05-2003, 05:32 AM
Project Boat,
Kellercraft 5.5m runabout 1980ish, 18 deg deadrise, 2.23m wide at the shoulder, 1.90m wide at the rear.

From a complete newbie to fibreglass work, so be kind.

Some pics below of the boat as rescued from the grave and purchased for $300 dollars. Soft floor in rear with hole and weak transom. Our idea is to remake the boat the way we want it, a reef/trolling/camping boat, way stronger than anything factory and just to give it a go! Hey it’s all just Lego albeit sticky Lego.


001
002
012

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Part 1 – The Transom.

Here’s some of the first stage steps just to show them and also in the hope that it tips the balance for someone contemplating a project or repair themselves, globs of satisfaction are just starting to come my way but there is still a long way to go.
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NQCairns
27-05-2003, 05:33 AM
:)

NQCairns
27-05-2003, 05:34 AM
:)

NQCairns
27-05-2003, 05:35 AM
014
Here part way through pulling the transom apart the O/B well has been removed and will not be put back on and some of the floor and inner fibreglass skin that housed the old ply has been removed. The rusty looking material is ply that is so rotted it could be ripped apart by hand! To either side of where the O/B well used to be the ply is as good as new which makes for much slower removal with a chisel.

NQCairns
27-05-2003, 05:36 AM
004

A bit further down the track here the floor and all of the old ply and rear floor has been removed, this picture jumps well ahead so just ignore the extra work seen, will get to that soon.

NQCairns
27-05-2003, 05:37 AM
013

This pic shows the poor state the transom outer skin was in, many holes and a couple of splits in the fibreglass where the motor sat because of rotted ply also one big blister (osmosis) and other holes that are out of camera shot. (Also found some snapped off mild steel screws!!!!) The objective here is to mend so that the only holes that will go through the transom this low on the hull will be for the pod and a single bottom bung. When finished the transducer etc will mount on pieces of fibreglass glued to the hull.

NQCairns
27-05-2003, 05:37 AM
003
Here is just the bare outer skin. With divots ground into where there was any faults or holes. The divots here were once open holes but in this pic the inside of the skin has already been strengthened with layers of fibreglass.

NQCairns
27-05-2003, 05:38 AM
006
Here the divots have been patched and sanded back (I luv my new belt sander). No chop strand here Triaxial all the way.

NQCairns
27-05-2003, 05:41 AM
004

This pic shows the stringers which are still good and have been sanded back ready for laying with fibreglass to help with waterproofing . Also the O/B well cut-out has been glassed over and around all the edges of the inner skin I have laid 4 layers of 700g Triaxial matt for reinforcement and the whole inner skin area also received 1 extra layer of Triax and 5 layers of chop strand overlapped to bulk out the centre to equal all the Triax around the edges. When this portion was completed the rear wall was almost double the original thickness. The result was an extremely solid rear wall with none of the floppy wobble of the original bare skin just a very solid structure ready to be built on.

NQCairns
27-05-2003, 05:42 AM
007

Here is the new CD grade ply cut to shape, the top piece is 19mm thick and the piece under that is 15mm. The top piece is shorter in height than the thinner piece in an attempt to save some weight where I can.

NQCairns
27-05-2003, 05:43 AM
008
Here the two pieces of ply are being glued together, I used chop strand as the sandwich and screwed one piece down onto the other to get as much pressure as I could for the best stick. I used 30% more resin here than I thought I would, the waterproof ply seems to soak it right up – go figure?

NQCairns
27-05-2003, 05:44 AM
009
Hip Hip Hooray! The ply is fitted after 50 hours work time, I used 2 layers of chop strand again for the sandwich and all manner of do-dads and whatsits to get a good tight and square compressed fit against the inside of the outer skin. The gap around the outside where the ply almost meets the hull and sides has been filled with resin, chop strand fibres, carbosil and some fibreglass grindings dust all mixed together into a slimy paste.

NQCairns
27-05-2003, 05:45 AM
010

Here you will notice I got the jigsaw out and cut some of the good work I had already done (that’s it on the ground). While trial running the fitting of the ply I could not get the ply and the inside of the transom skin to sit flat against each other because of a slight inwards bow, the result of adding all that extra glass to the inside of the skin (when fibreglass dries it contracts) so out came the jigsaw and problem partially solved. Then I just had to work out how to stick it back on later.

NQCairns
27-05-2003, 05:45 AM
011
Here the jig sawed panel is back where it should be, with the Jigsaw cut about to be ground back and fibre glassed into one solid sheet with the outer skin again.

NQCairns
27-05-2003, 05:47 AM
015

Here is the new edge for the rubber bump strip that will run along the rear, needs to be cut back to shape and size though.

NQCairns
27-05-2003, 05:58 AM
016

Here is the completed article, sorry about the poor pic though, the inner skin I have added 2 layers of triax around the edges then used 2 layers of chop strand to cover the whole kit and caboodle, I also re glassed the stringers but have to come back to them and re - do at some time, I found out that it is very hard (buggered if I could do it) to cap small sharp corners with lay up, next time I will use a resin/chop strand glue for a cap instead of trying to lay the ends up.


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Materials used, more or less

15L resin
7L Acetone
400ml Catalyst (MEKP)
6 cheap Paint brushes
14m Chop Strand
6m Triaxial mat
5 belt sanding disks
3 grinder sanding disks
2 ply sheets 2nd grade
120grams carbosil

That’s it, total cost so far including hull purchase $780.00. In the next 3 months I will be adding the new redesigned floor and will also start designing the cap section that runs along the top of the transom – Hopefully.
Will post then also, cheers,
Nqcairns.

landy1
27-05-2003, 01:39 PM
excellent job mate
i can see the potential in this boat your gonna have a great time.
cheers
Michael

blaze
27-05-2003, 07:07 PM
Hi nqcairns
Mate what can i say, know what ya going through, been helping a mate over the last 12 months, 20 footer, jet removed total floor removed 4 layers of mat and 2 rovin wovin up to gunalls then two layers up ganalls, new frame allowing for under floor fuel and icebow, new floor, new transom to take 2 x 125hp mercs- 2 strokes, then made mould for new cab, fit cab, all painted in white twopack, 3 coats, 4 coats of flow coat applied to inside and project still going estimate cost of finished boat minus gps and sounder is $42000 wish it was mine without the bills
cheers
blaze

NQCairns
29-05-2003, 04:18 AM
Hey Blaze, sounds like your project is huge compared to mine, I only plan to work or modify around the basic design. Have you got a pic of the boat I would love to see the new DIY cabin just that in it's self is a big job, also not shy about copying somebodys good ideas ::). Sounds as if it is almost done hope you get many hours of satisfaction out of the craft. NQ

blaze
29-05-2003, 08:26 AM
Hi nqcairns
I think he would have been better to buy a new boat, but he said more satifaction this way and the only thing left that was old was the outer shell, I will get some digi photos and post, If I can find the time to (when i am not fishin) do mine I am going to put a new transom in to as i want to put a 90hp on the back (70hp now, no p/t/t reckon I am getting to old to lift the bloody thing) I have a tri like brents and only paid $350 for it and new flowcoat inside and other bits and pieces (to keen to get in the water) still needs 2 pack and transom, although thats only for upgrade)
cheers
blaze

blaze
29-05-2003, 08:42 AM
Hi
1 of 4 pics of my 16" pride tri

blaze
29-05-2003, 08:45 AM
2 of 4

blaze
29-05-2003, 08:47 AM
3 of 4

blaze
29-05-2003, 08:49 AM
4 of 4

NQCairns
31-05-2003, 05:20 AM
Hi Blaze, you got a bargan with that boat, they remind me of the Glastrons they were heavey but great. How did you find the flowcoat, use much? I am yet to touch the stuff. The floor looked like new in that pic, I see you have another Carribean looking boat in the background. Look forward to any other pics you can post. How long until the upgrade? Cheers

blaze
31-05-2003, 01:16 PM
Hi nqcairns
Not sure on the upgrade, still just looking and researching. Flowcoat sold by the kilo, from memory I think i used 10kgs, mixed with resin to thin it down a bit (use the same hardner as when glassing but the ratio is different). Some people use a roller to apply it, I like to use a brush. post more pics later
cheers
blaze

blaze
08-06-2003, 10:14 AM
Hi NQcairns
This is a picture with some more inserted of the 20 footer I was talking about.
cheers
blaze

NQCairns
09-06-2003, 11:16 AM
Big project looks like a stejcraft? I had not thought of building the cabin first fitted or anthing for that matter, then glassing, makes the whole job much more achievable in the backyard? Mmmmmm... food for thought! What was the cabin constructed with and how thick? I guess there will be some windows still to be fitted. Keep the photo's coming great stuff. cheers Scott.

blaze
09-06-2003, 04:59 PM
Hi Scott
A mould was made up from pine timber for bracing and a high gloss ply (don't no what the name is ) the corners where then rounded out with body filler, then the release agent, gelcoate and 5 layers of glass. the cab was then fitted to hull and glassed in place, it was then enclosed and braced where nessary, then it was all glassed over at any seams and joins and bracing inside. All the inside & the cab entrance is now ready for the final coates of flowcoat. the cab will then have the final top coat applied and then have two tinted windows fitted
then o/boards and electronics and wiring
I will post more pics later but its a long project
cheers
blaze
ps- be a better boat than my 16 footer for fishin when finished

Rhino
09-06-2003, 07:02 PM
Blaze,

Do you find you have many brush marks in the flow coat after application. If so does this require a lot of sanding to attain the glassy finish? How thick do you apply the flow coat?

Regards Ryan...

blaze
10-06-2003, 06:09 AM
Hi Ryan
When I applied flowcoat to my 16 footer I was told that a very short haired roller was the go, tried it and then found the brush put a thicker coat on, I also thined mine down with resin and was happy with the finish for inside the boat. I did some chips on the hull and apllied about 4 thick coats and then sanded back to the original level. On my mates 20 footer all the flowcoat was rolled on and that seem to work ok there because i think it was all new glass, on the hull of that one, chips and dings were filled with body filler all boat primed and then 2 pack. Hope thats not to confusing
cheers
blaze

Rhino
10-06-2003, 02:22 PM
Blaze,

Thanks for the reply. I am considering building a seat for my 5m centre consol with a livewell and esky inside. I was going to build it with 12mm CD grade ply then seal it by either painting the whole thing with resin or laying 1 or 2 thin layers of glass over it. Then I planned to finish the project by painting it inside and out with flow coat. Once sanded I figured the whole thing would come up quite smooth and glassy. I was told though that it would be difficult to get all the brush marks out. I have been advised to consider building a female mould and laying the whole thing with glass gelcoat etc.

What do you think?

Regards Ryan...

blaze
10-06-2003, 07:25 PM
Hi Ryan
I would build it out of structural ply (fibaglass adheres better to this i am told) 2 or 3 layers of glass then apply at least 2 coats of flowcoat, sand of to a flat surface and any marks ya have left, fill with a layer of body putty and resand and paint, there is probable more work in building a good mould then the completed job the way descibed
best a luck
cheers
blaze

NQCairns
12-06-2003, 05:15 PM
Thanks Blaze, you guys really did go all the way, guess the payback is in the weight saving with it being all moulded up. Dont forget to post when the time comes. Nq

NQCairns
31-08-2004, 03:41 AM
Just a minor update to yesterday, the last 2 months have seen me get a bit more interested in the project so I thought I would post a portion of the journey to where I am now ;D


This is the trailer I built to suit the hull, it is rated to 1500kg hope Queensland transport agrees with me on that :P.

NQCairns
31-08-2004, 03:55 AM
This is the fully sanded hull all square edges have been rounded or filled with fibreglass glue and sanded to a radius to make the laying up easier. The capping has been cut of and is under the house getting a full work over.

NQCairns
31-08-2004, 03:59 AM
The new anchor well has been fabricated and glued in place. The glue at the edges where it meets the hull was about to get the radiusing treatment with the grinder in preparation for glassing and layup.

NQCairns
31-08-2004, 04:07 AM
Here is the long shot ;D

NQCairns
31-08-2004, 04:15 AM
In this pic I have laid up around the anchor well with alternating layers of chop strand and triaxial mat, two of each. The inside where the anchor and rope will sit has been completly laid up with biaxial and chop strand.

Below the well the hull has been reinforced with overlapping layers of triaxial mat and chopstrand.

NQCairns
31-08-2004, 04:21 AM
I decided to add another 15mm layer to my new transom just for the hell of it, it is now near 50 mm thick but I should now with bracing be able to cut a transom door in at a later date without pulling the floor to bits and other hastles. I will see what happens.

NQCairns
31-08-2004, 04:27 AM
This pic shows the capping back on, I have replaced all the stuffed wood under the deck and behind the dash and ran on the entire underside a layup of chop and triax + added glass reinforcement where I thought it nessesary, it did add around 15 kg to the topside mass :(. The centre stringer has been finally reglassed to the hull along most of it's length with - wait for it.... chop strand then triaxial mat [smiley=2thumbsup.gif], amazing the solid change in the hull just this small amount of glass made.

NQCairns
01-09-2004, 11:12 AM
Last pic - here all the stringers have been done and this the turning point where I can let the rain fall where it may during the wet season and not have to worry about any stringer wood getting soaking wet and causing more work later when I get back into it proper. [smiley=2thumbsup.gif]

Hagar
01-09-2004, 07:01 PM
Hey NQ
You have my sympathy . Your pics show you are doing the full blown rebuild from the ground floor up on your hull . Huge job like I did on my haines but well worth it . Also see the longitudinal stringers stop short of the transom at the back . I swept mine up in a crescent to meet the transom and tie the two structures together to help brace the outboard . Was the hull like this as original ? Your glass matt layup will be m....uuuch stronger than original. Ref the posts about flowcoat and moulds - for mine a glassed over ply structure flowcoated and then contrast flecked looks fine and lasts a long time .

Chris

NQCairns
02-09-2004, 05:35 AM
G'Day Hagar, thnks for the remarks, You also have my sympathy - actually I have my sympthy as well :-X.

Yep the stringers pulled up short of the transom from new, your idea about swept up stringers is a good idea and I probably will run the extra wood (on top of stringers) to support the raised floor all the way back and tie into the transom.
I am quite amazed that someone has done a real complete rebuild, you are the first i have come across, all the other ones I know about are part rebuilds and a prettyup (actually Blazes mate did one?).
Did your extra glass work add much weight to the finished product and did it change the handling I am starting to worry over how much glass I am adding to the build, the boat was lean and mean from the factory. Not sure I follow you about the flowcoat and mould remark, what did you mean.
Cheers hagar and look forward to any other ideas you have. nq

melbdan
03-09-2004, 04:53 PM
Hi nq i am doing a full rebuild on a haines V17L at the moment how much resin and matting have u used so far i have added quite a bit of weight to my boat this is what i have used 17 pales at 22kgs (374kgs) 3 rolls of 600 gram chop strand mat(36 kgs each) and 30 kgs of woven roven.I have used all this because i have done a full rebuild stringers,transom,pockets,live bait tank,battery boxs and a few other things but it all adds up keep up the good work its a huge job but well worth it in the end not that im there yet good luck.

Hagar
04-09-2004, 05:50 AM
NQ
I am unsure about the weights or quantities of resin and glass I used as I did not keep track - enough for the job is the only answer . Looking at your pics it would fair to say your hull will much stronger than factory - but it's a nice feeling to have when the weather turns to s . . t and you are far from home. It stands to reason that if you add extra weight of glasswork basically evenly over the hull the handling characteristics should not alter much . If the fuel tank was underfloor I have found it's positioning can alter the boat afterwards .

I notice your transom ply does not go right to the bottom of the hull at the centre on the inside , presumably the bung/s go here ? I guess the stringers stop short of the transom to allow drainage past them from the outer chambers if ever required . The only drawback with transom supports tied to these I have found is interference with stowing stuff under the motor well sometimes so consider that as well.

The reference to the glassed over ply and then flecked was only my preference for fabricating things that some of the guys were talking of making. Making moulds is a big job unless you have a quality boat and want to keep the gelcoat finish on all the inclusions .

Have a couple of little ideas from my boat to share with you . Will take a coupla pics and post . I sure don't miss that itchy glass dust. >:( >:(

Chris

NQCairns
04-09-2004, 06:52 AM
G'Day Melban have you done this before! and didn't you PM me about a V17 in my area for sale!! and you are how far along!!!! ::) Crikey!!!!
I have only used 4 pales so far, I think it may be a bit decieving how much actually gets thrown/ground away. Have you floated it yet?
I have used 15 m+ of triax a few m of biax and about 30m of 450 or 600 chop, the guys at FGI are getting to know my face, sure sign of spending too much money somewhere :-[
Transom's now are a fairly easy and cheap job in contrast. Any pics yet?, myself and others I am sure would like to see your v17 brought back from the grave. Cheers nq

Hi again Hagar, any ideas most welcome ;D , I am thinking about making a layup table downstairs to make some nice chop strand panels that I can then fabricate with more glass into other stuff :) Like live tank etc. The transom will be choc a block with 2 part foam if I get my way, apart from the Live tank and batterys, grand storage ideas went south when I found out how much foam I needed to float her and how much room i had to fit the foam. Just quietly I think I will also build myself a the pod and floatation/hull extensions as well. I want to see any pics you have, feel free to email any extras if it is easier for you. Cheers nq

melbdan
04-09-2004, 05:04 PM
NQ i did talk to u about a V17 up your way a few months back,i have done a little bit of glass work before but never a full rebuild i have been working on it for the last four months and its been a full time project. I am re gelcoating the whole boat at the moment i did the under side when i had the top deck off and the hull flipped up side down its a huge job but well worth it in the end the finish is like it came out of the mould i have not had it in the water yet but i will have my outboard on it in the next few weeks if u have any questions feel free to ask Dan.

NQCairns
05-09-2004, 03:58 AM
Interesting to hear you re-gelcoated it, big feather in your cap for you. Most people say never again but the results are worth it compared to paint. Might PM some Qs if that is ok but later.
Do you have some 'before' pics to go with your 'after' ones?. I am about to head out and do some more preparing myself and shatter this nice quiet saturday morning for my neighbours ;D 8).
You must be getting excited with only a short while to go :o - lucky bugger.

Hagar
05-09-2004, 01:52 PM
NQ
Pics as promised . On all my boats I accurately drill the motor mount holes and then oversize them to take thick walled 1/2 inch inside dia. stainless steel tube sleeves . These are bonded into the transom and sealed at the ends with fuel tank sealant - no more worries about water getting into the transom thru the most common place - badly sealed motor bolts . Only the inside plate is sealed on the bolt to stop water leaking along the bolt into the boat.

Hate bolt washers crushing the transom so the plate you see is 1/2 inch thick alloy plate wet sealant fitted to the transom top to spread the load . A decent plate of the same is on the inside of the transom bolts.

Hagar
05-09-2004, 01:57 PM
These are the braces that are part of the stringers where they meet the transom . Like I said they can restrict stowage under the motor well but the 17L is so low that not much can fit anyway . Not sure how this is different to original . Lost track in the rebuild.

Hagar
05-09-2004, 02:02 PM
Last one . Standard on most fit-ups these days . Good thick piece of HDP under the motor to protect your transom you have put so much work into . Try to get a good thick piece ( wider than mine ) cause it is good for mounting things like live bait pumps without drilling screw holes into the transom .

melbdan
05-09-2004, 04:02 PM
Hi NQ i do have lots of pics and ill post some up soon any questions u have just ask ill be happy to help where i can and yes i cant wait to get it wet ;D.

melbdan
05-09-2004, 04:10 PM
Hager did u have your haines in the water before the rebuild and did u find a difference in handling with the rebuild if u added more weight,where do u have your fuel tank positioned in the boat and how big is it and also how did u flicker the paint over your floor thanks in advance.

Hagar
06-09-2004, 09:14 AM
Melbdan
Yes I had it on water briefly before rebuild - lucky it didn't fall apart the structure was so waterlogged . The handling did not change that I could tell as any extra weight was evenly distribited . I have these tips though .

The boat is better with an outboard foil if you have a bigger engine . Mine is 115 yamaha and the boat does not have enough nose down trim without it .

The centre floor well is very narrow . A fuel tank with enough capacity will take up most of it .

About the floor flecking . You can pay to have a glasser spray them on or do like me and thin down some flowcoat you have tinted yourself until just thin enough to ' flick ' with a brush with shortened bristles . Try a test board first .

Fuel tank is constant depth front to rear ( came with the boat ) but the well is deper at the front so it sits on tapered mount rails underneath so the fuel will not pool at the front and starve the engine at low quantity .

Hagar
06-09-2004, 09:16 AM
The back end . Holds about 100 lites.

Hagar
06-09-2004, 09:21 AM
Consider this one . Foredeck on the 17 L is very low to get under and go up thru the hatch for the anchor so I modified the middle floor section to run all the way to the keel to give more head height forward . I have no need for bunk room.

melbdan
06-09-2004, 09:53 AM
Hager thanks for the tips and pics u have done a nice job ill post some pics of mine soon Dan.

NQCairns
06-09-2004, 01:03 PM
Quality work Haggar it looks like it came from the factory, I like the floor afront ship and how you crafted the angles to maintain extra strength when you could have just butted everthing up. I will be looking into a crush plate for sure. The knees are large up the transom, must give you piece of mind when punching home.

Does the aluminium z angle also hold the tank down, are you worrried about those screws into the deck and water? and have you had any trouble with the tank space filling with water from deck overflow? the tank area is a real problem for me, I am trying to follow USCG guidelines a close as I can, yet keep it easily fabricated and glassed
Any wrist action etc trick to the fleck, easy to stuff up?

Melban look forward to those pics. :)

Hagar
07-09-2004, 09:42 PM
NQ
Yes the angle holds the tank down I guess but it is really too heavy to move up . The simple treated pine frame stops it moving aft .

Don't think you can get away from some screws into the floor for angles ,seats etc . All the screws are wet sealed as they go in .

Yes , you do get water in the underfloor tank cavity from rain or other water that gets sloshed over the floor . Rather than try to seal it I have two bungs at the back of it that let the water run into the lower hull and out the back bungs when the boat is washed . I leave the floor panel off then until it dries out . Have considered a small bilge pump at the back of the underfloor cavity in case I get real quantities of water in there in a downpour on the water .

The flecking . The real reason I did it myself was cause I could not tow it to a glasser . Wrist action like Pro Hart flicking paint onto a canvas . 1/2 or 1 inch cheap brush and shorten the bristles until it works for you . The flowcoat must be thin and lots of catalyst . You could ruin your whole project if you f . . k it up so PLEASE do a couple of test boards and make sure it hardens and looks OK first. BTW waxed flowcoat is very slippery underfoot . I mixed snow white silica sand ( the one brickies use for the really white mortar ) with the floor flowcoat to get it non slip . Took some of the shine off it but you need to do something if you do not intend to use carpet inside . Are you bored yet - there's heaps more .

Chris

NQCairns
08-09-2004, 12:42 AM
Haggar would you look at the time :P Got a big question for ya When does a near new born decide it is just not polite to get dad out of bed 5 times a night - every night?? Not really off topic either - because I am stuffed to find the will to do any more than just think and chat about the boat lately :D, besides it's get out of bed training for all those 3am starts out to the reef when the boat is finished ;D.
Anyway enough on that ::).

Bored.... Nah! I am up for all that you got ;D

Thanks for the good info on Flecking thats the kind of advice that makes the job right for new hands [smiley=2thumbsup.gif].
Good idea on the tank bed being at an angle, makes sense, first time I heard that one, i will have to incorporate it into my plans also.
I am a bit hesitant draining anything tank related toward where an electrical pump can activate, murphys law and all that. I may end up fastening and weather sealing the hatch down and use a round access port for the filler, or rebate a channel with the router that spills deck water into a hole in the floor down to the lower hull behind the tank box. The floor panel will sit over the entire rebate/hole. Just ideas atm.
Thanks and cheers. nq

Hagar
08-09-2004, 06:56 PM
NQ
Jeezus mate . I have an excuse for being out of bed at this time of nite cause I am on nite shift . Doesn't your elbow work to nudge the wife when the baby cries at night? . Please don't let her see this this . I am afraid of letter bombs and pissed off mothers .Thinking about it will not get the job done- put a lock on the grog fridge and re-focus man . [smiley=thumbsup.gif] [smiley=thumbsup.gif]

NQCairns
09-09-2004, 01:46 PM
He He...I am scared of her ;D Mate my ladies elbow is way pointier than mine and fits painfully and repeatedly right between my 3rd and 4th rib she wins those battles but only in the dark, thats why I got little projects coming out my proverbial :-/.
Actually I got elderly neighours left and right so try and keep the noise down or spread it out some over time - well thats my excuse and I will stick with it at least while the beer fridge is open ;D ;D ;D
PS if she sees mine she will see yours :o your pretty safe. cheers

blaze
09-09-2004, 03:25 PM
hi nqcains
my kids are all grown up now (hope so any way) you have got a lot of sleepless nights coming up (LMAO) it will all be the same untill about 25 years after the last one is born
lots of projects and fishing will help
cheers
blaze

NQCairns
10-09-2004, 05:37 AM
25 years Blaze!!!! nobody told me that when I signed up :o, aw well I wouldnt have it any other way now [smiley=2thumbsup.gif] cheers nq.

blaze
10-09-2004, 07:24 AM
hi nq
money coundnt buy the joys you will have (bring on the grandkids) they tell me the good think about grandkids is ya spoil the crap outa them and send them home
cheers
blaze

Big_Kev
10-09-2004, 03:49 PM
Hagar can you please posta pic of you boat from the out side.
And NQ I have three kids and can say that you will have to get use to the sleepless nights and the worry and all the rest it is about being DAD.
Cheers Kev :)

NQCairns
11-09-2004, 01:38 PM
Yeah Kev should'a done it years ago, those wind cries just rip a person apart, little people used be just annoying when they were other peoples whipper-snappers ;D cheers.

Hagar
13-09-2004, 04:46 PM
Kev
Here you go mate . No ........ that was not me that that ran over your lures and cut them off ..... I never fish north of the Seaway . Melbdan - you should try to keep your finished project to this general shape . Just joking - am sure it will be top class .
Chris

NQCairns
14-09-2004, 04:15 AM
Thats one good looking V17 you got there, a credit to your determination? ;D
Haggar your a cheeky bugger with that last comment :D, you possibly should have directed it at me I am having a bugger of a time keeping the same deadrise as standard as the hull has relaxed with the extra weight of glass and no bulkheads yet, will get there. cheers nq

Big_Kev
14-09-2004, 02:55 PM
That canopy is well done, Who made it?
Good looking rig as well.
Cheers Kev.

Hagar
15-09-2004, 05:36 PM
Kev
not sure where you are based . Made by Currumbin Trimmers in Currumbin Ck. Rd. They do heaps of that type of gear .

Chris

Hagar
15-09-2004, 05:36 PM
Kev
not sure where you are based . Made by Currumbin Trimmers in Currumbin Ck. Rd. They do heaps of that type of gear .

Chris

melbdan
16-09-2004, 05:59 PM
Hagar u sure thats a V17L my boat looks nothing like that (jokeing mate) nice boat u have there did u have to paint it or was it like that the only thing i have changed to the out side is i have blocked the front windows and i have raised the rear engine well 4 inchs with the sides to give me more room inside and because i have a 25 inch leg i also dident like the idea of allways haveing water in my engine well.Anouther thing i did was shorten my windscreen from the sides about 180mm and changed the side colour from yellow to blue come to think about it ive changed a bit more than what i thought to late now ;).

yockman
22-09-2004, 06:07 PM
That is a very sharp looking V17 there Hagar, still the best looking boat of all time, IMHO. Well done.
Yockman

Hagar
23-09-2004, 04:34 AM
Melbdan
You are right . All shorter shaft engines slop water into the motor well thats why I sleeved the mount bolt holes so no water can get into the transon timber . Love the higher transom mod . My engine was only a late model so was not an option for me to get a long shaft . I did not have to paint the deck just a good cut and buff . Am thinking of infilling the windscreen and raising it .

Yockman . Thanks for that . Replied to your motor post.

Chris

NQCairns
15-11-2004, 04:13 PM
Just an update for prosperity, #for Ausfish'e diehard boat refitters and for other ideas if anyone has a better layout. Everything except the stringers/height are changeable [smiley=2thumbsup.gif]

I seem to be crawling along but I got about a full days work done in the last month, here is where I am at today with a previous pic of the stringer height extensions in progress. All the cross pieces of ply are only roughly cut and are just sitting there atm. The stringer height extensions and the two new stringers (outermost ones)are 20mm thick Hoop Pine.

Number (in second pic):
1.are the kill tanks. about 1.6 long
2. are fuel approx 120l forward and 60l aft.

All other spaces will be 2 part foam, including all the forward underfloor area. The bilge in the aft facing photo will not be see foam, but i am sure you worked that out yourself :D

From the forward bulkhead to the transom at floor height is just under 3m.
The forward floor is standard height and jumps up about 80mm just behind where I will stand to steer.

If anyone has a better layout let me know.
Cheers nq

NQCairns
15-11-2004, 04:16 PM
w

NQCairns
15-11-2004, 04:20 PM
a

cooky
15-11-2004, 05:52 PM
NQcairns. amazed you've got as far as you have. I've got the young ones too and I find it hard enough getting time to wash the boat.
I found time to go over Maggie Island today though - great stuff.

Mate - it'll will be getting bloody hot working on that boat :o
you'll be losing some weight. Cairns is bloody hot. Townsville is always lovely and cool :-X

NQCairns
16-11-2004, 06:18 AM
Thanks cooky 6 months ago while whingeing to the wife looking for some sympathy over how long it is taking me, how hot, itchy, missed fishing opportunities etc etc she gave me the go-ahead (no prompting) to buy an up to $15000 reef boat until I complete this one. Knowing that I only want a reef boat I did myself she took all the wind out of my sails, smart lady, now I get even less time to work on it :(

HOT!!!! Cooky I cannot use the grinder in the middle of the day, I sweat that much I once tripped the safety switch. Got only a small jolt before it saved my life #:o :o;D.

Must be all the cool dudes down there keeping the temp relaxed 8)
nq
It's posts with sentences like your Maggie Is reference that keeps my little project (dream)ticking over. [smiley=wut.gif] ;D ;D

stressrelief
21-11-2004, 07:56 AM
hehehehehe

are u having fun there

mmmmmm im doingg lots of fishing here

NQCairns
21-11-2004, 09:38 AM
MMMmmmmm........ thats not even close to funny, want a job in your spare time stressrelief ? ;D ;D

nisrol
24-12-2004, 11:38 AM
nqcairns
not sure if this is the post you were talking about have read thru all of it so for the bow point to the main start of the hull do you sugest i use 400 grade w&d to sand it back and then place some strip matting and brush the resin in place with a brush to keep it there as this is where the first sheet of glass is lifting ( hmmmmm to much beaching i think ) oh well got to get out of the boat somehow , the small pit holes i have near the water line i figuire can be filled with some gelcoat as for the spider web stress cracks if i had some pics could show you , the worst of these is on the helm side between the water line and the top of the bow deck as for the ones around the bow rail i think maybe a bit of resin and then gelcoat over the top of it to give the white finish as the rest of the boat is white anyhow will check the post's tomorrow to se for responce

cheers andy

seabug
24-12-2004, 06:58 PM
To all you boaties reworking your damaged fibreglass boats.
Congratulations,well done.

Some time back I had a Na..ig..ss cuddy cab that I left stored with the drain plug in place.All the wood under the floor was totally rotten. I think it must have had a fine crack in the bottom.
I sold the hull for $200 ,also sold motor +Trailer.
Now every calm day I get withdrawall symtoms
I have tried going on Charter boat and it was a great day and a fantastic Skipper .
But nothing beats having your own boat.
Good fishing to you all
Cheers
seabug

NQCairns
25-12-2004, 05:51 AM
Andy, the cracks from waterline near helm to topside are a worry, sounds like the boat is trying to bend up at either end and flexing the sides out, lack of longditudinal structure in the hull? I would tow it to a pro for his opinion it may be nothing but it may not also, sounds like both these cracks may be related.
The keel is easy,
Hit the keel problem with a grinder until all the delaminated glass is gone then grind all around your hole so that you have a large shampher(sp?) at least 5 times the depth of the origial hull glass, some do 12 times. The weakest part of the repair will be the new glass to old glass bond so the more surface area you bond the better.
Use acetone to clean it up then rough it up with some sandpaper and use alternating layers of 450g chop strand and a mat of some sort, I like triaxial 750g or the 45 degree 450gm biaxial but thats just me, the first piece will fit only the most internal portion of the hole then get overlapped with each new twin (chop and mat) until finally the last twin layers reach outside of the repair then sand it all back flat, then paint on a couple of coats of resin to seal any stray fibres that may wick water then paint with flowcoat. You can go higher to build a buffer against later scrubbing if you like.

To glass the bow rail anchor points you need to do it from the underside as you will be adding a mound of extra glass as the reinforcemant if done from above it might look strange, sanding the reinforcement back flat takes you back to the original problem again.

Buy all your supplys from a boat builder or from where he gets his, like fiberglass international (FGI) among others it will be around 5 times cheaper to do it this way. and you might have enough to do both the keel and underside of the deck?
Consider 4 liters of basic laminating resin $40 and 2 M of 450 gr chop strand $10 and 2m of 45 degree 450gm biaxial $12, a couple of L of acetone $10, some cheap paint brushes for the glass work $5, catalist $15 and a couple of L of flowcoat $20.

My advice is based on my experiences I know what works for me but I am not a pro just a backyarder, there may be far better advice around, what is the boat?. Good luck with it.



Thanks Seabug, dont be too hard on yourself, if that boat was manufactured properly it would have outlasted you, bungs in or not.

nq

seabug
25-12-2004, 12:03 PM
Right-on NQcairns
the timber in the hull was only covered with a very thin depth of glass cloth and was not very well sealed

I really think that any members who notice any movement in the floor or any dead sounding areas of the transom in the same make boat get it checked out.

The timber in the bearers? joins onto the transom.
Once the water gets into these it soon starts to rot the transom.
It would only have to come down hard off a wave and it would be crunch time.
Cheers
seabug

HAVE A SAFE CHRISTMAS EVERYONE

nisrol
26-12-2004, 03:52 PM
thanks nqcairns does anyone know of a fibreglass pro around the strathpine area have heard about one in hemmant would have to check the refadex for that .

hoping this was the post you were talking about

cheers andy

nisrol
29-12-2004, 02:16 PM
nqcairns
thank you for the information have found that it is only the gelcoat that has lifted so i just need to sand it back and give it a new coat .
do you now if i can fill the pit holes this way to ?

NQCairns
30-12-2004, 06:28 AM
That's good news Nisrol, what size are the pinholes?, sometimes when spraying gelcoat there are small pitholes created, like less than 2mm, some tiny. Or are these larger and in the fibreglass and the gell has conformed to them when applied?
Someone else here may know.

I found a pithole in the hull of my glass boat that was caused by a lump of dust sanded during manufacture then chopper gun sprayed over (lazy workers) It was about 10mm in size and extended 2/3 of the way through the hull laminate (inside looking out).
Need more info on yours to guess any further. cheers nq

nisrol
30-12-2004, 08:15 AM
nqcairns
thanks for the responce :D some of the pin holes are only about 4mm in length and 2mm in hight. Can the small ones be filled with a paint brush and as for the spraying can this be done with a normal spray gun and how do i need to set up the gun if so ?.
Does the gelcoat need to be mixed with something to thin it down ?, I know that i will have to sand the gelcoat that is still there to the point were it is no longer lifting the area would be about 3-4inches in size .
And can i use the gelcoat to give the point of the bow a bit more thickness to it so that when i beach will not start wearing away the glass or the centreboard?. :D ;)

NQCairns
30-12-2004, 08:54 AM
I really have no idea about the pinholes, you could try a paintbrush but at the end of the day sanding is usually the only way to attack gelcoat probs, any extra gellcoat you try to add over a problem will conform to the problem once set, if you can get the gelcoat thin enough that it sits in the hole you might get lucky? You need a putty gun, a normal paint gun has troubles, some people have used airless guns, regardless of what you use, paintbrush, roller or gun you will need to sand it back by hand there is no wat to get a straight up paint like finish with this stuff. For most jobs a paint brush works, buld layer upon layer, you need to buy flowcoat which is the same chemicle as gelcoat except it is thinner and has wax included in the resin. Without the wax to seal away air it will not go hard, if you use gelcoat you slap it on then apply a layer of wax over the entire job and this sets it.
Just a note, flowcoat, gelcoat and polyester resin (iso resin) and your boat hull are all identical products with only a few minor changes ie like thickening, wax, pigment, UV protectant, fiberglass etc
Use flowcaot if you want to treat it like paint, be sure to wipe all the wax off the cured surface and sand to roughen up the surface before the next coat to get a good bond. If the surface is still tacky, just paint on another layer, it's a lot like paint to use.
Gelcoat stays soft/tacky for ages so another build coat can be applied anytime (within reason, go have lunch ;D) although the final coat must either incorporate a wax in it or have the wax sprayed on as a final layer, this will in turn set all the layers.
As long as the hull laminate has not been breached ie fibers or delamination it can be sealed with resin painted on then yes you can build up a thickness to help with beaching.
Go back a fair few pages to Blazes posts where he used flowcoat inside his boat, there is a reason why its called flowcoat.

On my members page there is an email address send me an email and I will chase up a couple of articles on these jobs, not really "how to do it stuff" but they are helpfull to get a feel for it before actually starting the job.
Some people use acetone to thin, I dont, small job probably wouldnt matter? can leave pinholes etc upon flashing. Pros use styrene from the fibreglass shop. Flowcoat is pretty thin anyway (still a bit thick for spraying possibly) and it sounds as if spraying may not be needed in your case. cheers nq

markpeta
06-07-2005, 03:04 PM
bump

NQCairns
07-07-2005, 05:34 PM
Seeing as this post got pulled up I thought I would add where I finished up last weekend for those that follow this stuff.

The floor is 17mm CD grade ply and glued down (zero screws will ever see this floor) all joins were scarfed together, the cutouts are rough undersize so that after I layup the surface and accurately cut each holes perimeter the fiberglass will be full thickness right to the edge.
The fuel tank holes will be cut close to the each stringer down each side and the top and bottom transverse bulkheads in each will be the other lines. The edge will then have a routed rebate approx 12 to 14mm deep carved into it (reason for 17mm ply) to accept a fully glassed piece of 10mm 5ply that will comprise the hatch. The hatches will have no fittings and will be levered up with a purpose made tool for filling/inspection.
Anyway this photo is where I am at and a some of above is where I am going, ATM I have a 2.9m by 1.9m bed of completely clear deck space from where the back of the drivers seat will be and at it's widest, it seems to me to be a large area for this size monohull and what I was aiming for but couldn't imagine until now, it's just great!! Heaps of room for the beanbags to suit the 3rd and 4th decky's [smiley=2thumbsup.gif] Getting somewhere and fairly chuffed about it[smiley=laola.gif] cheers nq.

blaze
07-07-2005, 06:05 PM
looking good nq, how far/long from the finish line do ya reckon
cheers
blaze

NQCairns
07-07-2005, 06:42 PM
Thanks Blaze, I have a shocking track record at predicting my rebuild schedule, I hope that in near 3 months at the outside it will be registered and floating but not very pretty, I need some payback first 'like yesterday' !!!!! so the rough unmatched flowcoat patches etc can get stuffed for 6 months or so. cheers nq

blaze
07-07-2005, 07:25 PM
ever thought of doing one from scratch, looking into a 12 foot cat atm, built of of that light wieght board/form (u know what I mean), covered with 2 layers of that fine woven matt(cant remember the name of that either) inside and 2 outside with a lay of resin sprayed over the finish boat and then painted with 2 pack. The designer reckons 60kg will be the max weight and max hp will be 20hp and cabable of 6knts with a 4hp outboard. The first one (for himself) should be off the jig in a fornight and then I can borrow the jig if I want. He thinks about $550 for materials
cheers
blaze

NQCairns
07-07-2005, 07:37 PM
Gee, if you do it and at 60kg I hope you dont have a 20hp engine hanging around cause the water is cold down there I am told :o ;D. Is it more of mini racing tunnel hull design? or a cat? For the price it would probably be fun to try. nq

blaze
07-07-2005, 07:45 PM
thats what I thought, if I get time tommorow I will get a pic
cheers
blaze

blaze
07-07-2005, 07:46 PM
he did say the gelcoat/flowcoat would add 40kg and thats why he is not using it

gavsgonefishing
08-07-2005, 05:36 PM
Once that floor is in its the down hill slide to getting the thing finished I reckon. Looking good and very robust. I dont think you will have to worry about water rotting anythng out for yours, or for that matter your greatgrand kids lives.

Cant wait to hear how you go with spraying the gelcoat. Its a ton of fun, trust me.

NQCairns
08-07-2005, 06:31 PM
Hi Blaze, don't really know what you mean and don't want to go reading back atm. If I mentioned it it could have to do with a fiberglass salesman who told me a typical 5m boat needs that much (or a bit more) gelcoat/flowcoat to cover it in total,I might have mentioned it here. Buggered if I know but it does sound like a lot and at 20kg/$250 that hurts!! From memory the 4L tin of flowcoat I have down stairs says it will cover 2m.

Gav happy to be on the downhill slide. Hope you are right on the rot I just want to use it and know it will be there without drama probably till my dying days, I don't think I will need anything bigger or different ever again. Grandkids cant have it they will not appreciate it and will firesale to buy some floppy shiny new boat.
When the time comes I will fill the tanks jump in and point it due east until I run out of fuel then see if the flotation really does work- Just joking.

You must be very close too. I need to pick you brains over how you think it is best to go about spraying this gelcoat/flowcat I only have a 2.5hp/40L compressor and am not sure it it will suffice? or any advice on how I could get it with specific spray gear to do the job anyway.
Does sound like you are having a throughly sticky time! ;D

Fishin_Dan
09-07-2005, 09:18 AM
NQ - Good looking job there mate!

I noticed in one of your replies to this you said you had a bunch of documents on what you did/how you did it/etc... Would it be possible to get you to email them to me? My addy is daniel@redmap.net

Has anyone thought about getting a seperate "Boat Restoration/Rebuild" area put on here? It would be easier to go through on area looking for all this info, rather than going through all the "extra" stuff in this area.... (Just a thought anyway)

gavsgonefishing
09-07-2005, 10:43 AM
Mine is a 2.7 hp, and it looks bigger than 40 ltr. Yours should handle spraying 4 bar (60psi) at the compressor. The gun has to be a 3.2-3.5mm tip and the gravity feed is the best. From memory I think the spray putty gun you use on a car is about 2.2mm.

Remember you are only spraying 500ml at a time, then you go do brew, refill, thenspray again. I doubt you will run out of puff . When you are getting close, I'll give you the mixtures of the way and styrene so you can compare notes. I noticed on different days, diferent humidity, the crap behaved differently.

Make sure you do what I didn't do, rub the glass back finally ro 240-320 before you spray. It will save you a lot of time and tears

when rolling the flowcoat you should get anywhere from 1-2 ltrs per meter (no styrene).

I am still rubbing the beast back, I have to respray the cabin area because it looks like crap.

Got more toys for it now, I have to start putting them on the boat as I am running out of spots to hide them!!

NQCairns
09-07-2005, 07:07 PM
Thanks Dan, give me a couple of days and I will chase and package a few up and send them on.
I have brought the idea for a glass/modification forum up a couple of times but it gets knocked back ???, Forrest for the trees! ::)

Gav great info! thanks I will start organising for it.

Ages ago I was the helper for a mate when he completly resprayed his, from memory it really was a 2 person job would you agree? I dont have one of those guns will need to invest, I am looking for a textured finish sort of hilly without any valleys if that makes sense, bit like a putty gun result but more gross, any advice?
Good luck with the the rubbing back it will be worth it I.

A couple of weeks ago I got mildly chewed out when a package #arrived from the US with some SS hardware in it, she is a good girl almost always lets me purchase in the end it's just easier getting permission when I do ask if I slip every second or third past ;) ;D
She is a keen fisher also so I cannot even hide a new rod/reel, now thats a bugger!!
Looking forward to your pics when you post some. cheers nq

Mad-One
10-07-2005, 04:05 AM
You're doing one awesome job there NQ. You will certianly enjoy ever minute out on the water when finished.A big pat on the back to you
Cheers Phil

gavsgonefishing
10-07-2005, 07:09 AM
The finish you get from the gun is an orange peel. it is glossy and relatively smooth, so it sounds like the finish you want. I will try to take some close up pics before the rubbing back. dont hold your breathe!!

Two person is the way to go. But as usual I did it by my self. just have to be prepared thats all. I worked out how much it was to spray a side (5 x 500ml) made 5 brews up with the hardener ready to poor in.


I cut the side into 4 and did a section at a time giving at least 4 coats. That used the 500ml. I had the extra brew made up just in case

HAD A 25LTR bucket with some acetone ready for the gun. Had the tool to take the gun apart. I also hade a 5 ltr container of acetone so I could pour 300ml or so into the pot spray the gun into the bcuket until clean, then rip the needle frontoff the gun, drop itinto the acetone. give it a shake and put it back together again, ready for another go.

On average you can spray 2 x 500ml without cleaning the gun.

I worked out the flash time was about 20mins, heaps of time to clean, reload the gun.

Hope this helps.

gavsgonefishing
10-07-2005, 12:36 PM
a close up of the flowcoat. this is straight out of the gun onto new glass that has only been rubbed back with 60 grit. I believe the finish would of been a lot better if I sanded it back with say 120 then 240.
I hope this shows what you need..

gavsgonefishing
10-07-2005, 01:00 PM
NQ got the answer for the rod/reel problem, solved it a long time ago easily. Buy that many that adding another one (or two) is not noticed ;D

NQCairns
11-07-2005, 02:20 PM
Gav, Well!!.... arn't you spoilt [smiley=2thumbsup.gif], they are looking a bit dusty you wont wear them out that way ;D.

Thanks for the extra info, what is the depth of field in the photo? I am looking for more texture than that I think. I have seen some dorys and an Ausfisher Snelly also has his boat gelcoated fairly lumpy from memory. Do you think you could get and even more textured result with the equipment you are using, No one sensible would want to sand the finish I am thinking about thats for sure! cheers nq
PS what colour is it?

blaze
11-07-2005, 03:06 PM
use a roller nq, do a test as it may be what you are after.
Why airnt boat hulls like the finish on a golf ball, airadynamics of the dimmple affect
apperently helps the speed of the ball and maintaining straight flight.
cheers
blaze

NQCairns
11-07-2005, 05:35 PM
Thanks Blaze, worth a thought. Could I get the same texured look everywhere through many rounded curves and fair few sharp angles, what do you think? would I be pissed with texture lines running across texture lines?
Possibly a very small width roller for the tight areas and curves and a big one for the floor? Would rather roller than spray if I can get away with it.cheers nq

lordy
12-07-2005, 04:42 AM
use a roller nq, do a test as it may be what you are after.
Why airnt boat hulls like the finish on a golf ball, airadynamics of the dimmple affect
apperently helps the speed of the ball and maintaining straight flight.
cheers
blaze


Didn't the russians do that on their superfast torpedos?

http://www.newsmax.com/archives/articles/2001/4/23/220813.shtml